1997 Ford Escort LX 1.6 16v Zetec
When starting with engine stone cold it starts first time but after 15 to 30 seconds it labours and stops.
If I turn the key straight away it won't fire for about 20 seconds then when it does start I have to try and keep it going until the engine gets a bit of heat in it then it's fine and runs perfect.I always thought that it reminded me of an older car that has a choke and you switch it off too soon so the mixture isn't rich enough but I was told by an engine tuning firm that it's deposits built up on a valve stem and thats why it starts ok but as the valve stem expands with heatthe deposits make it stick and the engine labours and stops.Then after the engine warms a bit and the valve hole expands it frees the valve and the engine operates normal once again until the next cold start.He said it would cost £500 to remove the cylender head,remove the valves and clean them.
It's a lot of money I can't aford.Was their diagnosis correct?
When starting with engine stone cold it starts first time but after 15 to 30 seconds it labours and stops.
If I turn the key straight away it won't fire for about 20 seconds then when it does start I have to try and keep it going until the engine gets a bit of heat in it then it's fine and runs perfect.I always thought that it reminded me of an older car that has a choke and you switch it off too soon so the mixture isn't rich enough but I was told by an engine tuning firm that it's deposits built up on a valve stem and thats why it starts ok but as the valve stem expands with heatthe deposits make it stick and the engine labours and stops.Then after the engine warms a bit and the valve hole expands it frees the valve and the engine operates normal once again until the next cold start.He said it would cost £500 to remove the cylender head,remove the valves and clean them.
It's a lot of money I can't aford.Was their diagnosis correct?
Jan 24, 2010 at 11:13 AM

