1979 Ford E-Series Van Repair Question
1979 Ford E-Series Van backup light switch and turn signal
1979 Ford E-Series Van V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic
i have been told that my backup light switch needs replacing. is this the same as/on the neutral safety switch? where can i get a replacement?
Also need a turn signal switch assembly. Where can i find one.
would these work;
Yes to question one, and you should be able to get them at any parts store. Have you tried with no success?
Thank you all. have now found (expensive) parts.
I'm glad you found them... not so happy that they are expensive. Let me know if you have other questions.
Thanx for help. Inspection found loose left front tie rod. Not enough to fail, though. Notice a bit of 'drift' when driving - need to correct steering quite often. Not too bad though. Should this be fixed now or wait till it gets worse?
How much would you estimate it would be to repair? Could I do it with a jack and wrenches?
Another question re brakes;
Had to get new front rotors. Told them to also replace pads if less than 50% while it was all apart. They said they tried to replace but couldn't get new pads into calipers because the pistons were hard to retract. They left the old ones in and now the brakes don't work as well as before. The brake pedal goes in three quarters to floor and mushy feeling. Feels like maybe the new rear brakes doing the work. Taking it back but what do you think. Needs new calipers? They road tested and said the brake travel should improve as the pads needed to seat. Is this correct? hasn't improved so far (haven't driven much since). Is this negligence on part of mechanic (it was closing time and believe they just wanted van out of there)? All this was in order to pass a provincial safety inspection, no less! Brake job cost $610 and brakes were better before work. Any advice?
Actually, a tie rod isn't that hard to replace. Sometimes with older vehicles, they get rusted and are hard to remove. All you need are basic wrenches, a tie rod spliter (to seperate the tie rod from the steering knuckle) and I would recommend a tape measure. Measure the length of the tie rod from the end to where it bolts on. You want to replace the new one as far in as the original one. Otherwise, your alignment will be out (toe in / out).
You should replace a tie rod when they start getting bad like this. If they come apart, you will lose control of the steering. Also, they will cause the vehicle to wonder on the road and premature tire wear.
Let me know if you have other qiestions.
Another question re brakes;
Had to get new front rotors. Told them to also replace pads if less than 50% while it was all apart. They said they tried to replace but couldn't get new pads into calipers because the pistons were hard to retract. They left the old ones in and now the brakes don't work as well as before. The brake pedal
goes in three quarters to floor and mushy feeling. Feels like maybe the new rear brakes doing the work. Taking it back but what do you think. Needs new calipers? They road tested and said the brake travel should improve as the pads needed to seat. Is this correct? hasn't improved so far (haven't driven much since). Is this negligence on part of mechanic (it was closing time and believe they just wanted van out of there)? All this was in order to pass a provincial safety inspection, no less! Brake job cost $610 and brakes were better before work. Any advice?
Wow! I don't know where you live, but here you can get front and rear brakes installed for around 175 to 200.00. I get the pad for around 15 bucks with a lifetime warranty.
As far as the calipers, I find it hard to believe he couldn't compress the pistons. I wonder if it tried opening the bleeder to see it that helped. That is the proper way to do it so the old fluid comes out and there is no chance of damage to the master cylender. Also, if the rubber brake hose to the caliper is deteriated inside, I've seen situations where fluid would pass one way and not the other. Opening the bleeder would have answered that question.
As far as the low brake pedal. if the caliper didn't move, the front brakes shold still be where they were before. If I had to guess, I would say the rear brakes are out of adjustment. Are you able to pump them up when driving? In other words, if you pump the brakes, does the pedal get better or remain the same?
As far as the pads seating, that is a joke. When they installed, once you pump the brakes a few times, the caliper pistons come out to where they need to be and compress the pads into the rotor. No more adjustment or seating is necessary. The rears are another issue. With the vehicle off the ground, the brake shoes need to be adjusted until they touch the drum and create a drag. Once that happens, one should pump the brake pedal several times to center the shoes and then readjust until there is a slight drag on the wheel.
All I can say is this, you paid (a lot) for the brakes to be repaired, and now they are worse. Take it back. Or if you can and would like to see if you can get them to work better, let me know and I'll explaine what to do. It will be more work at home, but that is up to you.
I still can't believe it, 610.00 for a brake job. I'm in the right profession but the wrong state.
Let me know what you decide.
Well, we are in BC Canada and labor is $100/hr. Then the rotors were 100 ea - one rear drum had to be replaced and one machined, and 2 new rear shoes. Labor was 265
altogether for that. Am surely taking it back as they have a 90 day warranty on the labor and it clearly isn't right.
The caliper did move some, apparently, but not enough to get the new pads in. The brake pedal does not firm up on pumping.
I will ask them the questions you suggest. What does it mean that the pedal does not firm up?
What happens is this. If the rear brakes are not adjusted properly, the brake pedal will go close to the floor. WHen you pump them, the brake fluid fills the wheel cylenders. The more you pump them, the more fluid gets to the wheel cylender opening the brake shoes until they touch the drums and start working. After they touch, no more fluid can fit and the brake pedal firms and doesn't go as close to the floor because there is no longer room for the fluid to expand into.
Basically, you go from a brake pedal that almost touches the floor to one that is firm and doesn't get near the floor.
Let me know if you have other questions. I just finished a 4 wheel brake job on a 96 caravan with 2 rotors. Total cost I charged was 150.00. I had the pads and rotors on in 25 minutes and the rear brakes took 45 minutes. That was parts and labor. I wish I could live where you are and live here. I would be rich!
wish you were here also - you surely would have done this thing right for less, i'm thinking.
Anywho, thats not the case, so what does it mean that there is no firming of the pedal when pumped? Thats what is happening. Could the pedal travel and 'mushy' feel be due to air in the lines?
Also, I jacked up both front wheels and when turning them they rotated but with a bit of resistance. Is that normal? Took off the front wheels to have a look and the pads look like lots left and there is some buffing on the rotors already so looks like they are working, or could that be from the pads rubbing on them but not working due to the caliper pistons seized?