1993 Ford Probe Bad Idle and cutting out

MO887680

MEMBER
1993 FORD PROBE
4 CYL
FWD
AUTOMATIC
230,000 MILES

I have this old Probe for a gas mileage car. It's always run a bit rough especially at idle speed but never cut out. But lately it did cut out and then won't start until I turn the key off and pump the gas for a bit. I'm seeing the fuel cut off light flicker before it dies. So, I thought maybe fuel pump. I tried the reset switch in the hatch. Nothing was tripped. I checked the fuel pump relay and swapped it with another. No luck. It runs pretty good at start up but after it gets warmed it'll start knocking and now does the cut out. Could it be fuel pump or maybe bad/dirty injectors? Maybe fuel filter? If fuel pump, I have to drop the tank to fix right. Any thoughts would be helpful. I'm donating $5 to your site. Thanks guys,

Mike

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 10:13 AM

14 Replies

LEGITIMATE007

MECHANIC
5,121 POSTS

Yes you will have to drop the tank to replace the pump. But first lets check a couple of other things. Fuel pressure regulator, and ignition. You can always check the injectors with noid lights /they're little led lights that flicker with injector pulse. Im gonna send you a couple of links so you can check those other things I mentioned

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:18 PM

LEGITIMATE007

MECHANIC
5,121 POSTS

Go here for ignition and spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:19 PM

LEGITIMATE007

MECHANIC
5,121 POSTS

And go here for fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm

let me know what happens

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 1:20 PM

MERLIN2021

MECHANIC
17,250 POSTS

The other thing you might want to look at, are there any codes? Check engine light on or flashing? Also test that inertia switch, it could be the reason the fuel keeps shutting down. Where does the KNOCK sound like it's comming from? The lower part of the engine, or the upper? Your knock sensor could be shutting the engine down, if you already have a mechanical problem with the motor, it will have to be repaired!

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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 2:18 PM

MO887680

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6 POSTS

Thanks guys. I'm going to check that ignition and fuel pressure first and get you some answers. BTW, the engine light does flicker on and off sometimes when driving. Not sure whether the knock is lower or upper in the motor but I'll check. And, if that inertia switch is tripping wouldn't it stay tripped until I pressed it? It wasn't tripped when I checked it.

Thanks

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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 8:25 AM

MERLIN2021

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This is to TEST the inertia. If it.S not functioning correctly it will do strange, not predictable things!

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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 1:12 PM

MERLIN2021

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Clearing codes, Carb models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds.
FI Models: Disconnect negative battery cable for ten seconds then press brake pedal five times.

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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 1:21 PM

MO887680

MEMBER
6 POSTS

I tested a few things. I changed the inertia switch (because it was easy) and the car started and then cut out again. So, I ruled that out. I couldn't find the fuel pressure testing port to check pressure but do smell fuel and see the plugs are wet. But, now after messing with this I can't get it to start at all anymore. I checked for spark and it has nothing at all now. I'm thinking that distributor (with the built in coil and module might be dead. I did double check that plugged everything back in correctly. What do you think? If I do change that distributor out out, is there a way to make sure that dist. Shaft is at the correct starting point (top dead center) to be sure the timing is on?

Thanks!
Mike

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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 12:38 PM

MO887680

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6 POSTS

I almost forgot, is there any way to test that Probe distributor to see if it actually is the problem before I buy one? Kind of stuck with it if I do buy it. Or, is there a good way to test the ignition to get a better idea of where the problem lies?

Thanks,
Mike

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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 2:09 PM

MERLIN2021

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Need the engine size for specific tests, other than the common test for spark, also if gas is not the problem, remove the fuel pump relay so you don't fill the motor with it!

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Thursday, May 15th, 2008 AT 12:41 PM

MO887680

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6 POSTS

Cool. It's the twin-cam 4-cylinder engine from the basic 1993 Probe. Good thought on the relay so I'm not pumping fuel into those cylinders. Thanks in advance.

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Thursday, May 15th, 2008 AT 1:41 PM

MERLIN2021

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Look on the VECI label under the hood it will give you the engine size in liters. There are 3 4 cylinder engines.

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Saturday, May 17th, 2008 AT 6:06 AM

MO887680

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Looks like the hood says it's a 121.5 Cu. In. I cross referenced that with the manual and it says this is a 2.0L. 16-valve 4 cylinder. And, this is the automatic transmission BTW. Sorry about that.

Thanks,
Mike

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Monday, May 19th, 2008 AT 10:06 AM

MERLIN2021