Check engine light?

The "check engine" light is an indicator for a system that monitors many electronic functions in the system, also called the "malfunction indicator lamp" (MIL). It can come on for any of hundreds of different causes from any of the systems that the computer monitors. Some are very important and can lead to further component or engine damage and some are emissions related not as serious but still a problem and need to be repaired.

Your first step is to have the computer scanned to retrieve the trouble codes that were set when the check engine light came on. This guide can help us do that

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

my car stutters/hesitates....the check engine light came on, the stared flashinh, then just stayed on...i tightened the gas cap and the light went out, but came back on. car will drive but then it stutters and feels sluggish. i had a testing done on it.the possibilities were vacuum leak, high/low fuel pressure (whatever that means) or bad spark plugs....what do u think?

I think the actual codes would help us determine where to start, but I always go with the basics first, when was the last COMPLETE tune up? All filters plugs and wires? When the MIL flashes, it means damage to the catalytic converter can be occuring!

Engine problem
2002 Ford Taurus V6 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 137000 miles
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2002 Ford Taurus wagon 3.0 V6_mileage: 137000. Several months ago our alternator went bad. I replaced it but a week later the check engine light came on and the car lost power while running VERY rough. I replaced the plugs, wires and coil pack. This significantly improved the problem however it still runs rough at idle. Especially with a load on (in gear or A/C on). The highway miles are still close to 27 mpg.
I checked the engine codes and they are P0302-Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected and P0316-Misfire Detected 1st 1000 Revs.
Generally there is no loss of power unless the car idles for a awhile after it is warm, ie at a stoplight. Then the check engine light begins to flash and power drops noticeably. If I ease the car along or let it sit long enough, the power returns and the light stops flashing. I suspect the #2 injector but I would like a professional opinion. Thank you.

Yes you can check the injectors, all you need is an ohm meter, and a fuel pressure tester, here'sa how, the system by the way should be 39-65 psi...

Hello,
I am wondering when I should use a code reader to diagnose my car troubles.

Thanks.

Every time that Check Engine Light makes an appearance. It goes on for a reason, the car may still function properly but the code is telling you something worth listening to. It could be errant but it could be valuable as well.

the car is starting to be sluggish especially going up any type of hill. The engine light has now come on

Since your "check engine" light has come on, I would start by checking for codes. Your problem could be a failed sensor. Do you have any other symptoms? Like rough running, stalling, missing, etc?
Generally, performance problems are caused by mixture or ignition problems. The main mixture controls are the O2 sensors and the mass air flow sensor. A failed mass air flow sensor can go "undetected" by the computer for quite a while.

When driving on the freeway at approx 65 mph with the a/c on, the check engine light starts flashing and it feels as though the car loses power but does not stall. I basically coast after turning of the a/c and after a couple of minutes the light will stop flashing and the car drives normal.
This only happens on hot days when I am running the a/c. Please help! It's hot here!

Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120k miles

my car was involved in a front end driver side accident which took out the rack and pinion, the rotor on left side, the strut and lots of fender parts! now i got it back and the abs light is on for one! i know thats brake sensor proble i guess, but my real problem is the engine light came on and also the car seems like it hads a misfire problem! sometimes it's ok other times it misses or something like that, and when i step on it to get on major highways, the car seems to hold back! i have to almost floor it to get it going fast enough to merge!! also once on highway when i step on gas she seems like it dies then picks up hope i made alittle sense! thanks for ur help

Need to have it back at the shop that did the work ask them for the codes
they should be able to give you the ABS and engine codes
let me know what do u have for codes
check it for tune up
check the coil

check PCV valve hose for vacuum leaks

I just noticed a problem with my 24 valve engine. When I step on the gas to accelerate suddenly the check engine light flashes off and on for about a minute, them goes out. The light seems to go out when I let off on the gas, but won't come back on if I do the same thing again. It's done it two days in a row, it just started doing this. It's not low on oil or anything like that. The car has been great up to this point, not a single problem. I was thinking it might be the TPS sensor, but not sure. I may bring it in next week to see if any codes come up. Any thoughts on this?

no tps. if your light flashes it means there is a misfire real bad. id check plugs and wires, most likely thats all it is. feedback greatly appreciated..

