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Engine won't start?

Tiny
WOSBABY
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
Ok, this has my mechanic stumped. My Honda has been in the shop for over a month with this problem. Upon attempting to start the car, the motor will turn over, but not run. My mechanic informed me the car is not getting any spark. We have changed out everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, that would cause spark, to no avail. We've even put in several new computers, 2 new distributors, new main relay, new O2 sensor, new alternator, new plubs and wires, new battery, etc. Nothing works. To top it all off, no codes are showing up on the diagnostics check.
Does anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this problem?
I am desperate, as I have not been able to work without my car. Any help given is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006 AT 10:02 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,753 POSTS
You have absolutely no spark at all? The coil was replaced? This should be simple by starting with the originator of the spark and working forward. Sensors like the cam and crank or TDC sensors only assist in the timing of the spark. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
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No, no spark at all. And everything that has to do with spark has been replaced, including but not limited to, replacing the timing belt/resetting timing/changing water pump and replacing the computer.
A lot of the sensors are located within the distributor, which has been replaced with 2 different ones (new, not rebuilt- first one tested bad, second one tested good).
We're stumped!
By the way, this is a 4 cyl. Auto, if that helps any.
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
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There is a test for the coil but basically the coil I think is in the distributor or is yours external? Anyway, does it get the voltage as it should?
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
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Yes, the coil is in the distributor, and it tests fine.
I am receiving the necessary voltage, as well.
This certainly is a thinker, isn't it?
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Thursday, November 23rd, 2006 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
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How can the coil test fine when the voltage in is 12 volt and there should be an output to the distributor? I say it points to the coil.
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Thursday, November 23rd, 2006 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
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I don't know, but after talking again with my mechanic, he still assures me the coil is located within the distributor. He has tested everything that has to do with spark, and found nothing. Everything is testing okay.
We're both stumped.
Please keep those ideas coming. We're bound to hit on it, yet!
Thanks!
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Friday, November 24th, 2006 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
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I am not trying to knock your mechanic but is it not possible that he is more of an expert with mechanical and not electrical? Once the coil has power it should be belting out plenty of juice to spark the plugs and get that car running.

Now another thought, there is another part of the distributor that is responsible for telling the coil to do its job.
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Friday, November 24th, 2006 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
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I'll talk to him about the coil again. Could be he missed something.
What is the other part of the distributor that tells the coil to do its job, that you were mentioning?
And wouldn't it have been changed out with the distributor, when we put a new one in?
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Friday, November 24th, 2006 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
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Yes it should have. It actually replaces the old points that a distrbutor had in it that opened and closed to give just the right amount of spark to the cylinder. This is now an electrical component in the distributor.
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Friday, November 24th, 2006 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
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Ok. But if the whole distributor was replaced, and the new coil in it tested fine, would the coil still be the problem? Or may there be something electrical leading to the distributor that could be causing it?
Any electrical components within the distributor were replaced when we put the new distributor in.
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Saturday, November 25th, 2006 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
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That distributor should break current and the coil should be getting current to jump out with the high voltage spark.
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Saturday, November 25th, 2006 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
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I'll print this out and take it to my mechanic, to recheck the things you are mentioning. He knows a lot more of the jargon than I do! Lol
I'll let you know what he says about it. Hopefully he can use this to correct the problem.
Thanks so much for your reponse!
Are there any other ideas you may have, just in case?
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Sunday, November 26th, 2006 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
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Ok. Just talked again to the mechanic. He informed me that we are getting current to the coil, and current to the distributor. What we are NOT getting however, is the break of current you were referring to.
Any ideas on what would cause this?
I appreciate your replies. It helps to know someone else is thinking on this same issue!
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Monday, November 27th, 2006 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
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With further investigation, I belive that you will find a failed sensor. I can't point you to the exact one but I suspect the crankshaft/TDC sensor. Another would be the camshaft sensor. One of those will be the culprit.
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Monday, November 27th, 2006 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
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The mechanic informs me that both of those are located within the distributor, and have tested fine.
Thanks again for the input, though!
If you can think of anything else, please let me know.
Hope you had a great Thanksgiving!
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Monday, November 27th, 2006 AT 11:59 AM

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