Engine won't start and run?

Have you had the vehicle checked for any engine codes, is the check engine light on. Before you have another fuel pump replace , have some one actually check the fuel pressure . It seems you may have a possible crank sensor issue but I can't tell for sure because i am unable to verify the concern. Have the vehicle checked for code . It seems like you've waisted a lot of time and money replacing thing that that are way out of the norm. Its hard to diagnose intermittent issues . I could be a bad wire that seperates when it gets hot. This issue may take time and someone very skillful with electrical and electronics see if you have any code I'm the memory program or pending program. Than have the actual fuel pressure checked while it won't start if fuel pressure is good fuel pump is good. Then have them check for injector pulse , if there is no pulse you may have a bad crank sensor. I have seen then cause this type of issue . But testing has to be done while symptom accures. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

my 1996 ford explorer wont start after being driven for a while. let it sit for a while then it starts right up

Check the EEC relay under the hood. Switch it with another relay with the same part number to see if the vehicle shifts.

If that doesn't work, check for spark and fuel to the engine. One should be missing.

1996 Ford Explorer, 186,000 mi, 4.0, 4x4. runs good, sometimes after running for a while and I shut the car off it doesn't want to start. It cranks but it has a bad miss and if it does start the engine is like it's way out of time and then will die. If I wait about 30 min and try again it fires right up, no problem untill the next time. It doesn't do it all the time. Computer check when the check engine light comes on says the fuel is lean.

Check fuel pump pressure when this happens. Also, switch the EEC relay in the power distribution box with a different relay with the same part number. One last thing, check the crank sensor if everything else checks good.

Electrical problem
1996 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic

engine cranks over but will not start.

first you need three things for the vehicle to start.

fuel, ignition, compression.

since i doubt its compression if the vehicle was running just fine untill you tryed to start it one day we can rule that out for now.

next step is to check for fuel pressure and the presence of ignition at all cylinders.

you can do this by dumping some gas down the throttle body and starting it.

About 3 weeks ago I've been having some problems with my truck. It first started on the freeway when I press the gas at highway spped, it would not accellerate, it sounded like a bogging sound. After a quick rolling ignition off and recrank, it worked. The problem got progressively worse. Finally a code came up saying that the coolent temp was too low for cold loop fuel control. Then I'd have problems starting - usually started alright, but immediately idled rough, until it died. 2 or 3 restarts were required before it would idle correctly - and even then, after a warm up, the car would still not want to accelerate when I pressed the gas. During this time - when in Netural, and tried to accelerate, the RPM's would only reach about 3500 or so before making the bogging sound. A few more restarts then all worked well. Now, the truck will not start at all. Fuel pump works, engine cranks strong, but no turn over. I am very fustrated. Anyone have any insite on this problem?? Thanks in advance.

This problem can be caused by a few things. Judging from your description, I would look at the catalytic converters. Have them flow tested to see if they are clogged--sounds like they are. However a clogged cat converter is usually the result of raw--unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust system. Check the spark plugs for wear,and/or, too wide of a gap.

Thanks for the info - I'll get it checked out and let you know....

Ok, let us know--good luck.

I guess I thought I heard my Fuel pump whirring when I turned the key to the start position, but now I can't - I confirmed this with my ear to the tank while my wife turned the key. Can I run a temp battery cable to the fuel pump to test if it works, also can I test the FP relay in the engine compartment? i believe it had 4 posts on the relay. basically - how can I test if I need a new pump rather than a filter?

1996 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic 225689 miles

It has around 225689.......I don't usually have a problem starting it in the mornings but I have gotten to work and needed to move it and it wouldn't start back up. I only drive it about 4 miles to work....3 of which are on the expressway.
My husband put a screwdriver to the spark plug and someone turn it over and said it wasn't getting any fire. I've had someone tell me they thought it was my control module. Well it's not sitting in the parking lot at work where I shut it off at 6:00am this morning. My husband tried to star it again a few minutes ago and it still wouldn't start and it is mow 12:35am.
It has never been this long before so I'm guessing whatever it is seems to have gone out completely. Hate to start replacing parts that don't need to be. Any suggestions on where to start and how to go about it????? Help would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Thank You

Hi TAC 96, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

For what engine 4.0 or 5.0 liter???