[quote:9d026ac12b="mastertechtim"]no tps. if your light flashes it means there is a misfire real bad. id check plugs and wires, most likely thats all it is. feedback greatly appreciated..[/quote:9d026ac12b]

I think you hit it on the head. Checked the codes, none. Opened the hood and looked at the wires in the front, two were touching, I adjusted them so they no longer touch, I haven't had the problem since. I now realize that the two times it happened were on days that the engine was cold. The wires could have gotten wet when the cold engine warmed up some, when they passes through the dew point, and it wouldn't do it again because the engine and wires were now warm, no longer wet. Thanks

check engine light on and will not pass emision test

First thing you need to do is have the codes read, Autozone does it free, Post the results with the code number(s). Even if the service engine light is not on, there should be freeze frame data stored.
If it won't make it to Autozone, buy a cheap scanner, they can be had for 30-40 dollars, a good investment, since they cover all cars sold in the USA from 96 on...
If the light is blinking, it means engine misfires possible damage to the Catalytic converter...service it right away!

Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 140k miles

I had a 02(ex girls) ford Taurus Heads gasket repaired/ work was guarenteed along with radiator . This was about 100 days ago , after back n forth with Mechanic he is going to run a diagnostic again. Engine light has been on ever since ,At another garage I had computer run (diagnositic)It says MISFIRE now , same MISFIRE as it had before . He(phone conversations) is trying to tell me he doesnt think it is still head gasket .

Also , we did bring it back a few days after he was finished gasket job , he said engine light would go off , and the fuel injectors had problem . ( he ran diagnositic and mentioned possible injectors , etc)

The car has never been back to full power , it hesitates slightly from a stop (lacking power) (less gas mileage) .

During our dialogue ( he brings up fuel injectors , and other things ) excuses .
We are bringing it in his shop in next few days to look at ,with my supervision.

He obviously want to blame in on something else , not GASKET , How and What do I watch for , and protect my self ? I am sure he wants to dig up more $$ ,and not repair the gasket . Of course it could be something else .
thanks
paul

Scan for codes
cylinder s misfiring
any cylinder that is misfiring check for spark ,wire and coil
check compression
low compression its a headgasket issue
if engine overheating its possible headgasket issue
coil not firing its not a headgasket issue
if asking for money to fix the problem
have it checked and repaired by a different shop (as it is obvious that you have no trust in them )
if its a headgasket then you can demand your money back ,
and you have a good running engine and a receipt from a different shop backing your claim

engine light came on and stayed on. checked gas cap - o.k. what else?

Take the car to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. If the light is on, there should be a trouble code set in the computer.

Also, most parts stores will scan for free, so there is no money out of pocket.

Let me know what you find. Also, you mentioned the gas cap. Do you already know it is an EVAP code?

Joe

recently I had cylinder #2 replaced by a Ford Dealership. since then my service light has come on repeatedly and now it will not turn off. All steering fluid was out when I picked up the car...I had all fluids changed and, I guess, they just forgot to fill that one up...all the others are "leaky" now. I have just filled them all to the proper levels and the engine light is still on..any suggestions. I will not take it back to that dealership.
thanks for your input,sa

Check engine light on is an indication of a stored trouble code in the PCM
Need to use an OBDII reader to get in and read the codes
Most local shops and part stores can help you in getting the codes
You can post the codes for more help if needed
Check engine light on
1st step is to get the codes

My 2002 Ford Taurus does not have AC any longer. I noticed about two months ago that the Check engine light would come on and stay for a couple of days, then would disappear for several days. When the light would come on, my AC would quit blowing cooled air. It then became an instance of if I started the car and the air was off the light would not come on, Now the light is on constantly minus the time I had to change the battery out because the other one died twice. (hmm..this might be a clue as well). When i changed the battery I did it in the auto parts stores parking lot, we checked the codes on the check engine light before changing the battery and no codes reported. After changing the battery the AC worked the whole way home!! Only the next day, the Check engine light came back on, and no AC. It has been like this now for three weeks. It has been over 100 degrees each day for five straight days. I need help!!

Other than spending money on trying to find out what the problem is, money I don't have right now, I need to make sure that I am not killing the car.

When the light on go back to the part store ask them to get the codes for you
let me know what you have for codes
good luck

The light was on last time, only the guy didn't start the engine. This time we started the engine and voila, P1633.

The definition on the slip says
"Keep Alive Memory (KAM) voltage too low.

Explanation
ECM detected the KAM power circuit to the battery was interrupted.

Probable Cause
Battery Disconnect occurred
Open or Short Circuit condition

After a Google search, most results showed that a fuse was blown as well with this issue, I checked the Fuse (#22 A/C relay) and it was fine. I also looked at the A/C Clutch but can't tell if it was turning or not?

Diagnostic Aids
This test is used to diagnose the following:
Battery Terminal Condition
Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) Circuit Routing
KAPWR Circuit Condition
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Testing.

NOTE:KAPWR is interrupted when PCM or battery is disconnected. DTC P0603, P1605 or P1633 may be generated during next PCM power-up.

