Engine keeps stalling?

It sounds like you may have a blown head gasket but to be sure tis guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

i check codes when you turn you key on and off a few times .the light blink 12 then 55, does any one knows what it means?

12 is battery or computer recently disconnected. and 55 is end of codes.

do you know how to fix it?

all that means is, you you either disconnected your battery within the last 24 hours. and / or when u start it, turn it off, ext it resets the computer. Then of course 55 says it's the end of all codes.

have a 3.o caravan. car died while back so i emptied the cat conv. that then gave me a code for 02 sensor. i replaced that and still she starts but after a few miles of driving the gas pedal looses pressure and the only way to get it to go any further you gotta tap very fast on pedal but after a min she putters and dies and will fire back up only to have poor idle and when you hit gas it goes to die again. did cap and rotor and fuel pump does make sounds when key turned on. please any info would be great

[quote:da34796c99="jblm4life08"]Engine Performance problem
1995 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
have a 3.o caravan. car died while back so i emptied the cat conv. that then gave me a code for 02 sensor. i replaced that and still she starts but after a few miles of driving the gas pedal looses pressure and the only way to get it to go any further you gotta tap very fast on pedal but after a min she putters and dies and will fire back up only to have poor idle and when you hit gas it goes to die again. did cap and rotor and fuel pump does make sounds when key turned on. please any info would be great[/quote:da34796c99]

Hello,

Check the fuel pressure. If no pressure, check fuel pressure relay. You can do this by finding the relay and pulling it out, look at the numbers on it then look at the other relays and match up the numbers. Just swap out the with one with matching numbers.

engine stalls after fast acceleration

Has the check engine light come on? have you checked fuel pump pressure?

Hi
The check engine light has not come on , fuel pump presure is good I think I found prolem verify for me if
you think the same.
I started a proccess of elimination by disconnecting all
vacum hoses and inspecting for leaks did not find any
but when i disconnected the vacum hose from EGR valve to selenoid the engine ran smoother and took car for test , it did not shut off at all but notice at idle
car smoked when connected hose smoke went away
now my next test is to remove EGR and clean it . if it does not work them it may be selenoid ,
Question how can i test selenoid for damage?

Remove the EGR and make sure there are no vacuum leaks to the valve. Also, clean any carbon from both the EGR and the intake. As far as the valve, make sure it is sealing.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

My 1995 Grand Caravan starts fine (from cold) and runs fine for around 15 minutes. After that warmup period it starts sputtering as if it's starving for fuel and eventually dies. Once it cools back down, it'll run fine again (but for only another 15 minutes).

This is very consistent.

This problem began after having a new (and cheap) transmission put in. I've had both the transmission mechanic and a 2nd independent mechanic look at it without luck. The 2nd guy is guessing that the transmission guy cracked the fly wheel when dropping-in the transmission. The transmission guy said this isn't possible because it wouldn't run fine at all then. Having that checked will cost too much in labor so I'm kind of stuck.

The transmission guy thinks it's a bad computer (engine computer near the battery) and unrelated to the new transmission. He said a replacement would solve the problem.

The independent guy checked the fuel pressure and changed the fuel filter just in case but that didn't help. He's not so sure about the computer theory.

What could be causing this problem that relates to the engine being warm??

The coolant sensor or the fuel pump, to name two. The flywheel would give you noise and starting problems, it is not that I don't think. Have your mechanic check for codes from the engine computer. Joe

As I drive my vehicle, 5-10 minutes later, all the lights go dead and the vehicle spits and sputs and dies. Then it wont turn back on for another couple hours, just for a short time. Battery is brand new, just replaced it in thoughts that was the problem. Then I tested the alternator, but it was taken off at the time, since I cannot really drive it anywhere to get it tested on the vehicle. Any ideas on what it could be, if the alternator is bad? Also, all connections were checked.

WHen it dies, does everything electrical stop working?

Yes, lights go dead, CD player goes dead, heat stops working, and so on...

like many others while driving it simply cuts off, when in reverse its the same, when turning a corner or slowing down, I use gas cleaner, oil cleaner, change fuel filther, check for vacum leak, loose wiring, maybe need to change spark plugs and wire. I change oil ,put in oil pressur switch.Run fine then start the same thing, cuts off

Hi phoretta, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs if okay-try disconnecting the transmission clutch converter solenoid and see what happens

Engine Performance problem
1995 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my caravan stalls whenever i slow down. when i am on the freeway, it does not stall until i slow down to about 10 miles per hour. the check engine light is also on. the van always starts right back up after stalling. this has been going on for about two days now. i also smell gas when i do start it up.

If the check engine light is on, you need to have the computer scanned to identify where the problem is coming from. If you smell fuel after starting it, it sounds ignition related. What to do is take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer. Most will do it for free. Let me know what code they find and then I can tell you what to do next. If you want, check for vacuum leaks on the engine too.

Joe

My car stall after running for a while, we shut it down wait for a while restart the engine, run it againt, it shut down

Hello, can you check for codes? Try cycling the key, on--off, on--off, on, you just turn the key till the dash lites come on, no crank. The check engine lite goes to flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes.

You could do some basic tests, if it refuses to start again, right away. Have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs and injector pulse.

