My engine stalls while driving?

Has the check engine light come on? It could be many things from a fuel pump, vacuum leak, crankshaft sensor. This guide can help us figure out what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

I was driving at 70 mph on interstate and the engine began to stall it would try to start up but eventually it stalled and left me on the side of the road. I tried to start the motor it would start but would not stay on and continued to stall. My son came along in his truck we pushed the car to the nearest exit and left the car for about 3 hours. Came back and the car started up and the (engine light was on) I drove the car home about 20 miles and it ran fine. I took it too my mechanic and he said he did not know what the problem was since the car is now running fine. He turned off the engine light and it has been running fine, my concern is to take it on the interstate and have this happen again. What should I look for to repair. Could this be the fuel pump or a sensor going bad. Thanks, Jack

Hello .. thanks for the donation .. much appreciated The fault could be caused by numerous things going bad .. a sensor/spark plug/plugwire/fuel pump/PCM and the list goes on and on .. when the check engine light was on and the tech read the codes this should have pinpointed where the fault lies ? do you know what code the cars computer was showing ? if not ask the tech who deleted the code .. without this code we are just guessing as to where the fault may be .. and could start replacing part without reason ... hope this helps .. let me know !!

Posted at Wed Mar 18, 2009 7:47 am By John Fernandez, Have Donated Give Feedback | Votes: 0 Engine Performance problem 2000 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles This message is to Dave H. In reference to the codes on the computer I got an answer from the readout of the code from an auto zone store before I took the car to my mechanic The code said Fuel trim bank one condition Explanation The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The coputer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only. Probale cause If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF ( mass air flow) sensor Oxygen sensor defective ignition misfire- repair Fuel injector problem What should I do? John Fernandez ************************************ Hey John. Please could you use the reply button at the bottom of this post to reply or when you post in the future .. this way I am advised you have replied !! thanks. First thing you need to do is remove and clean the MAP sensor using sensor cleaner from an autoparts store !! follow the directions on the container !! Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (2.4L)On front of intake manifold. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (3.0L)On front of intake manifold. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (3.3L)On rear of intake manifold. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (3.8L)On rear of intake manifold. also let me know if the vehicle still running good ? or has there been anymore fault's !! Let me know

Vehicle starts in the morning. When just I drive it turns off. But when I drive a while, it runs fine. Just when the temperature gage is below the halfway mark, there is a tendency to stall. When temperatuer is above the halfway mark, there is no stalling. When I drive a half hour or more, car runs fine.

The "oil light" comes on when the car stalls, but when I start the car after this, the "oil light" turns off.

The oil light is coming on because the engine died and there is no oil pressure at that time. It is normal and working as designed. As far as the other question, has the check engine light ever come on? When was the last tune up?

Let me know.
Joe

No warning, running ok, it just conks out at random. New plugs, wires, air filter, crankshaft sensor and clock spring fix within last 6 months, now this. Any ideas?

When it stalls, all interior items die out like fan motor, etc. Drifting to stop with only oil light lit up. Try to start, engine cranks normally but won't start. Wait 1 minute, car starts normally, idiot lights act properly and away I go. I have no idea, other than electircal problem of some sort.

First thought is your "power control" module. It controls all the systems you describe.

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

engine stalls starts after sitting for 1 hour or more when it does start check engine light comes on for about 1-2 hours and goes off van works fine for a week or two and then starts all over again

Hello, you might check trouble codes? Some of the national brand autostores will check codes for free.

When the problem occurs, can you do some basic tests? Have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs. When the problem occurs, are you saying it cranks good but won't start?

Own a 2000 Dodge Caravan with 132,800 miles. Whenever I drive about 20 minutes and stop at like a stop light, the little oil light comes on and the van just shuts off. I let the van sit for about 10 minutes then she starts right up. I got my oil changed last week thinking that was the problem but no. I just got a brand new fuel filter put in this morning thinking that would fix it, but NOOOOOO. Any ideas what could be the problem or where I should look for the cause of the problem? Thanks for any help.

