Oil Pump Replacement Instructions

Tiny
KEVLIN94
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
I have changed the oil pump for a new one.

When installing the new oil pump

1. Does the new pump need to be primed?
2. If so, how do you prime the pump on a 3.8 Liter when the pump is located on the inside of the timing chain cover?

Monday, November 2nd, 2015 AT 9:15 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Fill the rotor cavity with oil prior to putting cover on or dump down hole where pickup connects then spin pump to prime. HEre are the instructions on how to replace the oil pump in your car. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2015 AT 12:35 PM
Tiny
TERRYMOORE12
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 89,000 MILES
How do I get the plug out of the pressure relief valve for the oil pump? The pressure relief valve on a 2007 jeep is mounted in the timing chain cover that seems to be pressed in I am changing the engine and the new oil pump came with a new pressure relief valve with direction to install it do I need some special tool to remove the existing one the trouble is getting the cap off without doing any damage to timing chain cover installing the new one should not be any problem
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,840 POSTS
Hello,

Here is a look at the pump and it seems like the oil pressure valve is located inside the cover. (Diagram below)

Im not seeing any external plug.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERRYMOORE12
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 89,000 MILES
I'm replacing the oil pump, pressure relief valve, spring, and the cup plug. On a 2007 jeep wrangler with a 3.8 engine the pressure relief valve is located in the timing chain cover and seems to be pressed in are there a special tool for removal
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
I have access to "mitchell i"

i screen shot the procedure.I also moved their logo into the shot as it came from "mitchell i"

there were 2 diagrams. One shows the spring in 1st. The other shows it last?

So. I reckon you need to be careful during removal to install it back, just as it came out.I scanned over some of the material.I have no clue why they show the spring in different positions

they are showing drilling a hole in the cap and using a screw (pointed, like a wood screw) and pliers.I probably would have used my "slide hammer" like I do removing small freeze plugs

fig 181 is the 1st pic

fig 182 is the 2nd

screenshot is 3rd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEITH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I have a 2000 jeep wrangler with 130,000 miles. I am having oil pressure problems. When driving the oil pressure is fine but at a stop it drops to 0. I have had the oil pump replaced twice thinking it was a bad oil pump. The gauge, senser, and oil and filer have all been changed. I can't seem to find anyone that can figure out what the problem seems to be. I have has the cam bearings and rods checked the mechanic said the engine looks brand new on the inside. Please help
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,395 POSTS
This is a good one. You've already changed everything I would have recommended. How log has this been going on? (Sounds like a song), but I'm serious. Has the engine ever been grossly overheated? Have you screwed a regular pressure gauge in place of the sending unit and checked pressure? Please advise.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEITH
  • MEMBER
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Yes they did hook up a gauge in place of that. It has not been extremly overheated I did have a problem with it getting hot over the summer and finally got that problem fixed with a new thermostat (or two).
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
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OK, you've already checked everything I would suggest. Instincts tell me you have a crack in an oil passage somewhere, probably in the valve lifter galley somewhere. Finding it will tough and messy. If I'm correct, basically, the block is shot. I can't think of anything else it could be. The only other option, which I'm sure you've already done, is go to a "high volume" oil pump, but even that may only help a little.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEITH
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Wow it is hard to believe that is the outcome. If by chance it did get grossly overheated could that be a different cause for the problem. I am not loosing oil and there is no water in my oil.I am just hoping that it is something else other than that. The oil pressure does not drop until the engine is warmed up I am assuming because the oil get warm and thins out.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,395 POSTS
Yes, the oil will thin out as it warms, BUT, a crack may open up a little also. Also, if there is a crack in the lifter area, you won't lose any oil, it will just drop back into the pan. And, there's no water jacket there so you won't have a "water in oil" problem. PLEASE, keep in mind, I'm not saying this is definatly your problem. It's just a viable option. With all you've done so far, I can't think of anything else. You're surely welcome to get another opinion. I have to admit, I've only seen this once before and that was in a Buick 231 V6 that was overheated so bad, it melted the valve seals.
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2019 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)

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