Engine misfire please help?

Tiny
RE7512
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 14,600 MILES
I have an cylinder 2 misfire and I am working with a low budget so need help with this please the car is shaking of course and the engine light is blinking also the engine coolant is going pretty fast I have to put more in like every month if that helps any also the plugs in the front of the car the little box that has 6 plug wires coming off of it I touched all the plugs on the top of them and 1 and 4 shocked the crap out of me but the others did not also autozone told me to turn the engine on and unplug wire 2 and see what happens I did and nothing happened it ran exactly the same no different hope that helps thanks
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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 12:42 AM

30 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Could be compression low, bad plug, bad wire, bad coil, bad injector or wiring. It is possible you need a tune up but it could be a fuel injector as well we should run the codes to see what's going on first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 3:07 AM
Tiny
RE7512
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Thanks for the guides it was the #2 fuel injectors runs great! I love this site.
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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 3:11 AM
Tiny
ERIC FISCHER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
Engine Performance problem
2001 Ford Taurus V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120K miles

Engine is 3.0 DOHC with ignition pack (not individual coils on each spark plug)

DTC code, misfiring cyl #2 (P0302), new spark plugs and wires 3 months ago.
Just replaced PCV 2 weeks ago. All vaccume hoses look to be properly connected and not cracked.

Troubleshooting:
cleared fault code

#2 plug looked good not fouled, all spark plug wires look good (again they are basically new)

resistance tested coil pack comparing resistance values to a new coil pack, coil (all 3 coils in the coil pack) checked out ok with digital ohm meter. Plus only #2 cylinder misfire DTC detected (coil pack coils feed two cylinders each) so I don't think it is the coil causing problem if it was I would expect to see misfires with two cylinders (i.E. #2 & #6).

Swapped cyl #2 plug with cyl #5
swapped #2 plug wire with #3 wire

DTC misfire code reappeared staying with cyl #2
therefore it's not the spark plug or the spark plug wire

Where to look next?

I would suspect a fuel system problem to affect more than 1 cylinder (fuel filter is fairly new), car pulls strongly under hard acceleration but runs rough when cruising 30 - 40 mph.

Could it still be the coil pack even though the coils ohm out ok and only 1 cylinder is misfiring?

Any thoughts / suggestions appreciated
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
I have seen it. One coil runs two cylinders but only one cylinder misfires on GM 3800 Series II.

This video will help fix it

https://youtu.be/iDgXwKA-IIc

would swap the coil with one of the other coils. If the misfire switches to the new cylinder then you know the coil is bad. If it stays at cylinder 2, then you know you need to further check cylinder two.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NICKYK06
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I have a misfire in one of my cylinders, and I was wondering how much that would cost? I also know that I need to get my spark plugs replaced, and my car has been shaking a lot, and I'm wondering if it's because of the spark plugs and/or, the engine.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

A missfiring cylinder can be caused by.

Worn Plugs, Bad Wires, Bad Coil, Bad Injector, Bad Injector Harness, Vacuum Leaks, the EGR Vavle, The IAC Valve (Idle Air Control), Fuel Pressure.

So, as you can see there are many thing that can cause your problem, I would suggest changing the plugs and wires to begine with since you say they are in need of replacement. I have found that 90% of the time that fixes the problem.

.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KATIELAYNE02
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 66,000 MILES
My car was in a multiple car accident with front and rear damage. The accident caused a coolant leak and as a result the car overheated the day of the accident. The body shop ignored the leak unbeknownst to me as a result the day I got it back from them the car overheated again. Ever since then we have been fighting with misfires. First the back three cylinders. Then the front three. We replaced all spark plugs and wires and that seemed to fix the problem for a bout three weeks. Now only the first cylinder is misfiring. What is causing the problem if all new spark plugs and wires have been replaced?
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Check to see if it is an injector issue. If it passes all the injector tests, then it might be a compression issue. A compression test would quickly tell you if this is the case or not.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZEDPRINTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Ford taurus sel 24 valve DOHC. I am getting a p0301 code indicating cylinder 1 is misfiring. I replaced sparkplugs and plug wires. Car is still running awful, like it's only running on 5 cylinders. Code is still there. Is there a way to isolate problem further. Should I focus on ignition coil. I did check the spark of the plug wire to 1st cylinder and I wasn't getting any at all.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
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Try a new plug and wire, if that still doesnt give you spark then take it off at the coil and try to see if its corroded or anything if not hook up a short plug wire and a spark tester to it, if no spark you may need a new coil.

