Sometimes it drives fine and sometimes the engine will start stalling?

it sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor could be bad but to be sure lets run down this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

could the cam shaft sensor cause this to happen?

There are a hundred things that could cause it.

i took the number four spark plug wire out and it was soaked in oil, other three looked okay.

Does the car have any codes? here is a guide to help you find out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

i dont have access to scanner so i got them by turning the key on and off 3 times in a row and it displays the codes in the odometer, anyway there were 10 codes, i cleaned the oil out of the spark plug tube, and cleaned the cam shaft sensor, the check engine light stopped flashing but is still on, its been dieing while im driving down the road and if i put it im neutral it will start right back up, but if i kill it, turn the key off sometims it takes 20 minutes before it will start and sometims it starts right up, anyway the codes it displays now are
p0016, p0522, p0339, p0340, p0335 and p0038

The first code is for the crankshaft sensor that it what I would replace first.

Here is a guide that will let you know what you are in for:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Let us know what happens so it will help others

Best, Ken

car stalls out either warm or cold it runs sometimes starts right up after stalling sometimes i have to wait for long periods of time for car to restart?

Since it starts back up, it sounds like it might not be a sensor-related problem. Try holding the gas pedal down 1/8" and see if the engine restarts. If that works every time, I have a real simple fix.

Caradiodoc, what -is- that "real simple fix"? I'm in the same boat as "dmiramon".

Thank you in advance.

Does your engine always stay running if you hold the gas pedal down 1/8"? If it does, but stalls at stop signs, this problem occurs after the battery was disconnected or run dead. If that doesn't apply, my fix won't help.

Some times it drives fine and sometimes it will start stalling and cutting out real hard, but if you let off and slowly ease back into gas it drives normal, here recently it has started dying while driving, sometimes it starts right back up and sometimes it takes ten minutes. the check engine light flashes on and off now instead of staying on constantly. i checked spark plugs and number four spark plug tube had a bunch of oil in it, i am guessing it is from leaking valve cover? the wire and plug seem to be still working fine.

What are the exact code numbers not code descriptions it has in the computer?

now remember i have had the van for six months, and it was given to me by an eighty five year old man so I so not when the last time the codes were cleared and it ran great 90% of the time and it would try to stall and jerk real hard occasionally, but if you eased back into gas it was fine. now it does it just about every time i drive it. anyway, here are all the codes, there are a bunch of them.
p0016, p0442, p0456, p0440, p0300, p0522, p0344, p0339, p0340, p0335, p0038.

you need to clear the codes and let's see what codes come back. we might have multiple issues I am thinking from those codes.

i have no way of clearing the codes, i got those codes by turning key on and off three times in a row and it displays them in the odometer. i live in a small town closest place to go to be able to clear codes is thirty miles away.

Then you are going to have to buy a pocket code reader. there are pretty cheap ones. I recommend the Autel Al319. that is the one I have. Make sure you do not get the cheap Chinese knock off that one. It also has some live engine data which is helpful on diagnosis.

i do not have extra money to buy one right now. so i cleaned all that oil out of spark plug tube cleaned connectors on cam shaft sensor and drove around town a little and drove fine. took a minute for it to start, but check engine line stopped flashing at least.

Okay, take it one day at a time one of those codes was for the crankshaft position sensor that can cause a stall no start for ten minutes. But without things like code readers etc it is hard to see what is going on. Let me know what happens.

Engine suddenly quits at any gvien time without notice. Cranks but does not fire just like lacking fuel or ignition. No obc code, new fuel pump, new rebuilt ECU and now new ignition coil. Drove it for 1/2 hr fine, my wife takes it out and quits on her randomly. After it sits for a while it will start right up without a problem and it might drive for a while or quit again.

There are a couple of thoughts on this one.

Flexplates were a problem that causes this, but I would lean towards a bad cam sensor. If you can scope it you may be able to verify it. The wiring to the cam sensor runs pretty close to the belt, look for chaffed wires first.

van turns on, dies after running for 5 minutes or less, noise coming out of the distribution fuse box in the from engine compartment. Fuel pump turn on & off in a rapid motion & clicking noise from the fuse box. I take out fuel pump fuse click stops, put back on click comes back on. Eventually it after messing with fuse putting the fuse on & off it will start again for about another 5 minutes then click on & off again. If I were to insert & take off the fuse in a rapid motion it would be similar to what is happening.

Hello, have you tried swapping relays? Maybe the ac relay is the same as the fuel pump relay, count the terminals, check the text on the relays, if their the same, swap, just for testing purposes. If the relays act the same, I don't think it is the relay. Check the relay control circuits, usually 85 and 86 terminals. 85 goes hot when you turn on the key. 86 terminal is ground, during the initial prime, the computer will ground that circuit for a couple seconds, after that, no ground without rpm signal.

van turns on, dies after running for 5 minutes or less, a clicking noise coming out of the distribution fuse box By engine compartment, click stops when I pull the ignition fuse out but when inserted back click comes back on. If I let the van sit for about an hour or so it would turn back on. I think it's something related with the ignition switch or module. I'm not familiar with the electrical on vehicles.
[quote:d2eedaf17f="andy252"]Electrical problem
2003 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 80,200 miles

van turns on, dies after running for 5 minutes or less, noise coming out of the distribution fuse box in the from engine compartment. Fuel pump turn on & off in a rapid motion & clicking noise from the fuse box. I take out fuel pump fuse click stops, put back on click comes back on. Eventually it after messing with fuse putting the fuse on & off it will start again for about another 5 minutes then click on & off again. If I were to insert & take off the fuse in a rapid motion it would be similar to what is happening.[/quote:d2eedaf17f]

I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 liter engine. Van runs very rough, wont stay running. Replaced MAP sensor still running rough. Any ideas

did you check for codes ?

