Stalling out when put in gear

Tiny
MCAVOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Car runs fine in park dies as soon as I put it into drive or reverse unless I keep gas going to it. I'm hoping it's not something that involves pulling tranny. I read it could be a crack in air duct hose, where is it and how do I check or is this most likely not the problem?

Ty for assistance will be super appreciated trying to get car run to sell it will make a donation if u can help fix it and get it sold
Friday, November 7th, 2014 AT 12:22 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
Yep the air intake boot and tube can cause it to stall when in gear here is a guide to help you see what you are looking for.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-an-air-intake-boot

Here is a guide that can help as well which shows the IAC causing the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Was the battery recently disconnected or run down? If it was, the Engine Computer has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals?

Or is this a sudden jerk and the car stalls immediately? Meaning the torque converter has fallen apart and needs replacement. This means removing the transmission.

Please let us know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+4
Friday, November 7th, 2014 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
MCAVOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes battery was just replaced I will try it and let you know if that works. Also I found a small tear in the intake boot so I have a new one coming.

The neutral symbol was also blinking. The car runs after putting more fluid I'm and doing like you said but jerks when put in drive and neutral light still blinking, I read this is a fail safe mode. So is it torque converter?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+7
Friday, November 7th, 2014 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
Mitsubishi and Chrysler have a lot in common, and this is one of those things. Now you're into something I'm not familiar with. Chrysler's "limp mode" is to default to second gear and stay there. That pertains to the transmission. As far as how they indicate that to you is different on various models. On older cars the Check Engine light turned on and the diagnostic fault code was # 700 which just meant there was another diagnostic fault code stored in the Transmission Computer.

There isn't much that can go wrong with a torque converter, and of the hundreds of potential fault codes, only a few relate to it. Typical failures include fluid leakage, a vibration at highway speed, and a failure of the clutch to lock up. The clutch only locks up above about 45 mph and in fourth, and maybe third gear, and only after the engine is warmed up. If you have a tachometer on the dash, you can verify the lockup clutch is working by tapping the brake pedal. With the engine warmed up, drive at highway speed, and hold the accelerator pedal perfectly steady. Tap the brake pedal momentarily with your left foot. You should see engine speed pick up about 200 rpm, then drop back down a couple of seconds later. If you don't have a tach., you can usually hear the increase in engine speed too.

If there is a problem with the transmission, you'll need to connect a scanner to read the fault code(s). Sometimes you can get an idea of what kind of problem there is by observing when it goes to limp mode, or fail safe mode. If you start the engine, shift into "drive", and it starts out in second gear right away, (at least for Chrysler products), it's usually electrical in nature and most commonly due to a failed sensor. If it starts out in first gear like it's supposed to, then bangs back to second gear during or right after a shift, it's usually due to slippage in a clutch pack.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back

Cheers
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 7th, 2014 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
MCAVOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
It's having all symptoms u listed for torque converter. Starts in third gear.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Sunday, November 9th, 2014 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
I'm not clear in your reply. I said, "Typical failures include fluid leakage, a vibration at highway speed, and a failure of the clutch to lock up". You said yours starts out in a high gear, and I assume it stays there. That would be limp mode or fail-safe mode. Limp mode is the result of a problem, not the cause of it. You need to have a mechanic connect a scanner to read the fault codes in the Transmission Computer to see which circuit or system needs further diagnosis.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-2
Monday, November 10th, 2014 AT 2:11 AM
Tiny
MCAVOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Oh ok thanks a bunch, think I just misinterpreted. Have a buddy coming today with a scanner & I'll post the codes, thanks again for your help. Sorry my responses aren't very elaborate, I'm posting from my phone.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Monday, November 10th, 2014 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
MCAVOY85
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ran the scan says p0740 torque converter clutch.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, November 13th, 2014 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
That tells you the circuit that needs further diagnosis. You might try activating the clutch with the scanner if it gives you that option. I'm not sure how that would relate to engine stalling. Normally the solenoid is open or there's a corroded terminal in a connector, and those lead to the clutch not locking up at highway speed.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, November 14th, 2014 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
DAKOTA DELAGARZA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Exact same thing happens on my 02 Infiniti g20. Stopped at a light and it tried to die, oil pressure light came on. I pulled immediately into a gas station and shut it off. Checked oil and oil level was good. Tried to start it, and it came right on. Od off light flashes 16 times. Put car in reverse and it dies. Ses came on right when this happened, throwing 0741 code. Haven't tried to drive it in d. Just know it died in reverse, and was afraid to do more damage.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Saturday, February 23rd, 2019 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
Hi DAKOTA DELAGARZA. Welcome to the site. Please start a new question specific to your vehicle. This was a private conversation between two people. As such, none of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to reply. That won't get you the help you need and will do you a disservice. I'm not familiar with your car model too, so I'm not the best choice to help you. Here's the link to post your question. Just copy and paste it so you don't have to type it all over again.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Please be sure to list the engine size, mileage, transmission type, and all other pertinent information as we use that when making generalizations and when deciding on the best suspects for a problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Saturday, February 23rd, 2019 AT 8:51 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links