1996 Chevy Tahoe changing engines

Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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No, i, am not planning on changing the engine. If I can save it, I really dont have the money for another engine. What are the procedures for checking to see if the push rods and lifters are worn andto see if they are getting enough oil. I know I take the valve cover off, what do I do next?
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Wednesday, August 13th, 2008 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Check for oil at start up, then see if the oil stops or drastically decreases in ammount when noise appears, take the rods out and check them for being bent, do this by rolling on a table.

Check the rocker arms for excessive wear also.
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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I romoved the valve covers on both sides and I noticed they both have water deposits in them also little spots of water around inthe top of the head, but none on the dip stick, it, s really very little water I see, but I know I should, nt be seeing any (right). So could this be and intake problem or head gasket problem. Also I removed each spark plug and thers no water present on them. Now do I still remove the push rods to check and see if any are bent or do I need to check something else at this point
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
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Now were getting somwhere, first thing to do is check for a bad headgasket, get the compression guage out and start compression checking all cylinders.

Post back after the test has been done and what you have concluded.

Does it have a antifreeze smell or taste?
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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Do you mean does the water I found in the valve covers smell or taste like antifreeze
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Yes, which would indicate a bad headgasket, cracked block, or intake manifold gasket instead of simple condensation caused by different means.
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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I checked the valve covers out they dont smell like antifreeze and they dont have that sweet antifreeze taste. They got that old, need a oil change oil change bad taste
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Thursday, August 14th, 2008 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
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So it was just regular water? In the combustion chamber also?

Is the noise any louder with cover off? Try oiling the pushrods rockers and other components with engine take note of any differences between no noise and when it starts.

By the way you run it without the drivebelt yet when the noise appears?
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Friday, August 15th, 2008 AT 8:27 AM
Tiny
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Something else can you get the transmission bacj iff and examine the thrust/flex plate for cracks with the flywheel off also check it over for cracks take your time an make sure you clean it.

Then pry the flywheel towards front of engine an engine rear, notice excessive okay? Time to check the crank jounals and main bearing for wear
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Friday, August 15th, 2008 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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I checked the push rods and rocker arms for oil, they are getting plenty of oil, also I poured oil on them while the truck was running, but the noise didn't stop , also do I still need to do the job with the transmission, the flex plate and flywheel? Because i'am really gonna need you to stick with me on this one. Because I though the flex plate and the flywheel where the same thing but I guess they are not. Can you explain that procedure one more time, you left out a few words on your reply and I want to be sure I do the job right the first time. Also when I had the truck running the noise sounds like it's under the intake manifold, I didn't have a peice of hose to hold to my ear and the other end on the manifold to try to pinpoint the location of the noise. I just wanted to mention this to you. Also I know for a fact you are exellent with what you do(IN MY BOOK ) a MASTER, MASTER MECHANIC. Thanks for helping me.
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Sunday, August 17th, 2008 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
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They arnt the same but pretty close, flywheel is related to manual, flexplate to automatic, sorry I typed wrong I meant block plate.

Block plate is the plate on the rear of the motor behind flexplate or flywheel :P.

You gotta check for cracks in the flywheel really well orflexplate, because the cracks expand when hot.

Sorry bout my reply was early morn and I was in a hurry lol.

Well back to the subject.

Pry the flywheel/flexplate forward, and pry it back, you should have hardly any play, if it goes forward and backward with excessie play chances are the journals are worn.
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Sunday, August 17th, 2008 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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I had edited my other post but I think you had read it before I reposted it. But the question was, that the noise sounds like it's under the intake manifold. And when I let the truck run I didn't see any water in the oil, and I have'nt checked the compression yet, but i'll get on the job the first thing monday morning
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Sunday, August 17th, 2008 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
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If you can use a piece of hose to listen to this would be great because it can help pinpoint where its coming from, its not backfiring through the manifold is it? Can you get an audio clip of the sound? Thing with a manifold it can pick up sounds deep in the engine and echo them out and make it easier to hear, noise travels so its hard to pinpoint.

Only thing that doesnt add up here is usually when something is wrong the noise goes away when the engine is warmed not the other way around. Im thinking maybe something has excessive clearence and when it heats up it expands away from the other part causing this noise.

Best bet may be to pull the engine, strip it down and look for wear, manifold, upper and lower will have to come off, then engine can be turned upside down after lifters are removed and marked and you can check the journals with oil pan off.

But get the compression done first.
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Also I asked about a question for your engien previously and you didnt answer I belive.

Here it is.

When you shut the engine off and restart after clanking noise begins, does noise still appear?

Does it go away only after engine has been allowed to cool? How long? Notice any change in anythign when engine starts to clank or right before it?
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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No, it does'nt backfire through the maniflod, and yes I can get a audio clip of the sound on a cassette tape, i'll mail it to you if you like (i'amm just following the rules). The noise starts after the truck has been running for about ten seconds(it;s like plapp, plapp, plapp)and it's there every time I start it and I can shut it off and crank it up again and it's there, buti notice if I put the truck in reverse the noise is'nt as loud, and if I put it in drive it's not as loud, iguess the engine idles down once it's in gear, and idles faster in park but I do know it's idleing correct
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
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So now im thinking possible piston slap issues. Really would like a compression test here, or get the engine out of the vehicle to work on it better. Might have need that flexplate to be checked again also and pryed on to see if the vehicles journals are worn.
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 4:32 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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I talked to a few friends that own them and they said that its normal to make a noise like that, not horribly loud, but should have a bit of noise, how loud we talking. With 200k miles man, im surpised it lasted that long might be time for a rebuild. You can do a decent rebuild for about 500-600 bucks.
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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The noise is loud enough to hear 2 houses up the street from my house, also my wife said she hears the noise in the house when I start the truck up and thetruck is in my driveway and my beedroom is on the back of the house, so I think it's pretty loud, also if I can fit a rebuild in my budget can you tell me how to go about ordering the parts i'll need $500.00-$600.00 is good price. As soon as my son get my compression tester back to me, i'll let you know the readings I come up with
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Have you tryed the thickest oil you can find?

Dependent on the machine shop, a basic one will hone and bore your block for 100 bucks but a rough honing if the cylinders arnt shot should use just a simple honing and call it a day, put on new piston rings, talk to a auto value part store or equivilent. So for about 150-200 bucks you can have a honed or bored out block with new rings on it.

When you have the pistons out, look for bent connecting rods, cracks cracked pistons, pistons scuffed, melted and such.

Next get new journals for the crankshaft, and those are relatively cheap 40 bucks most.
Check the crank shaft for damage cracks and stuff, a cracked crank can still run the engine just fine.

Basically checking specifications and wear, all can be done in one day of hard work.

Check camshaft for wear, lifters, pushrods and such. Exhaust leaks.
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Monday, August 18th, 2008 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
JUNIORRICHARDSON
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What weight engine oil do you recommend as being the thickest oil I can buy
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Sunday, August 24th, 2008 AT 7:32 PM

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