Mechanics

STALLING

1998 Ford Ranger

Engine Performance problem
1998 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 155000 miles

its a 98 ford ranger 2.5 just like the 2.3 not the new 2.5 mazda engine 5 speed man 2wd the problem is it will run ruff and sometimes stall worse when it is cold the problem is like this when first started it idles great then if I hit hi rpms apx 2,000 before shifting into 2nd then come to a stop it will run ruff and sometimes stall I can make it act up in the drive way just raise the rpms and hold them at 2-3000 let it return to idle and it shakes /run ruff for about 30 sec then returns to a good idle benn doing this for apx 40,000 miles but it never used to stall so it is getting worse I have done the flowing replaced timing belt (never jumped time) replaced all injectors replaced wires and plugs replaced iac checked oil psi when cold 75 lbs max thinking lifters were building up replaced all lifters disconected all vac hoses one at a time pluged vac I and ran engine at 2000 it contues to eather run ruff or stall made a gasket to plug egr valve and tested it remained the same checked fuel psi 50 -60 psi 55/60 ideling ruff I have watched timing to see if it returned when coming back down to an idle and it returned ok also sometimes after reving to 3000 rpms then let it stall then I try to restart it will crank but no start let it sit 15 seconds then it will start and run ruff then smoth out dont mater if I turned the key to off before trying to restart eather also I have never had to add coolant 1 dtc cyl #2 misfire please help UP DATE IT IS FIXED WHAT HAPPEND IS THIS THE INJECTORS PLUGED UP REPLACED ALL INJECTORS BUT STALLING CONTUNED REMOVED CYL HEAD FOUND ALL EXHAUST VALVES SUCKED UP INTO HEAD AND SOME CRACKING OF THE HEAD ALL FROM RUNNING LEAN FROM PLUGED INJECTORS REMBER I DROVE IT WITH THE SHAKE / STALL 40,000 MILES I NEVER RECEVED ANY DTC FOR LEAN NOR DID I EVER OVERHEAT THE ENGINE HAD THE HEAD REPAIRED AND I INSTALLED IT NOW IT IS RUNNING LIKE NEW
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02charger
October 14, 2008.



Please check these out.

Inspect EGR Valve Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve.

Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits.

Inspect Leaking, worn, or damaged intake manifold gasket

Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank.

Inspect Idle Air Control Valve Damaged, loose, or faulty idle air control valve.

Inspect Idle Speed Control Actuator Damaged, loose, or faulty idle speed actuator.

Inspect MAP Sensor Improperly connected or faulty m.A.P. Sensor.

Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or damaged pcv valve.

Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit.

Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor.

Jnovack
Oct 14, 2008.
I am having the same problem I replaced the #2 cyl. Lifters also, did not fix. Wonder if it coud be a mass air fllow problem. If I get it figered out I will let you know!

Tiny
Mech115
Nov 8, 2008.
[quote=" mech115" ]i am having the same problem I replaced the #2 cyl. Lifters also, did not fix. Wonder if it coud be a mass air fllow problem. If I get it figered out I will let you know![/
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Tiny
02charger
Nov 8, 2008.
[A

Tiny
02charger
Nov 8, 2008.
Update note I have replaced 2 coil packs replaced the d.P.F.E.G.R sensor and replaced the engine control module NO FIX SAME STALLING I WAS THINKING OF MAF SENSOR BUT I UNPLUGED THE MAF AN THAT PUT IT INTO OPEN LOOP AND IT RAN THE SAME I AM THINKING CRANK SENSOR

Tiny
02charger
Nov 8, 2008.
TODAY I TRIED A MASS AIR, OFF A FREINDS RANGER DIDNT HELP. CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS AT INTAKE GASKETS WITH PROPANE AND BRAKE CLEAN. WAS THINKING ECM ALSO. THANKS FOR INFO ! THIS DOESN'T LEAVE US MUCH. BUT A CRANK SENSOR. BUT I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO SEE A PROBLEM WITH MY SCANNER. ?

Tiny
Mech115
Nov 9, 2008.
Update note I have replaced 2 coil packs replaced the d.P.F.E.G.R sensor and replaced the engine control module NO FIX SAME STALLING I WAS THINKING OF MAF SENSOR BUT I UNPLUGED THE MAF AN THAT PUT IT INTO OPEN LOOP AND IT RAN THE SAME I AM THINKING CRANK SENSOR[/quote: 2120c01a51] I was just thinking that maybe when I replaced my timing belt it was instaled one notch out on the oil pump the cam sensor is on this have you replaced your belt I know that the timing marks are hard to set up on this engine I would also think that if this was the case it would miss on all cyl

Tiny
02charger
Nov 9, 2008.
I was just wondering if you have cleaned your idle air control valve? My ranger was doing the opposite of what your is, it would run rough right after I started it and would run better as it warmed up. I took out the IAC valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner and it ran fine after that. On cold starts it should restrict the air flow into the intake, and should open more and more as the engine warms up. Mine was stuck open. I believe yours to be stuck close to shut. Hope this helps.

Tiny
Markinnewparis
Nov 9, 2008.
Replaced iac no change as stated but thanks for the info

Tiny
02charger
Nov 9, 2008.
Haven't read if you have checked the ignition control module and also check your coil pack

Jnovack
Nov 9, 2008.
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