Mechanics

ABS BRAKE LIGHT

2003 Ford Explorer

Year: 2003
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Series: XLS
Bodystyle: Sport Utility
Engine: 4 L 6 cylinder
Mileage: 83152

I am a female who feels Midas Muffler is taking advantage of me! Need help knowing if they are. Here is a little background.

on 9/28/06 went to Midas and got the following done on the front end: Front brake pads, RF& LF rotors resurfaced. At that time, I was told the rotors had " MINIMAL" damage and did not necessarily need to be resurfaced, but it was a good idea. So I had it done.

About 1 month later, the steering wheel would shake when I would start to brake, and the brakes would squeek badly. I called Midas and was assured everything was fine. I waited until April to take it back in. Took the day off work, went to Midas. They told me they could not fit me in at all, but the manager drove my car around the block and said he believed it was the rear rotors needing to be re-surfaced. He said I would be fine for a while.

Took the car in on 6/23/07 at 8: 30 AM. Left the car there. At 2: 30 in the afternoon I was finally called and told that my front rotors were warped and needed to be replaced. They would replaced the rotors, warranty the brakepads, bleed the line and rotate my tires (for free, as a courtesy). Total: $500. At 3: 40 I got the call saying the car was done, and to come and pick it up. Oh and by the way, we close at 4 so you need to be here by then (it was a Saturday). I live in Sacramento, CA. NO WAY was I able to get there by the time they closed due to traffic. THANK YOU MIDAS for giving me plenty of warning. Had NO CAR until MONDAY!

Then, on July 4th. My ABS light came on. In all the years I have had this car, I have NEVER had that light go on. At the same time, I could hear a somewhat grinding noise when I applied the brakes.

I called Midas and the manager told me there was no way what they did had anything to do with the ABS light coming on.

On 7/10 I was driving on the freeway and went to push on the brakes and I hear this horrible loud noise (much like a conveyor being stuck?) And the brakes seemed to lock. For that quick moment, the ABS light went OFF and immediately came back on. I freaked out and I took it back into Midas. They looked at the car. Again, initial inspection told them there was no default from their installation or work on the brakes. OH. By the way, your rear differential is looking suspicious. So, for $120 we can put your car on the computer and see what it says. That does not include service or repair, just the scan. I declined.

I drove away from Midas and I SWEAR my breaks are working better. The grinding noise I heard is gone and when I push the pedal it is stiff again.

I went and BOUGHT my own OBD II AutoScanner and hooked it up to my car last night. The scan passed. There were NO PROBLEMS according to my scanner.

I am unsure of what to do next. My ABS light is on. Is it possible the OBD Scanner is wrong? Why would it not pick up on the ABS light?

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
Avatar
Kinikailolu
July 11, 2007.



Hi! Well yes and no on the being taken. Here is my 1/2 cent worth of advice.

After learning what I have about cars over the last 40 years, I will never take a car and have the rotor turned. Why? Well, for one thing the removal of the metal makes the brakes more liable to heat and warp. The other reason is that for not a whole lot more you can replace them with new. If you had put new rotors on from the start they probably wouldn't have had to do anything again.

The grinding noise I can't speak on. The ABS is unlikely that they did anything. There is a time for everything. Do you have a voltohm meter? They are very cheap and for about $10 you can by a digital one, not metered one. Now, each wheel has a speed sensor on it. It is a magnet that reads wheel speed and reports it to the ABS system. The sensor is wired to a connector near each wheel. I would unplug them and test each with the ohm meter. If they they all show resistance it is another item in the ABS but it is likely that one of them has failed. It will not read anything and leave the ohm meter at 1. The others might take it to about 800 or so. Check in to the sensor. You can then replace yourself or have it done.

Bruce Hunt
Jul 11, 2007.