No ignition spark: Inspect and test the following, coil packs, ignition control module and crankshaft position sensor

You ask me what size engine.....it is a 4.0 liter
My check engine light has been on for several years....I was told that was a sensor that went out and that it would hurt anything just pay closer attention to everything. Which I always do.....like ANY new or different type of noise.... I could afford to replace it at the time and it was unfortunately kinda forgotten about........
Are those things you said to ckeck hard to get to? Do you know if auto parts store can test them or would they need to be taken to a Ford dealer??

Try the crankshaft position sensor 1st which is located centered in lower front of engine compartment

Thank you we will check it first. Will I need any special tools to remove the crankshaft sensor or the other two that you recommended checking. Do auto part stores test them for you or will I need to take it to a Ford dealer to have it tested? Sorry to be such a pain but I'm asking all these questions in case I'm left to take care of the problem on my own.... Which if he has trouble getting it figured out and gets aggregated and fed up (which won't take much, he's already sick of dealing with it!) I will have to do this myself and I'm no machanic nor can I afford a machanic. These are the reason I ask so many detailed questions. I just want to be able to fix my explorer which I love....Thank you soooo very much for your time and definately for your patience with me. You are GREATLY appreciated!!!!!

It depends on the auto part store if they have the right testing equipment won't hurt to try. Use a digital multimeter to check/test the crankshaft position sensor voltage/resistances as for the coil and ICM you can bring it in

Testing the CPS:

https://www.2carpros.com/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&t=482055&sid=b3ada8c88fa2d9c62c4c5514168f6517

In the past year I have had to start putting the key into the start position and waiting to hear for the fuel pump to engage before turning the engine over. Recently, if I drive my car anywhere the engine feels hot and it won't start for about 2-3 hours after. I can drive it to someplace but have to wait a while before trying to start the car again.

I have drained the transmission fluid, do regular oil changed, fuel filter changed, oil filters, air filter, etc.
I have changed out the spark plugs and spark plug wires for new ones within the last year.
I replaced the crank shaft sensor.
I had the fuel line pressure checked and it was fine and the fuel pump was fine.
I put a new thermostat in a few days ago, check engine light went off, but it's still starting only when it wants to.
Checked the fuses and everything looked good there.
I had a small leak in my radiator and used "silver seal" in it to stop it up until I have the money for a new radiator.

Any advice on what I'm missing that could cause it to start only when it wants to?

Have you checked the EEC relay?

I have tried to find it and can't. I looked in my cars manaul and did not find it in the fuse listings. Where would it be at?

It should be under the hood in the relay block (power distribution box) I believe it is on the passanger side.

Let me know if you find it.

Joe

I found the fuse box, and the power distribution box. It's not in either of those (3 big relays and an array of fuses). The only thing close was the fuel pump relay. I found another box next to by battery in the wall just above the wheel well but none are listed (2 bigger relays and 4 medium sized ones). I swapped out the relays but that didn't do anything different.

I found the blown relay. It was in another box under the air filter on the passenger side. Thanks!!!

Did it take care of the problem?

My vehicle won't start, I've checked the Battery, Alternator, fuel pump, and also the fuses. I'm not sure why it won't start. The engine would turn and it sounds as if no fuel is being delivered. It has over a quarter of a tank of gas. I haven't checked the starter and I was told that the timing chain may be broken. How could I go about figuring this out...?

you could pull a bunch of covers to see if the timing marks are lining up, or if the cam is moving at all. If not, it would be the timing. But the fuel pump comes to mind on this one. Do me a favor. Open the gas cap, have a buddy put his ear on it as you turn the key to the on position. Does it make a sound now that you turned the key just to on?

1996 ford explorer 4.0L V6 pushrod engine. I am pretty sure it is the cam sensor but since this seems to require pulling the intake i want to be sure. The fuel pump will stop running and the vehicle will die then a few hours later it will start right up only to die again shortly to a few days later. I have ran an OBD2 scan with no codes. i have pulled the pump, since this is what i originally thought was wrong the first time it happened put power to it and it ran fine so i reistalled it and the vehicle fired right up then died again a few days later.

check fuel pressure while running and safter stopping engine to see if it holds pressure. Should be 35-45 ke off30-40engine running at idle. also check connections as they may be bad or have corrosion. you can also check crank sensor as this can cause it as well.

