ford obd1 codes? CEhck engine light on?

Hello, Here are a couple diagrams for retrieving codes...

=============================================== Auto Repair Manual - How to read codes (No Special Tools Needed) 1 Ensure the engine and oxygen sensor is up to operating temperature. 2 Turn the ignition OFF. 3 Connect an LED tester or Voltmeter, (Click here for details) to points labelled A and B on the diagram 4 Use a wire link to connect terminals as shown on the diagram. 5 Start Engine. 6 The fault codes will be shown on the LED tester or Voltmeter connected. 7 Read codes as described in the Code Format Description below. 8 Press the continue button to enter the code numbers and get the code description. asd Connector Diagram

Tips: Single pin connector is grey in colour. ================================================== Ford KOER diagram above is described as follows "¢ Engine Running ID Code. Number of reflects cylinders in vehicle. (diagram shows a 6 cylinder vehicle) 2 = 4 Cylinders 3 = 6 Cylinders 4 = 8 Cylinders 5 = 7.3L Diesel "¢ If the vehicle is equipped with a Brake On/Off (BOO) switch, the brake pedal must be depressed and released after the ID Code is transmitted. "¢ If the vehicle is equipped with a Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS), the steering wheel must be turned atleast 1/2 turn and released within 2 seconds after the engine ID Code is transmitted. "¢ If the vehicle is equipped with the E4OD transmission, the Overdrive Cancel Switch (OCS) must be sycled after the engine ID Code is transmitted. "¢ A 6-20 second pause. "¢ A single flash indicates the Dynamic Test Responce Code. When observed briefly take the engine to wide open throttle. "¢ A 4-15 second pause. during this time ignore any quick flashs that may occur. "¢ Fault code 132. (vehicle will either emmitt 2 or 3 digit codes) "¢ A 4 second pause seperates next Hard Fault Code.

smog test fail for this reason.

Welcome to 2CarPros. So the light doesn't come on when you first turn on the key? Or it comes on but they couldn't command it on with the tester?
In the first one I would suspect a blown bulb. Some have a replaceable bulb while others are soldered into place on the inside of the cluster.

The light doesn't come on when you first turn on the key. the smog tech said the bulb needs to be replaced.
My question is, is there instructions on how to replace it?
Please help!!

Removing the cluster so you can get to the bulbs easier isn't hard. If you look at the image attached to the first post.
The first thing is do disconnect the negative battery cable.
The next is to remove the ashtray and it's retainer.
Next you need to remove the trim panel. It snaps into place with metal retainer clips. Be very careful with this as the plastic is brittle.
Now remove the screws that retain the instrument cluster.
Gently pull the cluster out of the dash. Disconnect the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors. How you will need to replace the bulbs. For that it will depend on which cluster you have. Some have simple twist sockets for the bulbs, others have the bulbs soldered inside them, for those you need to open the cluster and remove the old ones and solder in the replacements. For that you might find a video online showing how the cluster comes apart. The references we use don't go that far in repairs.

Help!! I'm experiencing a problem with a 1993 Ford Explorer. Problem: Vechicle runs rough with black smoke emitting from exhaust. Check engine light comes on intermittantly, however when hooked up to a diagnostic device, no fault codes are stored or any data is displayed. Please advise what could be causing this. Thanking you in advance for a reply.

try scanning for codes with engine running, computer might not store codes but it should display them when the light comes on. had a ford tempo that didnt store codes if the problem fixed itself, I could only get codes with the light on.

1993 Ford Explorer 4.0 L engine, two wheel drive 143000 miles, rebuilt at 100000. Check engine light comes on at idle and deceleration. Light goes off under freeway conditions and under heavy acceleration. No visible smoke present. Everyone I talk to has a different idea on source of problem. Having a hard time finding someone with a OBD I scanner to attempt to retrieve code. Any common solutions before I invest in an OBD I reader that I will probably use only one time?

Thanks

i have a similar problem... did you find any solutions?.. ecgrant (loucgrant@aol.com)

Yes - After changing both Oxygen Sensors, ($105) (one on each exhaust pipe behind the manifold), replacing the EGR Valve, ($47) and EGR Vacuum Solenoid, ($65) all without correcting the problem I ended up purchasing an OBD I Code Reader at the auto parts store for $29. I should have done that first, it would have saved me a couple hundred bucks.

The codes came up to replace the Fuel Pump Relay, ($6) (located in the fuse/relay box under the hood on the passenger side), and the EGR Valve Sensor, ($57) (rectanguler metal box with one plug and two small hoses, mounted to a bracket on the intake manifold, drivers side, directly behind and slightly above the A/C compressor).

After spending an entire day turning wrenches and driving to the auto parts store for parts that didn't fix the problem, the correct fix only took about 15 minutes. I would try the Fuel Pump Relay and EGR Valve Sensor first, they are easy to get to and relatively cheap. Good Luck.

my 93 ford explorer xlt cuts in and out like its not getting fuel when i accelerate in gear. if i barely accelerate it runs normally. When it cuts out the car is still running but i lose rpm for a few seconds then it will kick on and the engine revs and i gain speed. it does this over and over and the check engine light comes on and off.

Hello, It sounds like it could be a couple different things, so you will need to pull codes and post them here in forum. Follow proceedure below.... 1.Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step. 2.Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds. 3.Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. 4.Turn the ignition key "ON". 5.Record all codes received. 6.Turn ignition "OFF". or

Where is the DLC and STI located?

Hello, I'm Danny.

You've attached you question to one that is years old.You need to start a new question include your vehicle information. Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

We look forward to hearing back from you and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

After 20 minutes of driving, check engine light comes on. When you stop driving and shut off the engine, it then again comes on after 20 minutes of driving and uses excessive fuel.

Hi there,

There will be a set fault code stored in the ECU memory, this will give you and indication as to where the problem is, get a scan done and check the code.

mark (mhpautos)

I purchased a code reader for my 1991 Ford Explorer XLT and can't seem to find where to plug it in. Can someone describe where to plug it in. A picture or diagram would be very helpful. Thanks

It's in the right rear of the engine bay...it's called the self test connector

Thanks, Found it.

OK!

check engine light on. It runs good, starts good.. what are causes for this alert all in a sudden?

Good morning,

You need to have the code scanned. You can have this done at a parts store for free. Once I know the code, I can further help you.

There are over 2,000 codes and that is why we need the exact code.

Roy

where is the plug in for computer?

Hello,

Here is a link to an article from this site that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to scan for codes yourself:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Thank you for using 2CarPros.

Renee

The connector is under the hood left side, back by the firewall. I attached a diagram of the connector.


Roy