1976 Ford Torino alternator

Tiny
DCCOLEMAN5
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  • 1976 FORD TORINO
Electrical problem
1976 Ford Torino V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

76 ford torino

it is burning up alternators. Initially seems to work intermittenly then completely burns up

My question is this: could it be a result of not having a dash instrument cluster connected (because no indicator light connected) if so, is there any way to fix it without the instrument cluster? (Mine is pretty much destroyed) I bought a replacement cluster, but it was a little different and the wiring apparently is not the same. Since most of the gauges do not work when I connect it

if not the gauge cluster. Do you have any other ideas?

thank you for your help

chandler coleman
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Friday, April 17th, 2009 AT 9:06 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
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Ok I am trying to find some wiring diagrams for your car so I can answer the question at hand. I do need to know what color the gromet is at the module on the fender. Get back to me and hopefully I will find a wiring diagram to answer you question too.
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Friday, April 17th, 2009 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
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What module which fender?
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Friday, April 17th, 2009 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
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This module on drivers fender.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_51082_1.jpg

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Saturday, April 18th, 2009 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
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I apologize for my lack of expertise in that particular area. But the module looks exactly like that one. Not really sure what you mean by the gromet. But please don't give up on me. I really do appreciate the help and would really like to figure this thing out. I do have a volt meter. If that would help us at all
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Monday, April 20th, 2009 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
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Any luck with the wiring diagram?
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Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
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Ok no wiring diagram that I can load up for you but here is how it goes ok. Now I think that most of your problems may be the I term from the regulator I will include a pic of the regulator ok. Here is what each wire does so you make sure they are all in the right place ok.
I term- Green wire with red stripe goes to the charge light.
A term- yellow wire with white dotted stripe tied into the battery cable.
S term - white wire with black stripe goes to the alternator stator or S term on back of alt.
F term - orange wire with light blue stripe alternator field on back of alternator.
So these are the letters on the alternator regulator on the fender or next to the radiator and so you need to check to see that they are all in the right spot ok. Let me know what you find here. I am also digging to find out how important that I term for the charge light is to the working of the alternator. I will get back to you on that after you let me know how all the wiring is ok. Here is the regulator also if this maybe bad too. So far the best I can tell that charge wire has to be hooked up too inorder to work right.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_51170_1.jpg

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Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
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Ok. All wires are connected to their correct corresponding locations. The regulator is actually fairly new, I replaced it not too long ago while after replacing the first two alternators. I cleaned the connections while I was checking the wires as well. Also, not sure if it is worth mentioning but there are two yellow wires coming out of the A terminal, one tied in with battery as you described and the other is connected to cylinder shaped device located directly beneath the regulator

now for the bad news. I think I may have screwed something up while checking the wires. Accidentally created a very very brief spark on the back of the alternator with the stator wire and now the alternator is charging between 15.8 and 16 and if I remember correctly. That's a little high. Man i'm an idiot (metal screwdriver)
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Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
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Ok don't sweat it yet the alternator should still be under warranty if its charging to much. OK so what I need you do is hook you volt meter up and disconnect the regulator and see what it does. I should not charge it should just show battery voltage. What regulator do you have is it the solid state one in the pic or is it the old point style? Get back to me with what you find and we will go from there.
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Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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Ok, the regulator is the same as in the pic. I actually already replaced the alternator and regulator. With regulator connected it reads 13.5. Disconnected it reads about 12.3 (atlernator not charging) in the past this was pretty much the same until the alternator prett much burned up and quit working. It seems to be charging and I can drive it all day until it rains and I have to use the wipers or at night when I have to turn the lights on. There is another issue that i'm not sure is related but I suppose I should go ahead and mention it. After driving the car for while and it is good and warm, if I turn the car off and then try to start it back up the engine turns over very slowly as if the battery is drained. Never had a volt meter on me when it happened so I don't know if the battery was weak or if there is something wrong with the engine that makes it harder to turn over when warm and that in itself drains the battery. What role does the starter play in the charging system? . Do you have any idea where I could find a wiring diagram for the wires going to the instrument cluster so I could attempt to trace those wires out and hook up the gauges individually?. And have you found out anything about the alt indicator light?
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Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
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Ok 13.5 is low it should be 14.5 or so. So take the alternator off and have it tested and warranty it if bad. As for the hard to start you need to check the starter draw and the battery. The starter actually has a lot to do with the charging system sense the battery cable goes from the starter solinoid on the fender straight to the starter.
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Thursday, April 23rd, 2009 AT 10:22 AM
Tiny
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Alternator checked out fine. I checked out the voltage on my landrover to compare it to the readings I was getting from the torino and the landrover was reading 13.6 to 13.7 at idle which is about the same as the torino
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Friday, April 24th, 2009 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
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Ok if you can check the voltage drop when you start it. If the alternator is good and the charge is right as it is then the voltage regulator is good so now lets check the starter to make sure it is good. When you start it, it should not drop below 10 volts at the battery. How are the cables and cable ends? Get back to me with your findings.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2009 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
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We may be on to something here. Checked the voltage drop when starting. With car already warm. The first time it dropped below ten for a split second before starting so I let it run for about 3 or 4 more minutes. Then cut if off and immediately tried to start it again and the volts dropped into the 8's and engine turned very slowly

i don't know about the condition of the cables at the starter but I replaced both positive and negative battery cables with brand new ones and connectors about a year ago. The starter was also replaced about a year or so ago
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
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Well it sounds like you may have a bad starter. I would take it off and take it to you local parts store and tell them how it acts when it is warmed up so they will test it more then just once and verify weather or not is is bad. Let me know what you find here.
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Wednesday, April 29th, 2009 AT 10:25 AM

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