If the RPM's get low enough, the oil light will come on. If the car starts right back up and there is no check engine light comeing on, then I would recommend starting by checking for vacuum leaks.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I was driving the van and came to a stop and it quit running . Acted like it was out of gas, but has half a tank. It started up again and the wipers came on while being turned off and then flasher came on. Now will not start again.

check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. scan for codes, see link. also, make sure you have good battery connections and clean terminal ends.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The battery died, we couldn't charge or jump start it. We replaced the battery and the van started right up. After sitting all night, the van wouldn't start. We tested the battery and it was still fully charged. We tried jump starting the van, just in case the reading for the charge level was off. At first the van wouldn't start. It would turn over, sometimes sounding as if the battery had died or there is an issue with the starter. After about three tries, it turned right over and started but would not stay running. We tried a few more times and each time the van started up pretty easy but wouldn't stay running. After about five more times or so of trying, the van finally stayed running. I'm pretty sure a portion of the entire issue was because the van was really cold. It got into the thirties last night, we live in Florida so those temperatures don't happen often. I'm pretty sure it's not the battery. Also, about two weeks ago the locks started acting up. They would rapidly lock and unlock when the van was running. This happened randomly and only about four times. The battery cables ate slightly corroded, my boyfriend is cleaning them now. What all could cause any of this?

Good morning,

Yes, the first thing to do is clean the cables. low voltage from bad connections will cause this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Also, I would check the charging system to be sure the alternator is maintaining the battery charge.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Roy

what needs replaced when,every time u go to slow down car wants to sputter out and die. does not idle very well. does same thing in reverse as drive on automatic transmission on 2000 dodge grand caravan se/sport 3.8l. ? vacum leak?

may be a vacuum leak or a problem with the idle control system, get both checked over, a scan may show up a fault as well.

Sorry for sounding stupid but the round thing the throttle lines run through before they go to the flap on the throttle body, it has vacum lines going to it and it is very rusty looking and i put my hand behind it an can feel air coming out of it?Or air leak. any clue what this is called or if that could be it?

when ever i drive my van and turn into a gas station or stop suddenly my engine stalls for no reason. I tried driving with ODB 2 reader and no codes what so ever, even went to a mechanic shop to use one of their code readers and it still shows nothing. People tell me its my fuel filter, or the EGR Valve, but it can't because it happes whenever it wants to. Sometimes i can drive for a week or more with out any problems.

Hi:
If there are no codes and it only happens when you stop quickly, it will be tough to identify. I would start looking for vacuum leaks first. If nothing is found, my eyes would go to the throttle position sensor, which may be getting tired.

Joe

2000 Dodge Grand Caravan
115,000 miles
4 speed Automatic
2 wheel drive
3.3L Engine

First off, the engine has had spark plugs/wires fairly recently, the throttle body cleaned.

Occasionally, about once every 3 months, I have this problem.

When I apply the brakes at an idle, my engine loses its idle and dies within 5 seconds. Some symptoms that occur when I press the brake are a dimming lights, especially the time on the radio, the interior tailgate lights come on, and my gas gauge will go from full all the way down to empty, and the low gas light turns on.

This happened once in the winter time also, when it was pretty cold, maybe 30 degrees or so out.. Except the engine died when i turned on the headlights... I had to back out of the driveway without lights, and get the van moving before turning them on to prevent it from stalling.

I test drove it today to get some additional symptoms. Even going ~25mph, when i two foot it (pressing both the gas and brake), the engine will still stall.

I know this problem sounds complex, but i'm sure there's an answer....

Please help me!

This sounds like a body control module, it needs to be replaced at the dealer...tell them your symtoms, and go from there, most times when body control is bad the new mod can only be set up by the dealer!
With the dimming light you can try going to Autozone and getting you alternator tested, they can test it on the car, lack of voltage may do this as well...

any other suggestions?

and is there anyway i can make it like... work a little while longer? I'm suppose to go out of town tomorrow!