When a ignition module goes out usually all the spark goes out.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TASHULTS
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  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
When Driving my car will shake really bad for about 1-4 seconds, when I accelerate to around 25-30 mph. It also shakes whenever I am in drive and stopped, but this only happens for about 1 second. I had it checked out by a local auto zone and they said it was misfiring on 1. So could it be something more than just a misfire, like transmission problems, or something of that nature.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi there, if you have a miss fire code then you will have to sort out this problem first, replace the plug, check the comp, check the injector and check for vacuum leaks around this cylinder, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CH155249
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 41,500 MILES
Seems like this is a really common problem for the Taurus from what I'm finding online.

My Taurus just started having this "miss" issue and I took it to my local dealer. They want $800 and say it needs at least new plugs and plug wires and an injector cleaning. I told them to go to hell.

So. How do I do this myself? Apparently, part of the cost is due to the fact you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the plugs on the back side.

First, do you think this is the whole problem? Can you tell me how to get the intake manifold off so that I can replace the plugs and wires? Any special tips or tricks that I need to know about? I've worked on boat engines before but not alot with cars. I can spin a wrench, so it can't be too tuff. Right?

Thanks for your help!
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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I would suspect the coil very common
check the spark plugs 1st and wires
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CH155249
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Can you tell me what all is involved in changing the plugs and wires? I was told the manifold has to be removd. Is that difficult? I've heard it is only 6 screws but then I've also heard it takes 4 hours. Can't be both!

Thanks!
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Engine code will make a difference what do u have for engine code (# 8 in the VIN is it 1 -2-u or s )

3.0L V6 - VIN U & 2 -2001 Ford Taurus SE

Removal (Upper Intake Manifold: 2001 Model Year)
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner outlet tube. 2. Remove the pin-type retainers and the snow shield.

3. Disconnect the accelerator cable, speed control actuator cable and the throttle return spring from the throttle body
4. Remove the bolts, then position the accelerator cable bracket aside.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose. Disconnect the evaporative emissions return tube.

6. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC). Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor.

7. Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the intake manifold support bracket.
8. Remove the upper intake manifold support bracket. Remove the bolts. Remove the nut.
9. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube from the upper intake manifold.
10. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) tube from the EGR valve. Loosen the nut.
11. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the EGR valve.
12. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the upper intake manifold and electronic vacuum regulator (EVR) and disconnect the electrical connector from the EVR.
13. Disconnect the wire harness retaining clip.
14. Disconnect the spark plug holder.
15. Remove the upper intake manifold. Remove the four bolts. Remove the intake manifold.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MEMAP1683
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I purchased this vehicle 4 months ago. Took is to a mechanic because it has been missing out. Car was put on their machine but did not give an exact reading. He wanted to replace the sparkplugs and wires, etc. When I called the dealership where I purchased the car from the owner said that if the sparkplugs and wires were new they did not need replaced. He went on to explain the other things that went along with a tuneup and explained to me why I did not need that done. After picking my car up from the mechanic I went through the car wash. When I left there the check engine light came on. I had it checked at our local Auto Zone with their machine that they have (do not remember the name of it) but what it said was that I had multiple misfires. I explained to the manager about washing the car and the light came on, etc. And that I noticed that it seemed to miss out mainly when I was going up an incline. His diagnosis was that it was a vacuum leak possibly. At this point I don't know who to trust or if anyone is correct. I do not have 500, 600 or more dollars to just throw around and maybe not even solve the problem. Please help!
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi memap1683,

Based on your description I woulde deduce that the problem is spark plug and wire related.

If the wires and plugs were new, it could be due to poor contact of connectioons. Check the wires and if water had gotten to the wires, it would definitely misfire.

We should start from the basics and eliminate the possibilities one by one.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDJ95
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,170 MILES
The last couple of weeks I have been experiencing some misfires in my car, they seem to only be happening in warm temperatures. In the morning the car runs fine, but after work when it gets warmer our acts up. While idling, my car stays to lose power, and jumps from about 900 rpm's to about 600. One day it did that for a minute our so, and then the check engine light came on and there was a steady shake. Now it will do it more often. Today was a hot day and it did it consistently. I had the spark plugs replaced six months ago for a different misfire, that was much different than this one. I replaced the coil pack yesterday to see if that would help, but other than starting up easier in the morning, that did nothing. I had a mechanic look at out, and with the car ruining he pulled the spark plug wire from the cylinder one spot on the coil pack and there was no spark, he said it had to be the coil pack.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
The place to start is by having the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at many auto parts stores will do that for you for free. If you get a code for a specific cylinder misfire, switch that spark plug with one from a different cylinder, erase the code, then see if it sets again for the same cylinder or the one you moved the suspect spark plug to. You can do that with the injector too, but use a different cylinder so if a code does set, you'll know by the cylinder number if it's due to the spark plug or the injector.

An intermittently stuck-open EGR valve will cause rough running too, but only at idle and low speeds where it shouldn't be open. If you feel the roughness at higher speeds, the EGR system is not a good suspect.
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Saturday, January 16th, 2021 AT 9:34 AM (Merged)

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