Engine has low power?

Tiny
GILLIANLEW
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 940,000 MILES
When barely pushing the gas, has high rpm's. What could I do to troubleshoot? When at a stop, my car is sluggish getting going. When putting slight pressure on the gas, the rpm's go to 4 and stay between there and 5 no matter what speed I am going. Also the car does not seam to be changing gears. What could possibly be the problem? Thanks
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2012 AT 1:10 PM

37 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This sounds like the car is going into limp mode which could be due to a dirty throttle body these guides should help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2012 AT 1:52 PM
Tiny
RACOSTA0209
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have the exact same problem in a Nissan Sentra 2001 1.8L with 105K miles. I parked the car running just fine and an hour later when I came back and started it, I immediately noticed something was not right; during the trip I found all the same problems described in the question. Please let me know if you already found the source of this issue. Thanks.
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Tuesday, October 2nd, 2012 AT 2:34 AM
Tiny
ROBERTWALLACE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My Sentra has done this twice. Basically it is the battery charge. The transmission does not have sufficient volts/amps to control the solenoids and the transmission starts and stays in 2nd gear (limp mode). Hence the sluggishness from a stop. Have your battery load checked. 2001 Sentra GXE w/434000 original miles on the original engine.
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Thursday, October 4th, 2012 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
PAMAS64
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
Hi. I just bought this car. I didn't realize it was having an acceleration problem. If I'm driving on the city streets, 30-40 mph, it's great. But accelerating onto the highway or going up any hills causes it to lose power. Accelerating to the highway, it has trouble going to 40mph. It seems to get stuck in 2nd and then getting it to 3rd is hard. Even if you have the gas pedal down, it just has a really hard time. I just had it in a shop and they noticed that the plugs were not gauged correctly and corrected all the spark plugs, but it didn't seem to make it any better. Any ideas?
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Hello
Thanks for the donation.

There is a recall on your vehicle which includes a symptom you are encountering. Please talk to your local Nissan dealer about the recall. Give them your VIN to see if your vehicle is covered under warranty. Below is the recall information.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_108.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname2_37.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname3_15.jpg



After having the recall fixed, or if this recall does not include your VIN, just reply here and I will follow up with other diagnosis of the issue.

Hope this helps..
Thanks for using 2carpros.com!
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIVER76
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2002 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 14,000 MILES
I have a 02 Sentra w/140,000 miles. About 2 months ago I began to feel a slight inconsistency while accelerating & when I came off the gas. The problem has worsened severely. My vehicle now eats gas, has severe power loss & has allot of trouble climbing hills. The car cannot be driven at this point. The vehicle idles perfectly & the problem only happens when the vehicle is being driven. We have checked the catalytic converter & it's fine, checked all hoses for leaks, checked the fresh air intake, & air filter. No problems found there. My question is what could this be? I took it to my local Nissan dealership to have it diagnosed but what they advised as the problem doesn't make to much sense & the price is outrageous for the repairs over $1,000.00. What could the problem be? We also replaced the spark plugs in Dec of 09 & they are needing to be replaced again. Thanks
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
Hello diver76

Welcome to 2carpros. Com

Check your spark plugs.

A single fouled spark plug is bad news because it can kill up to 25% of a four cylinder engines power
output. It is like riding a horse with a broken leg. A fouled plug will also cause a big increase in fuel consumption and emissions.
You changed the spark plugs in December, if there are needing to be replaced again, we should find the cause.
Fouling can be a problem if an engine uses oil. Worn valve guide seals and guides can allow oil to be sucked down the guides and into the combustion chamber. A heavy buildup of thick black deposits on the plug and intake valve
would indicate such a problem. Worn or broken rings, or damage to the cylinder wall can also allow oil to enter the combustion chamber and form ash deposits on the plugs.
If your engine is not using lot of oil then the cause must be something else.
Extensive idling and/or short trip stop and go driving can also lead to a rapid buildup of normal fuel deposits. This occurs because the plugs never get hot enough to burn off the deposits, something which plugs are designed to do or a powdery black deposits on the plugs can occur from "carbon fouling." The underlying cause here is a rich fuel mixture. The problem might be a leaky injector, or a dead oxygen sensor or coolant sensor that prevents the engine control system from going into closed loop and leaning out the fuel mixture.
If this does not answer your concern or If you have engine code please provide it, if no code let me know
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIVER76
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I had plugs looked at yesterday, there ok & there is no carbon build & no oil consumption. I went based on the dealership's advice. I don't have a miss it is power loss. We checked the MAS, & a few other sensor by testing them with a ohm meter. What we did check seemed ok. When we started yesterday to trouble shoot it was giving us a code P0128 (Coolant Thermostat). After checking some things & went for a test drive the we checked codes again & now have no codes but do still have the problem. To help with what we have found is the car runs better while very cold. After just a  to mile the problem appears. I hope that's enough information. If you need specifics please let us know so we can help you out. I want to share with you what the Nissan dealership said was wrong with my car but I want to hear everything you think it could be first. I hope you understand. Everyone I have talked to said that what the dealership said needed to be fixed is just outrageous & crazy. Thanks again for your time & help.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
Hello diver76

