Enging Light On - P0455 & P0304

Temp sensor: I used an Ohm meter and placed the temp sensor in boiling water. As the temp rose from cold to high the ohm reading was consistant. Also, the engine temp meter in the dash is showing correctly as well and I thought it was getting it's reading from the sensor. Also, the fan comes on at appropiate times.

Plug wires are correct.

This is the first time I heard of the canister purge solenoid. I will check into that and get back.

Thanks for the reply.

I put champion RC14YC in.

I just pulled the plugs out and they all appear to be burnin the same and compared with a color code online and they fall in the burning Good category.

Could I be getting a vaccume leak?

Thanks for the info. I bought a new temp sensor and also took the EVAP Solenoid off and tested it. It worked fine so I put it back on making sure all the vacuum lines were sealed. I ran the car for three days a now and NO LIGHT! Thanks again.

The car still idles pretty rough though and sometimes shakes the car. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

The upper engine mount seems fine. Still idling a little rough.

I posted 3 pics from each angle. Hopefully you can see them.

Thanks

See attached.

Hello,

I changed the Motor mount and some of the shaking is gone but it still idles pretty rough, and it seems to studder just slightly every so often while driving; maybe once every min or so. The Engine light stayed off until about 100Km and then yesterday it came on again and then this morning went off and then later this evening came on again. I did a Scan and am now getting the original code that I used to get: P0172. I have posted a photo of the results. Please let me know if you have any ideas on what I should look at next.

Could I do the same with Brake cleaner?

What purpose has the rear O2 sensor? I have not changed that nor suspected it. Could it have anything to do with this problem?

PCV valve and hose appear in good condition and I ensured no leaks at all.

I also sprayed some Brake Cleaner all around the intake twice today and did not get any response from the engine. I may have to try it with Carb cleaner as the spray was more direct than an actual spray.

I did some Live data scanning today with my meter and would like to tell you the results to see if it indicates or supports a vacuum leak or anything else.

After car was warmed up, no Engine Light on, I hooked up the scanner.
1. Engine idling around 769Rpm
2. Engine Ignition timing Advance Cyl#1- 11 Degrees Advance (+)
3. Closed Loop Control using Oxygen Sensor - Normal
4. Intake Manifold Pressure 53kPaA or 7.7PsiA
5. SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM: approx 33.59-36%, Lean(-) (I assume that means -33.59%).
6. Long Term Trim 0% (Was setting at idle)
7. Coolant Temp: 64 Deg C, 147.2 Deg F
8. Intake Air Temp: +4 Deg C, 39, 2 Deg F (***this was odd bec it was -12 Deg C outside at the time).
9. O2 Sensor 1 approx 0.935 V when Short term fuel trim at 19.53% Lean(-)
10. O2 Sensor 2 was approx 0.855V

After I started to drive the Long Term Fuel Trim started to go up then settled down at 0.78% Lean(-) and the Short Term FT: 0% and not fluctuating at all. I checked the Fuel Sys Status and it showed as in "Open Loop Control due to System Fault". When I let up on the gas the Long Term FT switched to 4.69% Lean(-), then as soon as I pushed the gas back to 0.78% and back and fourth. I then reset the system.

Note: As I was driving the Intake Air Temp sensor slowly dropped to -8 Deg C but that took 40 min and as I stated it was -12 Deg C outside.

Note: The car never warms up past 1/4. Is this normal? Could this indicate a bad Thermostat?

So after I reset the system I kept driving and it went back into Closed Loop using O2 sensors. The Short term FT started fluctuating again anywhere from 5%- 50% Lean(-) and the Long Term FT fluctuated between 15% - 21% Lean(-) and seemed to stay around 21.88% Lean(-). The only way to get the Short Term FT to show in the plus was to push the gas peddle significantly and hold it. Then and only then would the short term FT go in the positive: Rich(+).

As I was driving I had to come to a stop due to traffic and within min the engine Light came on and I drove the rest of the way to my destination.

Once Parked I let the car idle and looked at the final readings:
1. Coolant Temp: 74DegC, 165.2 Deg F
2. Intake Air Temp: -4DegC, 24.8 Deg F
3. O2 Sensor 1: 0.590V, Short Term FT was 50% Lean(-)
4. O2 Sensor 2: 0.215V
5. Fuel Sys was still in Closed Loop Control
6. Ignition Timing Advance Cyl#1 showed as 15 Deg Advance(+)
7. Intake Manifold Pressure 46-50kPaA or 7.3 PsiA

DTC: P0132- O2 Sensor High Voltage Bank1 Sensor 1

I drove home later in the day and put the scanner on again to get the Freeze Frame and the only code that was showing then was P0172- Fuel Trim too Rich. Attached is the Freeze Frame picture for when this code was detected.

Note: Several months ago I noticed that one of the bolts on the EGR valve was stripped so I used a sealant when I put it back on. The second bolt went tight so I did not think it too much of an issue and with the sealant I do not think that it is leaking, as it would be noticeable bec of the noise.

Note: There are no exhaust leaks.

Note: Sometimes at idle the fumes coming from the car exhaust smell very bad.

I don't think it is the fuel regulator bec I put a new fuel regulator on the car last year. Could I possibly have a bad fuel pump?

The DTC seems to come mostly when the car goes into idle. It does idle VERY rough.

Let me know if there are any specific tests that I can do to pinpoint the problem.

I appreciate all of this help that you are giving me! Thanks.