Hi brobert.
Yes, like [ jdl123 ] said, cycle the key and note the codes. Have paper and pen ready...
Did you read some of Thee Excellent infos @t:
https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_does_my_engine_die_stall_at_idle.htm

I'm having a similar problem:
1995 Caravan, V6, 3.3L, automatic, 225 000 KM = Last model-year of same generation as yours.
It starts but will not idle! Runs smooth when i give it gas, but will not idle! { repeated self intentionaly}
btw > I live in Montréal, Canada. Cold and/or wet winters!!
Here's what I've noticed in the last weeks:
Battery seemed to weakened (Slower turning starter), Radio-clock will not work (Fuse good).
Then today=
Tried to start Caravan. Cranked ok, fired-up, revs-up, but unable to idle. I had to reStart 3 times.
On the fourth try = Battery too weak to do it's job. I used the jumper pack to reStrat it 2 more times.
Reved-it-up for 1 minute to recharge both batteries. Still no idle = stalls!
Here's what I've done, and discovered:
Removed my battery to take it inside, inspect the liquid level and recharge-it. Yep! It's low on water.
And it has ONLY! 11.97 Volts. "it's DEAD Jim!". I topped it with neutral water and put the charger on.
(Last time i did that on previous car's batt., it did not bring my battery back to scale!) Still trying...
I'm suspecting that the too low VOLTage might have induce errors in ECM... I'm just guessing.
So I went back-out to the Van, and cycled the codes using the Power-Pack. Hey! The radio is ON!?!
But! Since I removed all power to the Computers for over 1 hour, codes are useless.
I only got 12, and 55 wich is END of diagnostic according to my Haynes Sunday Mechanic book.

Ok. Loooong post! Sorry...
I'll let the 1 amp charger do it's work overnight, take a measure, and see about this trouble tomorrow.
Maybe will have to go buy a New Battery... Hoping that will end this Stalling Trouble!!!...
N.B.:
And I will post here with latest news. Ciao Dude.

Solution:=:=>
Replaced The Old, "it's Dead! Jim", Battery. Circa June 2006.

And now it's OK, xcept for the Radio-Clock that still won't come on!
Starts, idles and drives.

Did not have to replace any symptomatic sensors/valves :
Being;
, IAC={ Idle Air Control Valve},
, MAP={ Manifold Absolute Pressure},
, EGR={ Exhaust Gas Recirculation}
, Oxygen sensor, on Exhaust Manifold,,,

Darn CONmputers!!!
Electronics should have NEVER been Mixed with Mechanics!!!
I can understand it for emissions and performance, butt! {Error intented = Cause it's a pain in thee...!}
But Pe-Leazzz!!! Make them better than Windows! I mean PLEASE!!! Come! On!

As for the radio-clock that will not come on, I'm now suspecting said accessory.
But who knows, ..., if it's still because of that Darn little silver box!?! = Dah CONpiouter.

Have a 94 dodge grand caravan se (3.3L v6) that has stalled a few times. it sat for 6 months with a full tank of gas till i bought it. the engine light comes on at times then the van stalls no matter what speed i go. i try to restart it but it seems like its not getting enough gas.

If the check engine light is on, lets start there. Take the vehicle to a nationally recognized parts stores and have them scan the computer for trouble codes. Most will do it for free. Let me know what you find.

Joe

1994 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L, AWD, 113,000+/- miles, stalls when hot. This has happened at low speed, <30mph, once when pulling away from stop sign, at about 25mph (light acceleration) and once while slowing to make a right turn. No computer codes (55 end of sequence only). Will restart after 30 minutes or so and run fine. Fuel pump and filter replaced. Still stalls. Fuel pressure seems fine. It will squirt out at the pressure release valve on the fuel rail with a pretty strong stream. What next? Thanks.

The most common cause is a failing crankshaft position sensor but the camshaft position sensor can do that too. They will typically fail when warm and work again when they cool down. When the signal is missing from one of them, the Engine Computer turns off the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which removes voltage from the ignition coil pack, injectors, alternator field, and fuel pump relay.

Went to the mechanic, and he said i needed to change the gas pump and filter from my dodge caravan 94, where can i buy the right ones, good prices, so i can bring it to the mechanic?

The car was dying on me, so i have to change it, but the store wants 230 bucks for it

check auto zone, pepboys and advanced. they all stock them but you have to release the fuel tank and lower it to get the lines off the top of the pump module.

Roy

Well it will crank and fire up, and will take gas and run perfect for about twenty to thirty seconds. maybe a minute, but it will soon shutter and shut off. but I have found out after doing this several times. that if you just let it run without touching the gas. it will just shut off real quick. But if you pat the gas while it is shutting off it will act like it's going to pick back up. but after sputtering up and down from a good idle to about to shut off it will go head and shut off.

So, I thought fuel pump so I changed it and still the same.

So then I went to the firing and found out that I wasn't getting no fire threw the ignition coil. so I changed it and it started get fire but it wasn't right. it would only fire about one time on the number one spark plug wire for about every six to eight times it would turn the engine over.

So then I changed the crankshaft sensor.
Still the same .
So I changed the camshaft sensor and still no change.

And I've checked the fuel pressure.
And the fuel filter.
And air filter.

And I do not know if this may help but it has a knocking sound when you let it idle or when you let off the gas and it gets about down to 20-30 mph and stops when you get to about 5 mph. The noise sounds like it is the dust cover on the catalytic converter but it is not.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Are you sure the internal components in the catalytic converter are loose and plugging the exhaust?

Do me a favor. Do this test and see if makes a difference.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Okay, I'll sure try it and here is a video:

It sounds like it could be internal components in the catalytic converter. Start the vehicle and allow it to run while you check if the sound comes from the exhaust. If it does, allow the engine to cool. Then, take a rubber mallet and tap on the exhaust to see if you can reproduce the sound.

Let me know what you find.

Joe