no starter operation what up?

The starter does its thing for a few seconds, then it just sits there until the next time you want to start the engine. How do you think that can cause the engine to stall? What you're describing is typical of a failed charging system. Start by measuring the battery voltage. If it is 12.6 volts, it's fully-charged. If it's closer to 12.2 volts it's good but discharged. Charge it at a slow rate, then have the charging system tested. If you find it's near 11 volts it has a shorted cell and must be replaced. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

I just installed a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel in a 1998 Honda Civic with a 5 speed. It will not start. The lights work. There is no draw on the battery when I turn the key. The lights do not dim. Battery is good. Any ideas?

Installed new clutch
All other battery functions seem to work
acts like a bad neutral safety switch
cranked OK before clutch change

Clutch switch is on top of the clutch pedal. Check it for continuity.
Did you connect the solenoid and main power wires? Do they both have power at the right times?

I will check the switch for continuity. The starter soleniod? both wires were connected at the same time. Bad soleniod?

At the same time or place? It sounds like either a bad clutch safety or bad solenoid. MAYBE a bad starter. Have someone depress the clutch and turn the key to RUN (not start) and run a hot wire to tap the solenoid with. See what happens.

I've replaced the main relay and accessory switch also the ignition switch. And still wont turn over Ive checked all the fuses in the car and the engine bay. getting power to starter ect.

First charge and test your battery and all cable connections. Then have a helper try to start it while you test for power arriving on the small wire at the starter. If you are getting power at that wire, you have a bad starter.

Car won't start at all no click , took battery in for testing and was told dead needed new one. Purchased new battery but still no start not even a click . Was told main relay could be problem , the car was jumped started a few months ago but would not start after shutting off.

Hi derek704,

When no clicks are present, it could be a dislodged starter solenoid sire, a faulty starter, relay, clutch pedal switch or ignition switch.

Check the starter solenoid wire for proper connections and if good, disconnect it. Use a remote wire to apply battery voltage to the starter solenoid and if it works, the starter is good

Tes for battery voltage at starter solenoid wire with key in the START position.

At bottom of post there is a link " First Things To Check". Click it for more information on how to go about diagnosing.

Thanks for the info. I just happen to check the main battery fuse and it was blown but I'm sure there has to be a reason it blew the fuse. No repairs have been done due to being out of town.

If jump starting was performed, reversed connections of the jumper cables would cause the main fuse to blow.

I have a 1991 honda civic lx 1.5, 197xxx miles.
This first started while driving - car acted like it was out of gas. then the rpm's were jumping all over. If I used my signal, I could hear it through the radio. Then the radio quit working. After getting home, I tried starting it, I had to jump it to start - then everything seemed fine. After a couple of minutes, none of the lights worked, rpm, spedometer, radio - everything electric quit. Then the car died. I jumped it again - started right up. died after 20 seconds. Now engine will not even turn over. There is nothing when I turn the key. Not even sure what to check. Please help!

[quote:f816017caf="faeryangel"]I have a 1991 honda civic lx 1.5, 197xxx miles.
This first started while driving - car acted like it was out of gas. then the rpm's were jumping all over. If I used my signal, I could hear it through the radio. Then the radio quit working. After getting home, I tried starting it, I had to jump it to start - then everything seemed fine. After a couple of minutes, none of the lights worked, rpm, spedometer, radio - everything electric quit. Then the car died. I jumped it again - started right up. died after 20 seconds. Now engine will not even turn over. There is nothing when I turn the key. Not even sure what to check. Please help![/quote:f816017caf]

Could be the alternator not putting out or the battery is not taking the charge-I'll check the alternator 1st.

I have an 89 Civic with 175K. One morning it started up just fine and then when I stopped at the convenience store 3 min down the road it would no longer start and it didn't turn over. Attempts to jump start it failed. The dash lights, radio, etc... still came on. I took it to a shop and they replaced the alternator and mentioned my battery was only ok. I took it home, next morning it wouldn't turn over again. I attempted to jump it without luck and the mechanic from the shop drove over with his jump box and on his third try finally got it jumped. That night I took it in and the battery tested good. The car started fine for two days and then yesterday evening it decided to not turnover again. Thoughts?

Thank You

People confuse me with their use of "turnover" and I assume that means the car engine turns with the starter but it does not catch and run. I would check the EFI relay. Electronic Fuel Injection relay under the dash on the driver side.

By turnover I mean that when the key is turned nothing happens except a few of the dash lights go on which is normal. Engine makes no sound and you can't hear it cranking. Hopefully that helps. If that is the same assumption you were working with sorry.

Your problem could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery terminal. I would make sure they are clean as in brushed with a terminal cleaner and tightened down snuggly. If the terminals are not in good shape replace them. Make sure the grounds are all clean and tight. Follow the positive battery cable and check connections to the starter. After that it is a thought to have the starter checked out.

i have a 1996 honda civic with a16y8 engine, with 203,642 miles on it. my problem is this. i just tuned up my car you know wire,plugs,cap,rotor, and air filter. it ran perfect right after. than later that same day i got in and crack her up with no problem drove off, then before i could get down the block it cuts off and it would not start, but it would crank, and it blew my fuses to my inteior lights and my parking lights. i replaced all the blown fuses checked all my relays and still will not start up so i check for fire from my wires and no spark. i did alittle truoble shooting and figured it was my ICM replaced it and still no spark. could you please help me out? i dont know what else i could do.

I ran into a weird problem with one of these. The ignition wires would pop off after replacing them. This is a long shot, but make sure each one is seated.

Pull the coil off and look for any signs of overheating, if questionable, replace it. Make sure you are not using bosch plugs on these. IF your plugs were worn badly, it would support the coil as your problem.

Use a tester on the coil. Does the coil have 12volts of power to it? If so, and nothing is going to the plug wires replace the coil. It could be you have lost a crank or cam position sensor.

occasionally start right away. Starter and battery are almost brand new.

When turning key to ignition position, usually the starter immediately cranks and car starts.

When the car doesn't start, the fuel pump primes and then the starter won't kick in. If you hold the key in the ignition for a bit, after a few seconds the starter kicks in. It seems to be gradually getting worse however.

Some other issues I noticed which I was wondering if it was related is that when the car is cold, I noticed the turn signals take a second to turn on as well as headlights. Could this be a relay issue?

I suspect the starter switch.

By starter switch I assume you mean the ignition switch? Anyway to easily test if it is on it's way out?

Yes there is but I don't have a manual on that model. The maintenance manual will walk you through the steps using a ohm meter. It analyzes all the positions of the switch. I suspect the switch because you are telling me the starter is almost new. Normally I would suspect that first.

Thanks. Yes I believe the FSM outlines it and I have it. Only problem is that since it's an occasional problem, chances are when it happens, even if I jump up and get my volt meter, it will be gone when I check it.

Since I plan to sell the car but would like to take care of the problem, I wonder what are the few things I can switch out and feel comfortable that the problem will be gone and not have a grumpy buyer come back yelling at me...

I was hoping not to replace the ignition switch since they are so expensive...but if I must, I will. Other items I was wondering could cause it is:
- clutch interlock switch
- main relay (is it possible?)