Mechanics

95 REAR DISC BRAKE DRAG

1995 Ford Taurus

Brakes problem
1995 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 112500 miles

My '95 Taurus has a rear disc brake drag problem, as indicated by excessive heat and odor, smoke and/or pad/rotor wear/discoloration (and likely mileage), obvious when driven more than a few miles, right (R)side is more noticable than left (L), but both sides are similarly affected. I have seen very few posting on web about such a serious/annoying performance problem.

I have replaced the following without any effect: L& R side flexible brake lines (new), R side caliper (rebuilt), caliper bracket and slide pins (new), parking brake return spring (new), L& R rotors and pads, as well as the load sensing proportioning valve (salvaged). All with no change.

When jacked up and the road wheel removed, the rotor hub may be turned by hand with slight drag (deemed 'normal'), however if foot brake is depressed
the brakes are 'locked' (deemed 'excessive') until caliper is wriggled by hand.

What can account for this, how do I debug it and what is the cure? The car will soon be used for two new drivers about to enter the driving world so safety/reliability is a primary concern, but cost is also a consideration.

o-Brake fluid flush/replace?
o-Master Cylinder test procedures?
o-ABS test procedures?
o-TSB or known issues?

Please advise.
Avatar
Dwheeler7676
May 28, 2008.



Any time the flex hose is craked or dry rotted, replace em, the reson is on the inside, if a piece peels loose, it will act like a one way valve, pressure can go in, but not out!

Merlin2021
Jun 3, 2008.
Not to beat a dead horse, but the dragging kept up even *after* both those hoses were replaced (which was the *first* I did to address the problem).

Would you dare to venture a guess that something like that could happen *elsewhere* in the system (like in the caliper, or master cylinder), despite liberal 'flushings' due to bleeding each brake circuit repeatedly (with no visible discoloration, crud, or particles ever seen in the recovery glass jar)?

Would a good brake flushing be advised in a situation like this, as a first step, and/or possibly have saved me some of my 'plug and play'? (For the next time.)

(Regardless, I'm still keeping my fingers crossed.) Thanks again!

Tiny
Dwheeler7676
Jun 3, 2008.
If it's not caliper mounts, and not calipers or hoses, it IS either contaminates brake fluid, oil or tranny fluid added to master, causing swelling of the rubber seals, then it will be brake cables, or hieght sensing valve allows too much pressure on rear brakes, so try driving wth the parking brake cables disconnected. As a test, Or have Ford test the and adjust the valve! You need a pressure gauge to do it!

Merlin2021
Jun 3, 2008.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Or what fixed it? We are having the same problem with our 1995 Taurus. It is at the mechanic right now and they don't know what it is either.

Tiny
Bgunderson
Aug 8, 2008.
If it has traction control, and all else has been checked, try pulling the ABS fuse and driving it, or if your car has a shutoff switch for the trc control, turn it off. Just a thought!

Merlin2021
Aug 9, 2008.
Here is some info on testing the traction control when ABS dash light is off. PINPOINT TEST J - POOR VEHICLE TRACKING DURING ANTI-LOCK FUNCTION, LIGHT OFF 1. Verify condition exists. Bleed brake system. If vehicle still does not track properly, go to next step. 2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect connector from ECU. See COMPONENT LOCATIONS. Connect breakout box and adapter. Raise and support vehicle. Ensure wheels spin freely. Connect jumper wire between pins No. 19 and 34 at breakout box. Connect another jumper wire between breakout box pins No. 2, 20 and 60. Apply moderate pressure to brake pedal. Ensure left front wheel does not rotate. Turn ignition on. Left front should rotate freely with ignition on. If wheel rotates freely, turn ignition off. Disconnect jumper wires, and go to next step. If wheel does not rotate freely, ensure wiring and connectors between ECU and solenoid valve block assembly are okay. If wiring and connectors are okay, replace solenoid valve block assembly. 3) Connect jumper wire between pins No. 19 and 34 at breakout box. Connect another jumper wire between breakout box pins No. 21, 38 and 60. Apply moderate pressure to brake pedal. Ensure right front wheel does not rotate. Turn ignition on. Right front wheel should rotate freely with ignition on. If wheel rotates freely, turn ignition off. Disconnect jumper wires jumper wire from breakout box pins No. 21, 38 and 60, and go to next step. If wheel does not rotate freely or if brake pedal drops, ensure wiring and connectors between ECU and solenoid valve block assembly are okay. If wiring and connectors are okay, replace solenoid valve block assembly. 4) Leave jumper wire connected between pins No. 19 and 34 at breakout box. Connect another jumper between breakout box pins No. 18, 55 and 60. Apply moderate pressure to brake pedal. Ensure right rear wheel does not rotate. Turn ignition on. Right rear wheel should rotate freely with ignition on. If wheel rotates freely, turn ignition off. Disconnect jumper wires, and go to next step. If wheel does not rotate freely or if brake pedal drops, ensure wiring and connectors between ECU and solenoid valve block assembly are okay. If wiring and connectors are okay, replace solenoid valve block assembly. 5) Connect jumper wire between pins No. 19 and 34 at breakout box. Connect another jumper between breakout box pins No. 36, 54 and 60. Apply moderate pressure to brake pedal. Ensure left rear wheel does not rotate. Turn ignition on. Left rear wheel should rotate freely with ignition on. If wheel rotates freely, turn ignition off. Disconnect jumper wires and breakout box and reverify symptom. If wheel does not rotate freely or if brake pedal drops, ensure wiring and connectors between ECU and solenoid valve block assembly are okay. If wiring and connectors are okay, replace solenoid valve block assembly. DO NOT leave ignition on more than one minute for this test. Page 1 of 1 ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM -1995 Ford Taurus LX 8/9/2008

Merlin2021
Aug 9, 2008.
I've been working on a 96 forever, and I've had the same problem with the rear brakes. The drivers side rear-caliper was dragging, yet I'm not certian I aligned the notches in the caliper piston when I installed the replacement caliper.

However the first caliper was faulty, and the replacement only dragged until the pad wore down enough, due to the improper adjustment.

I now have the 'special tool' to turn the cylinder in, and I no longer bother with used brake parts.

I have my suspicions that the ABS might have something to do with this cars issues, but I'm not expert.

Tiny
PlayDoh
Sep 10, 2008.
I too have a 96 Taurus GL with 4 wheel discs. My hydraulic lines rusted and burst and while under there I noticed that the rear pads are worn for the 3rd time in 35,000 miles. A year or so ago I had replaced the emergency brake cable only to find out that the right rear caliper emergency brake lever was frozen. Replaced both calipers with new pads and a year later here we are again with worn pads (and a groovy rotor). I have found a place on-line called classictube. Com. Their site is down right now but they have an 800 number. They allegedly make OEM brake lines. Will save me time and or money against attempting to make them myself. Already got the replacement pads and rotors in place. I will keep you advised on my progress and hopefully the real deal solution for the excessive pad wear.

Tiny
Volare Replacement
Oct 5, 2008.
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