Heater wont work?

Okay, I have a few questions. First, is the engine running at a normal operating temp? Second, with the engine hot, running, and the heater on, do both heater core hoses get hot? Is the coolant full? You mentioned the AC doesn't work either. Is the fan not working? This guide and video can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

and

https://youtu.be/SNRb6pSwYuU

Let me know.

Joe
PS: Happy New Year! And don't worry, we'll get heat.

Hi:
First, thank you for the positive votes. Please let me know the outcome to the questions I sent you so I know what direction to point you toward.

I hope you have a safe and happy new year, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

a/c heater unit does not turn on all it has is ac lights
but no power to the buttons every thing else is good working order

Okay, if the blower motor doesn't turn on, it could be the result of a few things. We need to first determine if the motor is getting power. It is located under the dash on the passanger side. Check to see if there is power to the motor and let me know what you find.

Joe

igot hot water going to the fire wall but only blows cold air

Are both heater core hoses hot?

[quote:7836faa1de="Jacobandnickolas"]Are both heater core hoses hot?[/quote:7836faa1de]

yes they are

If both are hot and you get no heat, then the blend door isn't working. It is located near the heater core and determines if you get AC or heat.

Have that checked and repaired.

Heater problem
1996 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic
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Was having problems with the Heater. Anyway I put a new thermostat in but the heater kept blowing cold air. Then after driving there was steam
on the paasenger side of the engine compartment
and the smell of cooking radiator fluid. Anyway I have traced it to this device that is not in Chilton's. It is the leaking culprit but I don't know what to call it. It has four coolant hoses hooked to it, it has a little arm that appears to move when the heater is turned to defrost, and has I think a vacuum line hooked to it.
I need the name of it can't seem to identify it. Can you assist?

Sounds like you're talking about the heater control valve.

Heater control valve has 4 water hook-ups, water control valve has three.

About 20.00 dollars.

put new door bend on and now heater only throws out cold air, also put new thermostat

It is probably an air vent door that is not moving. I believe your year uses elctriclal actuators so the motor may need replacement or the door may be broken. The air box is where it is located, under dash from center to blower motor.

I am also giving you a walk through diagnsotic for your situation. Just use the link below to get to it;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

OK still need help. This is quite baffling and I am afraid to pay for them to troubleshoot.
Just replaced Thermostat again, just in case the other one was bad.

So..
-New Thermostat
-New heater control valve
-Heater core has been blown out
-New heat switch in cab (blue to red dial, replaced the switch behind dial)

Blower works fine and in all postions.
Don't think it is the accuator door because when turning the dial(blue to red) you can hear the door opening/closing. AND you can feel the difference in the air temp from cool to ice cold.

I have NO leakage, NO antifreeze smell, NO condensation/frost on inside windows when cold or maild/rainy.

Just have NO heat at all coming out.

Is it possible that there is a sensor gone? And if so, any idea which one and where it would be located?

I would recommend rechecking the thermostat again I've been fooled by new ones before and make sure the cooling system is bleed thoroughly-could be air lock causing it.

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.

hav a 1996 ford explorer and the heat went out so they said i need to replace the blendor....so they hav had it for awhile and i called today and he said he couldnt get the box apart to get the door out... i went down there and i see that you are able to take the box apart i see the tabs what else could this guy be missing i dont want him to break this or im out another 300 dollars

Does he not have access to factory repair manuals?
Maybe the box does not need to come apart. Sometimes these things are tough to figure out without the right guidance. I don't have access to Ford factory service manuals.
I found information that leads me to believe, it may be easier to repair using an aftermarket kit called a, "Heater Treater". I looked at the box and I think you would have to bend the door and risk breaking the posts that the door swings on, which is probably what is broken now.

I think this is something to look into and maybe the easiest way to fix the problem. Hopefully the door can be sent back, but special order parts rarely can be refunded.
From what I have seen, I would try to flex the door and pop it into place. It would not hurt to do it on a hot day to reduce the possibility of breaking it. If you are stuck with it and can't get the Ford Factory Service manual instructions, you will have to way out the options.
Try to call the dealership it was purchased through and ask if they can print out the applicable pages from a service manual. You might have to do this as your mechanic will have little or no chance at getting help.
Some ammo you might use to get the pages copied;
I guess my question would be, "If the part is a Ford factory part, they would not sell it if it were not serviceable. They would sell the entire box."
I hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out.

When the is turned on I am not getting any heat inside the vehicle,but the heater hoses are hot.

Probably bad blend door actuator.

are you sure its the heater core hoses not the upper and lower radiator hose?

The heater in my Explorer works intermittently. It blows out cold air and the temperature gauge rises to the red, indicating that it's trying to overheat. Also the temperature gauge needle fluctuates dramatically, like a bobber in water. The thermostat has just been replaced and antifreeze was added. It is still doing the same thing. This is about the third thermostat that has been installed in the past three years. This time it is not doing the trick.

Try removing the thermostat and see what happens to the temperature-

Also did you bleed out the cooling system?

Above don't work do a block and pressure tests to confirm there's no combustion gas leakage.

Heater problem
1996 Ford Explorer 4 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic

What could be the problem as to why my heat isn't working. I had my thermostat fixed but there still isn't not heat.

I need you to check something. With the engine running, hot, and the heater on, feel both heater core hoses to see if they are both hot.

Let me know what you find.

Joe