Mechanics

AUTOMATIC SLIDING DOOR RATTLES WHILE DRI

2000 Ford Windstar

Shakes or Wobbles problem
2000 Ford Windstar 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 175000 miles

While we are at about 30 mph or higher the Automatic Sliding door will start to rattle. If you pull on the handgrip you can make it stop. Is there anything I tighten to make it stop. Please give step by step instuctions if possible.

Thanks!

Al
Avatar
Bitwise4
June 26, 2009.




Hi Al
open door and check the rolling bearing at the bottom
most common I have seen it lost its plastic insulator and need replacement

ISSUE
The sliding door may "squeak" and/or "rattle" when going over bumps. This may be caused by a misaligned sliding door.
ACTION
Perform the Sliding Door Adjustment Procedure outlined in this TSB. This should reduce the possibility of noise by restoring proper alignment. Refer to the following SERVICE PROCEDURE for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
The following procedure is used to repair windnoise, water leaks, and squeaks and rattles that are diagnosed as coming from the sliding door. The procedure consists of adjustments that are made to the sliding door to properly locate it in the sliding door opening.
How To Use This Service Guide: The fit of the sliding door is of foremost importance for preventing rattle from the sliding door area. Before performing repairs on the sliding door, verify the rattle is located in the sliding door area. This can be accomplished by driving over semi-harsh bumps with a driver and a 2nd row passenger near the sliding door.
Before any adjustments for fit are made, follow Steps 1, 2, 3 and 7 - in that order.
Does "A" improve the alignment of the sliding door and stop the squeak and/or rattle? If YES, then the door is properly adjusted for minimizing squeak and rattle concerns. Retorque all bolts per specifications in Step 8. If NO, proceed to "C".
After performing "A", if the sliding door is still obviously misaligned for fit, follow Steps 1, 4, 5, 6 and 7 - in that order.
This guide was formulated by trained Windstar technicians, and is the plant's process for repairing the sliding door for squeak and rattle concerns.
STEP 1 - LOOSEN FRONT WEDGES
Use a chalk pen to outline the bolts on the wedges before they self adjust
This will give you an idea about how far out the sliding door wedges are when you first begin. If the wedges are not loosened
they will put the door in the same position the door was in before the adjustment was made.
Upper Front Wedge
Loosen the wedge Torx bolts using a T-30 Torx bit.
Only loosen the wedge on the B-pillar; leave the receptacle on the sliding door secured.
The wedge should be loose enough to move, but not so loose that the wedge cannot hold its position when it is moved.
Lower Front Wedge
Loosen the wedge nut inside the B-pillar.
The wedge should be loose enough to move, but not so loose that the wedge cannot hold its position when it is moved.
Loosen the wedge Torx bolt using a T-27 Torx bit.
Again, only loosen the bolt slightly.
Once the wedge is snug/loose, the closure of the sliding door will realign the wedges to the proper position once adjustments are made for alignment and fit.
Whenever adjustments to the sliding door are made, this procedure should be followed.
The wedges are tightened in Step 7, after any adjustments are made to the sliding door.
STEP 2 - ADJUST C-PILLAR WIRE STRIKER
The next adjustment to the sliding door is to check the alignment of the C-pillar striker
With the door all the way in the closed position, check the inboard/outboard up/down position of the striker to the latch. The striker should be sitting directly in the center of the latch for the up/down position.
The latch should NOT be resting on the bottom or the top of the striker when the door is almost in the closed position or in the closed position
When the striker rests on the top or bottom of the latch, vibration from road conditions will cause the door latch to rattle on the striker.
You can check the centering of the striker, by slowly opening and closing the door and watching the striker operate in the latch. The adjustment should be apparent after subjectively viewing the mating of the two components and any witness marks for wear on the striker.
Loosen the striker 1-3 turns so that it is snug but not loose. If the striker is loose, it will not stay in the position you adjust.
Up/Down Adjustment of the Striker: Again, the striker must be not be seated or touching the top, bottom or sides of the latch. Adjust the striker to the center up/down and inboard/outboard position by tapping the striker and checking its position after each tap.
NOTE:Once these steps are performed, all other adjustments can be referenced to the C-pillar striker. This striker must be adjusted first, then subsequent adjustments can follow.

