confused

There's only one engine available for this model so I didn't have to guess. The 3.0L is indeed an interference engine.

Your particular engine IS NOT and interference engine. There are 2 3.0 SOHC engines. One is a 12 valve which is a free wheeling engine and the other is a 24 valve which is an interference engine. You have the 12 valve version.

Sorry. As usual, I'm wrong again. I used rockauto.com for reference and they only list one engine for this van. Ten vendors are listed for the timing belt and nine say it's an interference engine, so only one is right.

this message is for wrenchtech you have helped me a little bit. i do know that the van is a 3.0L 12-valve engine, so if the engine is a free-wheel engine then what must i do to get the van back run and could i have done something wrong that the van is not starting for me?

Sorry it took so long. After Caradiodoc answered the software locks me out for 20 minutes.

You're opening a whole new can of worms here.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

wrenchtech i have check everything that you have listed to check and everything checks out fine. i have spark, i have correct fuel pressure, i have power going to the injectors and, i have good compression. if everything checks out fine what else is to check. racking my brain trying to figure this out.

No, if that were true, the car would be running. You need to start from scratch and perform every test I gave you. Don't take any shortcuts because that's how you get into this position.

I have all three and it is running the only problem that i have now is that i'm firing on three cylinders 1,4,6 primarily but 2,3,5 are firing. just low compression. 2 @ 120lbs psi, 3 @ 90 lbs psi, 5 @ 100lbs psi these are the ones that have black plugs . the other ones are fine.

It could be out of time a little. It may be time to double check the timing marks. You could perform leakdown testing to find out if the valves are OK or not once you verify timing marks