1) DTC P0603, P1605 & P1633:
2) Check Battery Terminals
Inspect battery terminals for corrosion or loose connection. Service as necessary. If battery terminals are okay, go to next step.
2) Check Engine Compartment For Proper Wire Routing

Inspect wiring harness and connectors for damage or corrosion. Ensure wiring harness is properly routed and not too close to ignition or exhaust components. Service as necessary. If no concerns are found, go to next step.
3) Check Keep Alive Power Circuit To PCM

Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect PCM connector(s). Inspect connector for loose, damaged or corroded terminals. Repair as necessary. Using a DVOM, measure voltage between chassis ground and KAPWR circuit at PCM harness connector terminal No. 55 (104-pin PCM), or terminal No. A44 (150-pin PCM). While observing DVOM, wiggle and bend small sections of wiring harness between PCM and dash panel. If voltage is continuously 10.5 volts or more, go to next step. If at anytime voltage drops to less than 10.5 volts, isolate open in KAPWR circuit and repair as necessary.
4) Check For Repeat Of DTC P0603, P1605 Or P1633

Reconnect PCM connector(s). Start engine and allow to idle and reach normal operating temperature. Perform KOEO ON-DEMAND SELF-TEST. Retrieve Continuous Memory DTCs. If DTC P0603, P1605 or P1633 is present, replace PCM. If any other DTCs are present, service as necessary. See DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DEFINITIONS. If no DTCs are present, testing is complete. DTC P0603, P1605 or P1633 may have been due to a previous repair.
Good luck

My Taurus has been running rough lately. It seems fine when I first start it, but after it is warm when you accelerate it jerks or has a bad miss. It will idle fine and only does it when you accelerate. A couple times the light that looks like an engine flashes when I accelerate. After a few minutes it goes off. It did this when it was under warranty and they said they changed a plug (fouled) and spark plug wire.We did a code test on it, but there were no codes.The car only has 81000 miles and I am the 2nd owner. I have had the car for 5 years and this is the only problem I've had.Do I need to do a tune up now? What can I do before I have to spend alot of money later? Oh, I recently put a bottle of slick 50 injector cleaner in. I haven't finished the tank of gas yet, but still no difference.

Have the CAT convertor checked. It may be clogged or partially clogged.

They can perform a backpressure test on it, but it sounds to me like the convertor is clogged.

I did an OBD on the car and did not get any codes. Shouldn't there have been at least some kind of code?

You should get a code.

If the convertor is bolted on, it is very easy (oops, I used the "easy" word :) )to remove and visually check it.

Otherwise check fuel pressure and spark.

my car shows the engine light i gave it a tune up as soon i hit the route it started like it wanted to turn off i was thinking is the converter i m not a mechanic but i read the user manual as soon has i hit 40mph it start like jumping.

take the vehicle to a good autoparts store (autozone etc.) have them scan for fault codes (most do this free) repost with the codes for a better diagnosis and repair advice

i have read some of the other replies from you guys on this issue my question is,if it is a specific cyl. misfire what is the more common solution?
I pulled the wires off the coil while running to make sure it was still firing and it would jump a spark across a 1in gap to the wire does that mean the coil is still good? or will it still do that with a weak coil? I just replaced the plugs with a new set of Bosch Platinum +2 and it didnt do the trick. And all the wires "look" good,no evidence of cracks or ground out.

Codes will help in pin pointing the cylinder
plugs was changed what about the wires
if spark jumping out of coil and its strong coil should be OK

Thats next,im gonna get some wires. I guess i will go through the process of elimination till i get it. I am praying it aint the compression in the cylinder to low!

Shakes or Wobbles problem
2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl

A few days ago my engine light came on after I got an oil change,i had only had my car for a little over a month or more and now everytime I'm at a stop light for a few seconds my car act light it's going to turn off, so i put in in Neutral so that it doesn't. It's fine when i drive but when i stop that when the extra shaking occurs. what does this sound like?

Check engine light:

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

I am sure that it has to do with your engine vaccum hose, when it springs a air leak it backs up air and loses pressure causing the sputter. My Taurus has done it before and had the Vaccum Hose replaced , then it drove smoothly. Have you had the MAF sensor replaced before? it can also cause this problem as well. I paid 50 bucks to replae the MAF sensor online on eBay because AutoZone wanted almost 100 bucks for the replacement.

This Morning on the way to work the check engine light came on I had the AC on and driving 55 MPH. I pulled over and when I turned the lights off the check engine light went off. I turned the car completely off and the the AC off and the Lights off, sat there for few minutes and then turned everything back on and drove 40 mph to work and the light remained off and did not come back on. Im afraid to drive anywhere do you know what the problem could be?