Check engine light turns on after engine has warmed up, but turns off when accelerating and turns on again when braking

I tryed using the link you sent me to update my problem but it woulddn't work.

Here is my problem more clearly. I was referring to the starter solenoid when I should be referring to the relay that is mounted next to the battery. I forgot to watch how I removed the wires and now my system is not charging. I just replaced the starter and alternator and the gause is showing it is not charging.

The wires I have going to the relay are a red one that is connected together with another one and a gray wire and two yellow wires. The ignition switch only has one terminal so I got it right. If these are not connected properly would that keep it from charging? The check engine light came on also

I recently picked up this work van that has been sitting for two year. It starts fine but has a miss at idle and going down the road. 5.8 94 Club Wagon. I pulled one plug to inspect for corrision but found it ok. If I took the van to auto zone for example could they place a code reader on it and pin point the problem? Finally does this vehicle even have a place for a scanner since it is a 94

Engine Performance problem
1992 Ford E-Series Van 6 cyl Automatic 190000 miles

check engine light is on all the time running rough what could be the the problem.

1992 ford E-series Thank You for Your Help

My son recently purchased a Ford E350 van, which seemesto run fine, but the check engine light flickers when accelerating at low speeds -- when he presses the gas pedal up to 20 mph. We didn;t notice this when we test drove the vehicle during the day, but it's noticeable at night.

1989 ford econoline van e150. With only 64400 miles
check engine light never goes out.
Any suggestions?

My 1988 Ford e150 overheats, throttle high at idle and surges while driving, intermittent check engine light. Fault codes 12, 21, 34, 44, 13. Removing vacuum from MAP brings idle down. Not sure where to go from here. Thank you.

I flushed and fixed the radiator (had a leak), changed the thermostat, new radiator cap, and checked all the vacuum lines. The engine gets hot really fast, and just before it gets into the red zone, it stays there. Seems to coincide with the throttle opening. If I take the vacuum line off the MAP sensor while idling, the throttle goes back to normal. The check engine light starts flashing intermittently.

No coolant loss, water pump okay. No water in the oil or from exhaust. I don't know exactly what to do to correct the error codes. Do I need to replace the ect, and or egr? What is the cause of the air injection failure?