Yes, I get 0107, 0108, 0205, 1478, 0123, 0118. Last night I was only getting 0107 and 0108 so I replaced the MAP sensor. Now this morning I get the other 4 codes.

all indicate to a short circuit
DTC P0107: MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO LOW
NOTE:For component location,.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit is monitored with engine speed at 600-3500 RPM, Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage less than 1.2 volts and battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. DTC will set if Powertrain Control Module (PCM) senses MAP sensor voltage is less than 0.0392 volt for 1.7 seconds.
Possible Causes
MAP Sensor Voltage Below 0.04 Volt
(F855) 5-Volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Ground
(F855) 5-Volt Supply Circuit Open
MAP Sensor Internal Failure
(K1) MAP Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground
(K1) MAP Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To (K900) Sensor Ground Circuit
PCM


DTC P0108: MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH
Monitored & Set Conditions
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit is monitored with engine speed at 600-3500 RPM, Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage less than 1.2 volts for greater that 1.7 seconds and battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. DTC will set when MAP sensor voltage is greater than 4.96 volts.
Possible Causes
MAP Sensor Voltage Above 4.6 Volts
(K1) MAP Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To (F855) 5-Volt Supply Circuit
(K1) MAP Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To Battery Voltage
(K1) MAP Sensor Signal Circuit Open
(K900) Sensor Ground Circuit Open
MAP Sensor Internal Failure
PCM

DTC P0118: ECT SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH
Monitored & Set Conditions
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit is monitored with ignition on and battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. DTC will set if ECT sensor voltage at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is greater than 4.96 volts for greater than 2.6 seconds.
Possible Causes
ECT Sensor Voltage Above 4.6 Volts
ECT Sensor Internal Failure
(K2) ECT Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To Battery Voltage
(K2) ECT Sensor Signal Circuit Open
(K900) Sensor Ground Circuit Open
PCM

P0205: INJECTOR #5 CONTROL CIRCUIT


DTC P1478: BATTERY TEMP SENSOR VOLTS OUT OF LIMIT
Monitored & Set Conditions
Battery temp is monitored with ignition on. DTC will set if the battery temperature sensor, internal to the PCM, goes above 4.9 volts or below 0.1 volt for more than 3.2 seconds.

Would the computer be bad, or is it just a short in a common wire somewhere?

Have to check wiring system and harness 1st use an OHM meter and check wiring back to the PCM if all checked OK suspect bad PCM

my car has had a vacuum leak and i thought i repaired it but , it wasnt it i guess when i dirve aND have gas to car its fine when i slow down or stop car wants to and has stopped , it starts rite back up but just gettin worse the colder the weather the worse it gets now i have a ehaust hole before the converter someone looked at it saying it was that is it or could there be something else . there are no engine lights on

Hi:
on what you said, I would continue looking for another vacuum leak. also, even though the check engine light isn't on, I would have the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store. THey will do it for free and there may be a stored code in the computer.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Electrical problem
2003 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

engine light been on for 3 month. Now after driving for short distance engine stops running ,have to wait a minute or two and start up and runs a minute or two.Let sit for a longer period time and will run longer.

Welcome to the forum. When the problem occurs, have a helper crank the engine, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. You have to do testing, when the problem is ongoing.

Also, have the trouble codes checked. Some of the national brand autostores used to check codes for free. You can call and ask.

I have a 2003 Dodge caravan with 80000 miles and is a 4 cyl. The engine stalls when ever it is put into gear. Most of the time it starts back up but there have been times when it has taken 3 or more tries to get it to run. It is also is stalling some on acceleration. There is no code in the on board computer reader. Spark plugs were just change 2000 miles ago. Not sure where to go next. Any help at all would be greatly helpful.

I wou;d take it somewhere and have it scaned for codes. Some codes willn't show check engine light or show up on onboard computer.

I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 6 cyl with 84,000 miles. I bought the van used a few months ago with 74,000 miles on it. Im having problems with it wanting to stay running in the cool damp mornings. It starts but then begins to sputter the RPMs keep jumping from 1 to 1 1/2 then it just dies, it starts right back up again but continues to do this until the engine warms up. I have been lately keeping my foot on the accelerator to prevent it from dying until it gets warmed up. The engine makes kind of a low pitched whining sound. Once it warms up it will stay running but is doggy and sputters at times. I did put a bottle of sea foam fuel addative as recommended by a family member who is mechanically savy. At this point it is not coming up with any codes when I check it with the trip reset and turning to the key to aux x3 it just says "done" and the check engine light is not on either. Any suggestions? At times when checking the codes I see something that comes up SOF 20.

It sounds like the moisture is causing ignition issues. my first guess is the plug wires. What to do is this. At night, start the engine, open the hood, and mist water on the ignition wires, distributor cap... In the dark you will be able to see any arcing. If you find it, replace the part.

Let me know what you find.

I also have a 2003 dodge caravan that is doing the same thing. I have replaced the wires,spark plugs, I also sprayed wd40 around intake to see if engine would rev up nothing. replaced #2 coil, o2 sensor, cleaned the injectors. Then it got worse. It will die when at intersection.very sluggish when slowing down.now it doesn't matter when it is. It used to be when damp. What do I do now. 192,000 miles.

2003 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl 95,000 miles

I have a 2003 dodge Caravan that has had a miss since Jan. 2007. At first it acted like there was water in the gas, so we put gas treatment in it and it ran fine for a while. It has since acted up from time to time, but it never triggers the engine light. We have had it at several repair shops, but no one can find the problem. They have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter and the fuel pump after it started whinning. Nothing has helped. It is getting worse. It now stalls at stop signs and sometimes when turning. I am worried it will cause a wreck.