No pressure at the rails when it dies it runs fine when it restarts. it has spark but no fuel pressure. on this vehicle the crank sensor controls Ignition timing and the cam sensor controls Fuel injector timing, when there is no signal from the cam sensor the fuel pump will not run. i just want to be as sure as i can that its not something else before i pull the intake to do this since the gaskets for the intake are about $100.

correction it has pressure when it dies just will not rebuild pressure since the pump is not running in a no start condition.

well you can see if power is being relayed to the fuel pump when it does this. also the cam sensor goes to the pcm and the pcm may have a bad connection not sending to the fp. One other thing to check is the inertia fuel shutoff switch behind kick panel.

The inertia switch has never been set off but i suppose checking for power to and from the inertia switch when it does it would be a good idea. so if im correct if the cam sensor is bad when the engine stalls i wont have power to the inertia switch.

you also wouldn't have power to the pcm

Ok now im stumped, i was trying to get the car to die again, which it wouldn't, so i unplugged the cam sensor and it ran fine without it.

in the power distribution box there is afuel pum prelay check that for good connections as well as corrosion. from there it goes to the pcm and #40 sends the signal to the pcm #80 goes from teh pcm to the pump. anyone of those places could be a bad connection. but you have to find out where the car is not getting power to the fuel pump first. good luck on this one it sounds like a screwed up wiring harness someplace.
Fuel Pump, Electric — Explorer

The multiport fuel injection (MFI) system uses a fuel delivery module with integral reservoir. The module is a reservoir which also houses the pump and valving. This design provides satisfactory
operation during extreme vehicle maneuvers and steep vehicle climbing with low tank fill levels.

The fuel pump (9350) is mounted inside the module/reservoir assembly inside the fuel tank (9002). This assembly includes a check valve which is in the outlet of the fuel pump. The function of this valve
is to maintain pressure in the system after the vehicle is shut down. The pressure retention helps prevent hot starting problems. This fuel pump is capable of supplying 95 liters (25 gallons) of fuel per
hour at 310 kPa (45 psi). The fuel pump has an internal pressure relief valve which limits the maximum fuel pump pressure to 850 kPa (125 psi). This only takes effect if there is a system blockage,
causing system pressure to rise too high. The system pressure is controlled by a pressure regulator on the engine (6007).

The fuel pump is protected at its inlet by a nylon pickup element. This nylon element filters dirt and contaminants which could plug or damage the internal pump components while at the same time
allowing passage of small quantities of water which may accumulate within the fuel tank sump.

The electrical system has a fuel pump control relay controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650), which provides power to the fuel pump under various operating conditions. When
the ignition switch (11572) is in the OFF position, the contacts of the PCM power and fuel pump relays are open.

When the ignition switch is first turned to the ON position, the PCM power relay is energized, closing its contacts. Power is provided to both the fuel pump relay and a timing device in the powertrain
control module. The fuel pump runs through the contacts of the fuel pump relay and the inertia fuel shutoff switch (IFS switch) (9341). If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the
timing device in the powertrain control module will open the relay ground circuit (No. 926 LB/O) to the relay after approximately one second.

Opening the ground circuit de energizes the fuel pump relay (opening its contacts), which turns the fuel pump off. This circuitry provides for pre pressurization of the fuel system.

When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, the powertrain control module grounds the fuel pump relay to provide fuel for starting the engine while cranking.

After the engine starts, the ignition switch is returned to the ON position, and power to the fuel pump is again supplied through the fuel pump relay. The powertrain control module senses engine speed
and shuts off the fuel pump by opening the ground circuit to the fuel pump relay when the engine stops or is below 120 rpm.

also has the fuel filter ever been changed? I have no further suggestions on this.

Every line in your last comment was cut off on the right side but i got the just of it. Thanks for your help im going to drive it around tomorrow and hope it dies in a nice shady spot and put an electrical tester on all of these points and hope i can figure it out soon

Ok i replaced the fuel pump with no result. Im starting to wonder if the PCM is bad but im still not sure. I have power to the fuel pump even with the key off but the pump still does not run even with a new working pump

there should be no power to pump when the key is off, try disconnecting the fuel pupmp relay inthe power dist box if you still have power then you have a short someplace.

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Ford Explorer V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 200k miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Thought it was the fuelpump. Ck'd a few things, found nothing, it set for a week then started. Drove for three days and won't start. Change fuel filter, nothing. I have a meter and am good with electrical. Would a fuel pump stop working then start working again,then stop? I am trying everything else before dropping the fuel tank. Crank sensor had alot of oil around it, cleaned, nothing.
Any ideas? You have a great troubleshooting guide, thanks.