1998 Mitsubishi FTO Repair Question
1998 Mitsubishi FTO FTO differential problem i think
1998 Mitsubishi FTO 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 100000 miles
Hi i really want to get to the bottom of this and get some experts opinion,
I have an FTO with LSD, upon driving the car for about 10minutes on full lock i get a kind of grind grind noise, suspect CV's, dnt think so, All i can describe it as is the steering fights back also a bit, like the Diff is slipping, its kind of a slight jerk jerk resistance on the wheel on full lock while making the grinding noise.
Anyideas waht this could be and maybe what part of the diff would cause this grinding on full lock but also a bit of slip when drving harder?
Thank you in advance!
what modle car is this I need to know to help you better
Hi its an "FTO GpvR Aero" with LSD
As i said it only starts to happen after about 10 minutes of driving, then when your at or very near fulllock you can hear a "urrr urrr urr" noise,
The stearing almost fights back a bit when say your existing a roundabout/traffic circle.
The sliping / fighting back part feels like the steering wheels slips slightly, I would like to narrow this problem down.
most of the time you get that noise from the wheel/hub bearings on eather side of car but I need to ask have you changed the size of tires?
This noise has been going on for about a year, i have not changed the tyres but my friend who previously had it did, its running on 17's and 42 profile wheels, i think it had larger tyres on it at one stage, 45's,
the standard was 16's on this car but i dnt know of anyone else having this problem, i think the camber was adjusted aswell (properly a good while back),
I must say wear on the wheels is completely even and the steering is dead on.
P.S, there most FTO's i know run on 17's now wihtout a problem, i wouldnt say the wheels are oversized?
ok now in your driveway turn it lock to lock and get under car and see if the tires are touching any part of the car or even close to touching
Ok as stated it only happens after i have been driving for about 10 minutes on full lock straight away no noise or "fight back" will come, its like its when the engine / transmission heats up,
This rules out simple rubbing as it does not occur straight away as i said after the car warms up almost.
My friend is a trainee Mechanic and is not sure but really thinks its the Diff! im asking this question as you professionals may know or anyone else may had have the experience with a problem like this.
Ill try and describe the traits of the problem again
1) After driving for ten minutes problem arrises
1.1) On full lock the cars makes a "urrr urr urr sound"
1.2) minor twitches on the steering wheel, if i was going around a sharp corner the steering would almost fight back abit, like it slips slightly then returns to normal, slips slightly and return to normal, when it slips i would get slight feedback through the steering wheel.
Conclusion? = can the diff heat up and start slipping and cause noise on turning?? I would love to here your 2cents, I will also try and oil change on the gearbox as this also contains the diff oil.
ok knowing it starts after it warms up it's sounding alot like the power steering pump or power steering gear box/rackand pinoin going out
Thanks for the reply, yes only after things heat up, even on cold days i would notice a slight improvement and longer delay before it acted up, between 5-10 minutes,
I would have thought because of the slipping it was the steering, but surely that could make the noise?,
It there any possibility it could be the Diff?
it could be the cv joints in front axle
Ye they are prone to this problem, but it doesnt sound like it?, would the CV cause sliping on fool lock also??
I have checked the boots and cannot see any tears they look mint,
Is it easy to remove CV casing and check?,
Because of the slipping i just don't know whats wrong and my friend says the noise i described doesnt sound like CV's