1997 Ford Taurus alternator

First hook up a voltmeter to the battery, start the car, needs should read 13.8-15 volts, if not the alt needs to be replaced, testing is done with a fully charged battery!
Also: You may have a parasitic drain test this way:
Get an analog voltmeter remove the negative battery cable, attach the Black lead to the battery post, Red lead to cable end, then pull fuses one at a time, make sure there are no accessories or lights in the on position, Key off! Close the door after each fuse and check meter, when you pull the fuse for the bad curcuit, the meter will drop to 1 volt or so. Check all fuses, even under the hood. If meter does not drop, remove the battery connection from the alternator, if it drops now, the diodes are bad in the alternator. Put the fuse back in were it goes as you go so you don't forget which fuse goes were!

thanks for the quick reply i just had a friend come over and help me check and alternator isnt doing anything car does run but just on battery power and it idles alittle rough must be cause alternator is pooched ah or would irt be running alittle rough cause its been sitting ?

i think the guy i bought it off just put in reg fuel when it calls for premium

Could be that because the alt isnt putting out, the 9-10 volts needed to operate the modules in the car, once you change the alternator, be sure you either fully charge the battery, or buy anew one. If a battery thats to low is used, it could damage the new alternator. With a normally operating charging system, your other problems will probably go away.

so i changed alternator and charged battery both r working fine ,but now i notice it idles rough well just enough to notice alittle shake and it does get annoying after u drive for a few blocks,it almost seems like its the motor or transmissions mounts ? also i noticed that when its just the running lights on my headlights and dash lights dim in and out and i can hear a clicking noise under hood what causes this ?

First allow several days for the computer to finish it's relearn process... then re post any problems. as for any clicking have the relays under the hood checked, they are in the power distribution center.

what do they look like r they fuses ? sorry im new to this type of engine set up when i got it certified just the other day i had o get new rotors would them being changedbut then same brake pads left on there cause a rubbing well maybe not rubbing when i hit the brakes there is no vibration but i can hear and feel something in the steering wheel ,also how can u tell if u need to replace motor mounts or tranmission mounts ? would that cause car to shake alittle when idling ? thanks a bunch when i get a credit card i will be donating forsure this is the best website i have found thank u so much u guys

No there are two types normal relays are black square shaped and micro relays are black rectangle and smaller than the relays. There are relays in the PDC and als the ccrm(constant control relay module), this is up near the radiator on the driver's side.

thank u very much ill have to check them out how do u know if thy need to be changed ? or is it just better to buy new ones just to safe

Because you said that your lights are dim, I belive if the alt and battery are new, you have a loose ground connection, start the hunt with the negative battery cable, check both ends and then check the ground strat from the engine to the body, it's a braided bare wire. Also if the negative cable has a smaller lead coming off it to the body, check that as well. Is the check engine light on?

hey thanks ill check that um th lights on dash will dim in an out when i look on the dash i can s th running light symbol on dash but thn i can see it disappear then millisec later come back then keep doing it and even my head lights when on running lights and reg they dim could it still be possible for the relays to need to be changed ?

Well a dim condition is more likley to be ground related, or voltage regulator... or wire between the alt and the battery.