1990 Subaru Loyale 1990 Loyale stalls when warm.

JSO2897

MEMBER
1990 SUBARU LOYALE
4 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
150,000 MILES

My 1990 Loyale (1.8 L. Fuel Injected, no turbo)
Starts to cut out and stall when it has been driven for a while at full operating temp. When accelerating, esp. At speeds of over 15-20 mph.
After clearing the codes, it shows only six rapid flashes with the connectors not connected - and the green history connectors - same story.
The regular (black) connectors give four codes 11, 13, 24, and 34. This is even after clearing the codes repeatedly - and the check engine light doesn't go on. This is driving me nuts.
Mass airflow sensor and EGR solenoid are less than two years old.

3 Replies

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

Hi jso2897,

Thank you for the donation.

Code 11 = Crank Angle Sensor, incorporated into distributor.

Code 13 = TDC sensor.

Code 24 = Air Control Valve.

Code 34 = EGR valve Solenoid.

With so many sensors showing a fault at the same time, the most likely fault would be a loose or contaminated connector somewhere between engine and ECU.

The other possibility would be a faulty ECU.

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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 9:59 AM

JSO2897

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3 POSTS

Well, that makes sense. But what doesn't, under that scenario, is the performance problem that only manifests at warm temps, ad after lengthy driving. Another suggestion I've been given is that the valves might be fouled - and I'll try the cheap fixes for that, since it's due for them anyway - but, failing that, I think it's probably junkyard time. It's getting really hard to find parts for this car - and an ECU is gonna cost plenty, even used.
I guess I should own a cheap voltmeter anyhow, so I suppose I could pick one up and go through the wiring.
I don't relish the thought.
Anyway - thanks for your advice!

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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 10:15 AM

JSO2897

MEMBER
3 POSTS

A couple of things I didn't mention - this was not read out running, but with the ignition on - not running. That may explain the first two codes.
The other two, though, make me suspect that something is screwy, like you suggested - the GRE solenoid is almost new, and the air control valve physically tests good. (Opens, shuts when supposed to - disconnecting drops idle when cold, not when hot)

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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 10:23 AM