Mechanics

98 DIES

1998 Dodge Intrepid

I have a 98 intrepid that had an engine swap done a couple of years ago (2.7 to 3.2). I've been using the same computer that was on the 2.7.

It has been running fine until lately. It started as the engine stumbling like a throttle position sensor might do. Then the stumbling turned into dieing.

This will happen after about five minutes (coincident with temp rising?). It will run fine until then the just die and will not restart.

I plugged in the autotap tool and there aren't any codes happening perm or temp. So no diagnostics from OBDII to help.

I'm not sure where to start from here.
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Jmullins
May 4, 2006.



I would check the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. These are pretty common failures. I also suggest testing spark and fuel presence when the engine wont start to help lead you in the right direction.

Tiny
32Intrepid
May 13, 2006.
You might wan't to check your CTS sensor, (coolant temperature sensor). It seems when this sensor is close to the end of it's life engine stalling issues will develop, & the engine won't re-start until it cools off.
- - - Secret Squirrel - - -

Tiny
Secret Squirrel
May 13, 2006.
Thank you for the suggestions. Since you suggested these, do you know what measurements to make and the limits of the measurement?

Specifically
CTS - Measure Resistance? Range?
Crank Sensor - Heat and check for open circuit?
Cam Sensor - Heat and check for open circuit?

Fuel Pressure Range" Spark check at plug or wire going to coil? If wire, voltage range? Or check check that it is there?

Tiny
Jmullins
May 14, 2006.
To test CTS sensor a.K.A. ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor, with a digital multimeter set on Ohm's test - test the resistance across the two terminals of the sensor. With the engine *cold* it should be between 500 & 1100 Ohms. With the engine at operating temp. The resistance should be 1300+ Ohms. Replace if not in specs. Also check your IAT (Intake air temp.) Sensor on the intake plenuum, resistance should be less than 1340 Ohms with engine warmed up. **Note** these test specs are for early 90's dodge vans / trucks, shouldn't be to much difference since their all crap. The cam & crank sensor, fuel pressure etc. Vacuum diagrams & emissions checks are all in the " Chilton repair manual" for your make-model-& year. Required reading for any " Insane" chrysler/dodge D.I.Y. Enthusiast. Enjoy!
- - - Secret Squirrel - - - a.K.A. Moracco mole.

Tiny
Secret Squirrel
May 14, 2006.
" The cam & crank sensor, fuel pressure etc. Vacuum diagrams & emissions checks are all in the " Chilton repair manual" for your make-model-& year. &Quot; I have a Haynes manual, that will have to do. Thank you for your suggestions.

Tiny
Jmullins
May 14, 2006.
Well I checked the intake temp sensor, it was bad. REplaced the sensor, checked coolant sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor, fuel pressure, firing for the coils, and all seems to be working but the car won't run. No codes.
Yet the engine won't run.

Now the timing might be wrong, PCM malfunctioning etc. Didn't remove the coil and see how much spark there is. Didn't check the timing of the spark either.

Maybe the PCM isn't telling the injectors to fire?

Tiny
Jmullins
May 29, 2006.
Question, when checking the crank and cam sensors, I was assuming that they wouldn't work at all if they failed. Is that assumption correct? I connected a simple piezo electric speaker to the wiring to see if the pulsing was working or not and I could hear in each case the beeping due to it picking up the holes and or ridges of the crank and cam. So, I didn't think they were the problem.

Is there more to check?

Tiny
Jmullins
Jun 5, 2006.
Well even though I could detect pulses on the Crank sensor, I went ahead and replaced it. Sure enough, the car runs again. Now I have to replace the connector since I broke the tab off.

But it feels good to have it running again.

: D
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Tiny
Jmullins
Jun 13, 2006.

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