Thank you for providing more information.

The code P0128 means that the engine's
PCM detected that the engine has not reached the required temperature level within a specified amount of time after starting the engine. The intent of the P0128 code is to indicate a faulty thermostat. Similar codes: P0125

In determining the engine did not reach a "normal" temperature, it takes into account the length of time the vehicle has been running, the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor reading, the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor reading, and the speed of the vehicle.
Depending on the nature of the fault, the lamp may come on and go off, remain on continuously or flash. Some types of intermittent faults will make the lamp come on only while the fault is occurring. When the fault goes away, the lamp goes off. Other types of problems will turn the light on, and it will remain on until the fault is diagnosed and repaired.
Here is the list of things to check:

Verify coolant strength & level
Verify proper cooling fan operation (check if it's running more than it should). Replace if necessary.
Verify proper engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.
Verify proper intake air temperature (IAT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.
If the above items check out good, replace the thermostat
Your vehicle is a Nissan The ECM may need to be reprogrammed to correct the P0128 code.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIVER76
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok, here's what the dealer ship said was wrong. My timing chain was severly worn & needed replacement. Along with that the tensioner, guide, & so forth. What's your take on this? Not sure where to turn. Everyone is just looking at the car & scratching there head!
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
Hello diver76

if timing chain is lose, you will hear some ticking, rattling noise while engine is running.
Loss of engine power have something to do with the code p0128.
Dealer knows what noise is for which defective part.
He may be right, or he may be wrong.
Anything about replacing timing chain comes as a sett.
That involves replacing other parts that work together with the defective part just to do a good job.
The loss of power have something to do with the code p0128, remember that. Lose timing chain will make some noise.
If you hear ticking, rattling noise than the dealer maybe right. The dealer may be right also if timing may get bad in the nearest future or base on" timing chain should be replace every 100.000 miles as preventive maintenance", then it does not solve the problem for which the engine is losing power.
That should be optional not because there is 140.000 on your vehicle.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIVER76
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
There is no rattling my engine is quiet & idles great Just the loss of power. I changed out the Coolant Temperature Sensor & I still have the problem now what? Is that the part you wer etalking about? Thanks
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG ESTEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2002 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
Unless I turn on a bunch of accessories such as rear defrost, max air, radio and headlights. Even with all accessories on it loses a little power but is drivable. The battery and alternator have both been tested and are fine.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
I gave you a list of sensors to check. You should also contact your dealer about reprogramming the computer.
There was TSB about reprogramming the pcm when the code p0128 is shown for Nissan
you can do this as last result.
Before that, did you check the thermostat? The IAT?
Check those and get back to the dealer.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

This could be from a clogged catalytic converter. You can get a back pressure gauge at a parts store and insert it where the O2 sensor is located. It will measure the back pressure. Anything above 1.2 pounds indicates the catalytic converter is clogged and the catalytic converter needs to be replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Roy
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG ESTEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
But it drives okay when I run all my accessories. So I was thinking if it was that catalytic converter wouldn't I still have the same issue as when I'm not using a bunch of electrical accessories. Is it possible to be a bad cam sensor or ground somewhere?
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I doubt it at all.

You could check the voltage at the battery with it running but I doubt voltage has any effect on this. If it did, you would have starting issues which you have not indicated.

Roy
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG ESTEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Voltage is fine with it off and running the battery and alternator are good.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
What is the voltage? Can you give me the number?

I still think you need to check the catalytic converter.

Roy
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG ESTEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
When the engine is off 12.6v.
When running it's 14.4v.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)

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