check engine light

Welcome to the forum,
Sounds like you have an intermittent cylinder misfire. have the trouble codes checked. Around here, some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free. This will direct you to the proper cylinder that is having the issue instead of just throwing parts at it

Read the guides below they will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-top-ten-reasons

I had this same problem ... change all your spark plugs and the check engine light should go away if this returns in a month or two then change your spark plug coil pack along with the spark plugs again and u have fixed the problem... it runs rough due to a misfire happening inside the coil or spark plugs itself it’s about a 60 dollar fix in all

My engine light has been going on and off. It flashes when I push the gas, especially on the expressway. It starts to feel like it goes up and down not knowing what to do when I accelerate. We have changed the spark plugs and the light when off. In Idle sometimes it sputters as well like it wants to shut off. We bought an upstream oxygen sensor but have not put it in yet. Could it be something else? Thanks

The computer has identified a problem within the engine management system. Go to Autozone and get the OBD2 code/s pulled its a free service and comeback with the code/s this is where we start the diagnosis-without it there's no starting point-

The O2 sensor could be one of them-

Check engine light on and flashing
you need to get the system scanned for codes
you can cycle key on off three time ending with key on
read codes in odometer area
P####
let us know of the codes

check engine light flashing its a sign of misfire check it for tune up and check the coil

Before you waste time and money on parts and sensors you should get the codes



good luck

The code that popped up was P 0303. Thanks

as you see code po303 is a misfire on cylinder # 3
i would start with a tune up
good luck
Jack

Did you ever get this fixed and what was the issue. We are having the same problem and are in a pickle due to the face that we are in Germany and have limited resources. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[quote:b569a115bf="lkyheart"]Engine Performance problem
2005 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 27,600 miles
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My engine light has been going on and off. It flashes when I push the gas, especially on the expressway. It starts to feel like it goes up and down not knowing what to do when I accelerate. We have changed the spark plugs and the light when off. In Idle sometimes it sputters as well like it wants to shut off. We bought an upstream oxygen sensor but haven't put it in yet. Could it be something else? Thanks[/quote:b569a115bf]

hey my check engine light keeps coming on and going back off... the codes that come up are knock sensor and camshaft sensor.. i got it checked by some mechanics and they had me to replace the knock sensor.. when i did that, the check engine light came right back on...and sometimes it wont start and when im driving it tries to cut off... what could that be??

Check engine on and flashes 9 out 0f 10 its a misfire
you had changed the plugs
I would change the wires too
check for codes
you can do that your self by cycling the key on off three times ending with key on read codes in the odometer area

scan for codes again
cycle key ON OFF ON OFF ON
read p codes in the odometer area
and let me know

THE CODE was p0325...

If the sensor was replaced
check wiring
need to check ground wire and ohm wires between PCM and sensor connector plug

Check engine light has been on for about a week, it kind of sputters when idling under 1 rpm. When going up a slight hill it starts bucking, now check engine light started flashing 10 or 11 times. Not sure because I'm driving when it happens.

Flashing check engine light is your cars version of running down the street screaming for help. It means you are likely doing damage to the convertor.

Get it scanned for the codes it has. That will at least point to which area needs to be checked. It could be something simple like a bad plug or injector. Or it could be something worse. Hard to tell without knowing what the computer sees.

I did code check using ignition method. Got p0301. Spoke with mechanic n was told misfire on cylinder 1. So I'm hoping to be able to change plugs n wires tomorrow. And hoping it is fixed. And the light just recently came on and have been very limited on how much I drive knowing I have to fix it.

Yup, P0301 is a misfire code. Could be plugs wires, coil, injector, bad valves.
Plugs and wires are a good idea, especially if they haven't been touched. Keep us informed, please.

I haven't run my car for 2 days. Today when I got in it to go to the store, I noticed my check engine light was on and was not blinking but was steady. I did the test that my manuel said to do and no blinking occurred during this test. So what is the major problem that is usually caused by this? I drove to the store and back fine which was only 2 miles each way.
I hear that it used to be the oxygen sensor that was the main reason but now days it could be anything?

You heard wrong about the oxygen sensor. It is one of the least likely to set a diagnostic fault code because so many conditions must be met.

Cycling the ignition switch used to cause the Check Engine light to flash out a series of two-digit codes that would indicate the circuit or system with a problem, not the actual component. On newer cars, the codes are displayed in the digital odometer.

The diagnostic fault codes are divided into different groups according to severity. Only the most severe will cause the Check Engine light to flash while driving. That means way too much unburned fuel is about to do permanent damage to the catalytic converter in the exhaust system.

caradiodoc

Guess what...it is the oxygen sensor. It actually is a wire that boke in helf so I'm gonna try and splice it back together for now.
Kenatwood

If it works, wonderful. But be aware, all O2 sensors compare the oxygen in the exhaust stream to the oxygen in the atmosphere. Most sensors get their air sample through an opening between the four wires where they enter the sensor. It is possible to render them ineffective by getting carried away with rustproofing.

A few sensors draw their external air sample through one of the wires, between the wire and its insulation. Those wires can not be spliced; you'll have to replace the entire sensor.

Sorry that I can't remember which brands or models of car used those sensors, but just in case you still have trouble after the repair, consider having it tested by a professional. Their equipment will show the reading switching from rich to lean many times per second if it's working correctly. If it doesn't switch normally, the engine computer will detect that and set one or more appropriate diagnostic codes in memory, but there is a series of conditions that must be met before it will rely on any self-test results. If all the conditions are met, and the computer sees a problem, a typical fault code might be "O2 not switching from rich to lean". There are other fault codes that will not cause the Check Engine light to turn on but if set in memory, they can prevent some self tests from running.

caradiodoc