1987 Toyota Corolla REPLACING CAMSHAFTS

Is this a 1.5L or 1.6L engine? also see below

They almost always point up. It is a good idea to make your own visible marks or take a digital pic before disassembly

They almost always point up. It is a good idea to make your own visible marks or take a digital pic before disassembly

Jack-This engine is similar to the Camry's 3S-FE 4cyl. Let me go and hunt this 4A-F engine-I'll be back-

Hang in there -I'll get you squared away-it does look like a Chevy timing chain arrangement-

Your set up does it look like this-also do you have a seperate cam sprocket for the exhaust and intake valves.

Does yours looks like this?

What about this

Camshaft sprockets for the exhaust/intake are they messed together

On Toyota 1.6L DOHC 4AF and 4A FE engines in Corolla and Celica models, timing the camshafts also can be confusing because the cam gears have two sets of timing marks. Each set of marks has a particular purpose. One set is used to time the intake with the exhaust camshaft when they are mounted in the cylinder head, and the other set indicates the TDC position for both camshafts.

I've done this before with this engine back in the early 90's just not kicking in. Just hang in there, am giving it all I got

The knock pin for the intake camshaft-where is it located, also the exhaust cam knock pin-

The 4AFE has a removal and installation position. Once installed you rotate the cams back to the timing position using a cresent wrench on one of the square spots on the camshafts.

In other words, you put the engine to TDC #1, then you have to rotate the cams (timing belt removed) to install the service bolt in the intake cam. You take the caps/cams out. Reinstall, take the service bolt out and then rotate back to timing (service bolt hole would be at 9:00) and 2 timing marks on front of cams would be pointing at each other

Could you be more specific about this "service bolt"? The specs for the bolt are shown in the Auto Zone document - but i'm not clear on it's purpose. Aren't we bolting together two items (gear and subgear) that are already attached via a lock washer?

Lucky[/quote:5b3002dd2f]

Yes, but for me it gives me a good reference point and you would need it to remove the subgear. The service bolt is an M6 x 1.0 bolt about 15mm long. It cannot be put in at the timing position because the head casting is in the way, so you rotate the cams to install it.

If you rotate the exhaust camshaft (cresent wrench on square camshaft boss) so that the pulley mark is at 12:00, the service bolt hole is at 9:00 and the OUTSIDE (timing belt side) marks on the camshafts are pointing at each other, you are in good shape and can install the timing belt, the inside camshaft marks are installation marks not timing marks.

Otherwise:

You have to remove the intake camshaft.

Position the exhaust camshaft so that the knock pin is just above 9:00 Do this by rotating the camshaft with a cresent wrench on one of the square castings on the camshaft. There is a prior step, but the exhaust camshaft is already installed.

Mesh the intake and exhaust by matching the installing marks (dots on the inside of each camshaft).

Roll the intake cam into position, install bearing caps. I tighten from center out in 1/4 turn increments.

Remove service bolt and then rotate the camshafts into timing position with a cresent wrench on the square boss of the exhaust camshaft (Haynes manual does not specifically say this that I can find)
Timing position would be the service bolt hole at 9:00, the timing marks on the FRONT (not inside) of the camshafts would be pointing at each other, and the hole in the timing belt pulley would be at 12:00. Then you can install the timing belt, just make sure the lower belt cog timing mark is pointing at timing mark on the oil pump.

This make sense?