Motor blows the seal on the oil filter

Tiny
MARK BALTUSIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
I drove the van 90 miles the previous day with no problems. The next day I started the motor. Oil pressure gauge went right up to maximum and blew the seal on the oil filter. I drained the remaining oil and installed a new oil filter. On start up, same thing happened. Seal on the oil filter blew out and I shut the motor down immediately. Obviously I have a clog in the system which I am going to have to locate. If I had a diagram of the oil circuit, it would help me determine where to start looking. I am hoping it will be external in the cooler or the cooler lines. Obviously the oil pump and pressure gauge are working. I am going to star with seeing if oil will pass through the cooler of the lines. If the cooler and the lines are clear, this is not going to be an easy one to find. Any suggestions on what or where to start looking. I could really use some help and luck on this one.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mark B.
Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 8:36 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Either you got cheap filters or the pressure valve has stuck in the oil pump. That is in the pan. You can try a Purolator, wix or napa or AC but if those blow as well then you'll probably need a new pump unless a bearing has spun in the motor. An oil diagram won't help
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
MARK BALTUSIS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hmac300 Thank You for your message.
I have always used Fram Oil Filters without any problems. I just was looking to see where in the oil circuit the pressure gauge was. If it was before or after the filter. Your explanation makes sense but it is kind of weird how it just happened so quickly a day after driving with normal pressure indicated on the gauge the day before. I wouldn't have thought that oil pressure at idle, could go so high even with the OPRV being clogged or jammed closed. The gauge did not hesitate to off the scale when I started it after the new oil and filter replacement. I did, as usual, fill the oil filter before I installed it. So now my understanding is that the OPRV works all the time and not just when the engine is in high RPMs or when the oil is cold.
Correct?
Mark B.
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The regulator valve works all the time. I don't use Fram because they are junk and have junk inards. The oil pressure sender or gauge sender is by the dist. You have either a stuck valve closed or like I said a bearing has spun and is blocking one of the oil pressure holes. It could be something else like a blockage but I think that is pretty unlikely unless something has failed.
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
MARK BALTUSIS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank again.
You explanation of the stuck pressure relief valve seems like the most likely suspect. The pressure should have been released even if there was blockage. It did peg the needle and it blew the seal on the filter almost instantly. The pan does not appear to be too difficult to remove. My Chilton's book is a little off from the model type oil pan I have (cast aluminium). The only thing that seems to be in the way are the lines to the oil cooler but that is just a little more time and not too difficult. It will have to sit until Monday and I will start in on it. Crank timing mark set to the 6 o'clock position fro pan clearance during removal. The book says remove the lower bell housing but I don believe I do that on this model. Starter appears it has to come out as well but again just some extra time and not to difficult.
Thanks again.
Mark B.
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
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While you are at it you might want to replace the oil filter by pass valve it's right above oil filter. See pics
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015 AT 4:56 PM

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