1996 Ford Explorer Shaking btwn 35 and 50 mph

Tiny
AMYRGANG
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 146,000 MILES
About a month ago, my dad replaced the wheel bearings, upper and lower ball joints, spark plugs (but not harness), and the air filter. Everything was good, and I put a couple thousand miles on the SUV.
Today, hundreds of miles from home, the truck started making a sporadic, non-constant staccato popping noise, much like a bottle rocket going off. I was unable to tell where it was coming from, as it only happened while I was driving and stopped when I was in park. It did not recur when I revved the engine in park. After about 15 mins, it stopped. A couple hours later, I was driving and noticed that the car hasda bit of a shake felt thru the steering wheel from about 35-50 mph. I did not have a chance to go much faster, so I am unsure if the shaking would return at 60 mph. I detached the spark plug wires one by one, but did not find one that was obviously bad. Any ideas?

Part Two - The STUPID driver's side door lock will NOT unliock with the keyless entry OR with the key. The only way I have found to open the door is by reaching around from the back driver's side door. THIS WILL DRIVE ME CRAZY. It also does not lock, although I can push it down to lock it. The lock/unlock switch inside on the driver's side locks all the other doors, but does not do anything when I push unlock. Any ideas on this?
Friday, May 22nd, 2009 AT 11:39 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
First thing you need to do is have the codes read, Autozone does it free, Post the results with the code number(s). Even if the service engine light is not on, there should be freeze frame data stored.
If it won't make it to Autozone, buy a cheap scanner, they can be had for 30-40 dollars, a good investment, since they cover all cars sold in the USA from 96 on.
If the light is blinking, it means possible damage to the converter. Service it right away!
As for the door lock, the most common problem is the actuator, it's the electrical motor that pops the lock open and shut, test the wires with a test light or voltmeter while activating the switch, if it has power, replace the actuator.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2009 AT 5:53 AM
Tiny
MIKEMANIS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The shaking is due to unbalanced tires
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2009 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Is the poping noise the tires too?
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2009 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
AMYRGANG
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Well, I had someone take a look at it today and everything is basically fine, although they said the driveshaft bushing (?) May be getting worn and that might be the shaking I felt. Apparently, I should call the shaking more of a vibrating btwn 35-50, because to people that aren't me it's apparently not a big deal. What should I be looking for to tell if this bushing gets worse (more shaking? Noises?), How long til they typically break, and is that an expensive fix?

The shop could not reproduce the popping sound at all.

Thank you!
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2009 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
There are two technical bullitens on these trucks, but only if they have the 5.0 V8, you say yours has a 4.0 V6?
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Sunday, May 24th, 2009 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
AMYRGANG
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Yeah, mine's the V6. They may have said "driveshaft bearing" instead of bushing. Does that make any difference? The shaking got significantly worse last night.
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Sunday, May 24th, 2009 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
On the 5.0 V8's the TSB says to replace the driveshaft, on the 4.0 there is a new vent tube for the transfer case. Seems water gets into the case and causes a chatter problem, have them check the transfer case fluid as well!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_vent_Tube_1.jpg

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2009 AT 3:06 PM

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