STEP 3 - ADJUST B-PILLAR WIRE STRIKER
With the door almost all the way in the closed position, check the inboard/outboard up/down position of the striker to the latch
The striker should be sitting directly in the center of the latch for the up/down position.
The striker should NOT be resting on the bottom or the top of the latch when the door is almost in the closed position and in the closed position. When the striker rests on the top or bottom of the latch, vibration from road conditions will cause the door latch to rattle on the striker.
You can check the centering of the striker, by slowly opening and closing the door and watching the striker operate in the latch. The correct adjustment should be apparent after subjectively viewing the mating nature of the two components and viewing any witness marks for wear on the striker.
Inboard/Outboard Sliding Door at the B-pillar:
If the fit of the sliding door is inboard when the sliding door latch engages the striker, the striker must be tapped slightly outboard.
Conversely, if the fit of the sliding door is outboard when the sliding door latch engages the striker, the striker must be tapped slightly inboard.
Up/Down Adjustment of the Striker: Again, the striker must be not be seated on the top or bottom of the latch. Adjust the striker to the center up/down position. This will prevent sliding door rattles.
NOTE:Once these steps are performed, all other adjustments can be referenced back to the C-pillar striker. This striker must be adjusted first, then subsequent adjustments can follow.

STEP 4 - LOWER ROLLER BRACKET AND GUIDE ASSEMBLY (LRBAGA)
NOTE:This assembly cannot be adjusted for some vehicles in 1998. If the procedure of adjusting the strikers fixes the rattle problem, adjusting the upper and lower guide assemblies may not be necessary unless the fit is poor.

After the wedges have been loosened, and the striker mechanisms have been corrected, the LRBAGA can be adjusted if necessary
This should only be attempted to adjust for fit, water leaks, and windnoise.
Loosen the bolt on the LRBAGA.
Move the bracket until the pin is centered in the window. Non-adjustable LRBAGAs do not have a window slot. If the assembly is non-adjustable, skip this Step.
Once the pin is centered in the window, the LRBAGA is properly adjusted.
If the pin is not centered in the window, the sliding door will not close flush with the body. The door will be too far in or too far out.
STEP 5 - UPPER ROLLER GUIDE ASSEMBLY (URGA)
The URGA performs the following functions:
Supports the top of the sliding door when it is open or closed
It is one of the components that helps to close the door
Provides proper door inboard/outboard positioning when the sliding door is closed.
After properly adjusting the LRBAGA, adjust the URGA
After the wedges have been loosened, and the striker mechanisms have been corrected, the URGA can be adjusted if necessary. This should only be attempted to adjust for fit, water leaks, and windnoise.
Mark the forward edge of the bracket so you can see how far you have moved the door.
Slightly loosen the nuts.
Move the door in the direction needed to make the door flush with the body. If the URGA is too far out, the following conditions may occur:
The door will not be flush with the body
The bottom of the door may be too far in
Windnoise at the upper front corner of the door
Water leak at the upper front corner of the door
Rattle at the upper front corner of the door.
If the URGA was too far in, the door will not be flush with the body and the bottom of the door may be too far out.
STEP 6 - CENTER REAR SLIDING DOOR HINGE AND ROLLER
The Center Rear Sliding Door Hinge and Roller Assembly (Fig. 8 ) is used to adjust the margin at the front and back of the sliding door. If the margin is incorrect at the front of the sliding door but within specifications at the rear of the sliding door, you will need to adjust the front passenger door. If the margin at the rear of the sliding door is incorrect, adjust the Center Rear Sliding Door Hinge and Roller.
CAUTION:Doing this will quite possibly result in the misalignment of the C- and B-pillar strikers. Sacrificing fit for rattle may be the only choice if the margins are still out slightly, but the door is rattleproof.

Loosen the center rear sliding door hinge and roller bolts.
Adjust the door forward or backward to obtain the proper margin measurement.
Tighten the center rear sliding door hinge and roller bolts with the door closed.
STEP 7 - TIGHTEN WEDGES
After completing all the necessary adjustments, the wedges can now be tightened.
The B-pillar male wedges should be snug and able to self-align when the door is closed.
Close the sliding door firmly to adjust the wedges to the right position.
Retorque the wedges to the proper torque carefully watching for movement while torquing. Any movement during retorque, start over.
The wedges should smoothly mate and NOT cause the door to pull inboard or outboard. The wedges are merely stabilizers that keep the door from movement in two axes, up/down and inboard/outboard.
Rear C-Pillar Wedge
The rear wedge should engage smoothly as the door closes tightly. The plastic tape on the C-pillar should be aligned to contact the wedge smoothly as the door engages.
Make sure the wedge retracts properly on closure. Failure to engage on the body can cause door rattle. Apply a thin layer of Silicone (F7AZ-19G208-BA) to the two (2) B-pillar wedges and the C-pillar wedge.

good luck


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BMRFIXIT
Jun 27, 2009.


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