1993 Oldsmobile 88 Idle too high

The brakes are a little squishy-replaced master cylinder when first bought 100000 ago. Don't know how to use multi meter--should I buy one or just borrow?

Got the meter! Could use some help with details. I unplug the (tps) and touch which of three prongs? What setting? And what readings on the meter is good/bad? I'm thinking the part behind the master cylinder is sucking air--what needs replacing in this old car then? Can donate more if needed. How do I get these messages posted to my forum in this website instead of just my e-mail/--Chuck.

[quote="racefan966"]OK first do not unplug it ok. You will need a paper clip and you will use that paper clip to back probe down the connector and get contact with the wire terminal ok. Now you will set you meter to the 20 volt scale and hook the red to the paper clip and the black to a good ground or neg side of battery ok.
So back probe the Dark Blue wire and hook up you volt meter and turn the key on engine off the volt meter should read.5 to 1 volt with the throttle closed ok. Now slowly lift the throttle and you should see the voltage slowly and steadly increase with no drops or glitches, when you get to wide open throttle it should read 4.5 to 5 volts. If this tests good then turn the key off and unhook your meter and remove the paper clip.
Now if there is not problem here then check the coolant temp sensor it should be on or near the back left (drivers) side of the engine. It will be a two wire plug in to it. Now unplug this and set you meter to ohms (set at 200k) and touch the wires to the terminals on the sensor itself (not the wire harness)
***Thanx--the tps went up(from just below 1.0) to just below 4 volts at max. The cool. Temp. Sensor showed nothing(cold) @0.5, 50, or 250 mA settings. At the 1K setting it swung to peg at zero (I knew I had contact--; I tried reversing leads also.) It's a $13 part. Soon to replace--right?
Chuck

Sorry it took awhile-finally got both the temp sensor AND the coolant temperature switch replaced! Idle still too high but does seem better.

Thanx again--the ohms on my crap meter only reads in "x1k" which shows around 50 from A to B, the rest don't show. But I just bought another 1993 olds 98 reagency with the exact same motor and I'm getting the same reading. Since I first had the idle valve replaced when all this started- I'm going to assume it was and it is good. All other vacuum lines look OK. Chuck

This is what I found on my 93 Olds. After the car starts as I reved it up the idle stayed at a very high idle. After it warmed up I had to turn off the engine and re start it. Then it would idle fine.
Well what I found is that the Throttle position sensor would not return back to the normal idle position. The spring lever that returns the sensor back to the normal position was coated with dirty oil. When it was cold this old dirty oil coated lever would stick and make the engine idle very high. After the engine warmed up this old dirty oil would loosen up and the lever would return back to the normal idle position.
I sprayed the lever with a choke cleaner, this remover the old dirty oil and now the lever moves freely. Now it runs Great in the cold weather.
Bill