Engine won't stay running, stalls while driving?

This is common when the throttle plate needs to be cleaned here are two guides that will help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down these guides and report back.

What a great post the throttle bore guide helped me fix the problem at no cost lol I love this site.

Truck ran really good til about a month ago. It started to hesitate a little within a week it got worse. Then it just stalled and I had to have it towed home. I changed the gas filter and found my coil wire was bad. So I replaced that and it seemed fine.Coming home from work it started to sputter and stalled and wouldn't start. So I had it towed again.Yesterday I replaced the fuel pump but it will not stay running. It will run then wants to stall then it catches then wants to stall.And now when it runs there is a knocking sound like it's out of oil but it's full. it's a 4.3 w/90,000 mi. Thanks

I try to start my truck and it sounds good for 2 or 3 seconds and it just dies I thought it might be fuel but I put a new fuel pump on it and new relay and it didn't help then I heard it might be a mass air flow sensor so I changed it and it is still doing the same thing I'm not sure what else to try

try resetting security system then scan for codes if that doesn't work.

Car-man145
Oct 21, 2015.

Sound like you may have a theft problem try a different key

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 8Cyl automatic w/ 4wd. I am having problems keeping the motor running. It will start (sometimes) then die randomly even with the throttle fully engaged. It will sputter a little then die. It has fuel, is getting fuel to the injectors.

Alternator problems prior, general clean bill of health, maintained well with regular oil changes at 3000 miles, recent oil change trans fluid and filter change.

This site is great! :-)

Check and test the coolant temperature sensor, check the fuel pressure and clean out the idle air control valve, PCV/EGR valves and see what happens

chevy silverado 2003
is stalling when letting off of the gas to stop or slow down.

Start back up an idle good? check engine light on? plugs, filters ect. in good repair?

idles fine, plugs and filters are good. check engine light has been on for a year but it is because of a upgraded muffler system. Battery did die this weekend because we were playing the radio.

after battery died jumped and truck started fine. the next day is when the stalling started. we did drive 350 miles yesterday on the interstate it was fine but when pulling off on the exit it would stall. so then i put it in to neutral when slowing down and it would not stall then.

Would be helpful to have code in P0xxx format cause there is no code for a muffler

My truck will start fine and run fine until it warms up. Once it is warm it will shut off if i let off the gas in turns and at stop lights. It will start fine after that but will still stall with no rpm's. I have replaced the battery. The alternator was tested and was fine. I have found that the top radiator hose is warm but the bottom is ice cold. Thermostat maybe?

[quote:4aa234ca3d="rhodes.k"]Other Category problem
2003 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 70,000 miles
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My truck will start fine and run fine until it warms up. Once it is warm it will shut off if i let off the gas in turns and at stop lights. It will start fine after that but will still stall with no rpm's. I have replaced the battery. The alternator was tested and was fine. I have found that the top radiator hose is warm but the bottom is ice cold. Thermostat maybe?[/quote:4aa234ca3d]


check air / fuel filter
do you have check engine light on
scan for codes
if not over heating and you have heat inside thermostat ok
scan for history codes
check base idle
check and clean idle air valve
check for vacuum leak
good luck

My pick-up doesn't start right away. If I give the key a turn and then another quick turn it will start up no problem. If the engine is warm it starts right up. Also it shuts off sometimes when I slow down quickly or make a sharp but slow turn but it will start right back up. What does this sound like? Thank you very much.

Check the fuel pressure regulator,mounted on the fuel rail and has a vacuum line to the intake. Pull the vacuum line at the reg and see if it is wet, if so replace it.If dry, have the fuel pressure tested with a manual gauge, might be bleeding down overnight due to weak pump

Engine Performance problem
2003 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic
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I have a 2003 silverado. Yesterday getting on the hi-way, my pick up studdered and then stalled. I started it again and it was barely staying running then died again. Engine lite did come on. Any ideas on what it could be.

since the check engine light is on i would have that scanned for codes and post them back to me to prevent throwing parts at it.

Hello, first, just to specify, my truck is a 6.0L extended cab long bed truck.

Now, this is what I changed before the problem started. Recently, I found that some wires in my truck were being smashed and, in turn, shorted against the firewall by the interior e-brake pedal arm. So, I disconnected the battery to solder the 3 wires back together. I clipped the corroded/broken parts off before soldering, then I heatshrinked them and wrapped them with foam and duct tape. The three wires are purple, orange, and yellow. The yellow one is either 18 or 22 gauge, while the others are around 14 gauge. They go into a connector on the fuse panel under the dashboard which is labeled as "12-way body" in the manual. I reconnected the battery and started the truck, no probs.

Now to the problem. The next day, driving to work, the truck died at my first stop (no check lights). After that I started paying attention to the tach and voltmeter. Only at stops, the tach drops from 750 rpm to about 600, then bounces between 250 and 600. No weird noises, besides the fact that the engine sounds like its dieing. Watching the voltmeter, it drops from just above 14 (normal) to about 10-12v. So far, since this started, my truck has only died 2 times. So, most of the time the engine recovers and goes back to normal idle. I figured out this morning that the lulling/shuddering/low rpms/trying to die is most easily replicated by shifting gears. Every move of the shifter causes temporary lulling/shuddering/low rpms then it goes back to normal idle. The symptoms last for 5-10 seconds after the tranny is done shifting. Still not one check light. Also, this is ONLY during braking/stop.

Right now, I’m just trying to find out the problem maker. I’d like to narrow it down as far as possible by spending the least amount of money because it’s going to be for sale real soon and I have no idea where to start. Please help! Thanks!




Drew

is it possible to take truck to autozone and have the computer scanned for codes. they do it for free. if its transmission sensor or wiring problem it will not set the light on but it will store a code. check that and get back to us

ya i have an 03 chevy silverado lifted 6 inchs it has a 4.8 v8 with around 172573 miles and it been like this for a while i took it in they had no idea y it dose it but it low idles then it dies when i trun park or change gars i have a progarmer on it but when i take it off it dose the same thing if you could help that would be great

Any modification to the air intake? K & N or any aftermaket filters?

[quote:70afe4933b="mitch abraham"]Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 172573 miles
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ya i have an 03 chevy silverado lifted 6 inchs it has a 4.8 v8 with around 172573 miles and it been like this for a while i took it in they had no idea y it dose it but it low idles then it dies when i trun park or change gars i have a progarmer on it but when i take it off it dose the same thing if you could help that would be great[/quote:70afe4933b]

I also have an 03 chevy silverado with a similar and had the same problem and got it fixed. The problem from what I understood is there is a carbon buildup around the air intake and doesnt allow it to "breath" properly. Mine would flutter but if I went around corners the engine would die from the load of the power steering and no gas. It would be ok if I went around the corner with my foot slightly on the gas. You could probably do it yourself and not have the dealer do it.

Truck has low ideling and a tendency to stall when braking and turning, Engine idle fluctuates when AC is used.

have you had anything done to it recently. is it setting a check engine light. could be a possible vacuum line loose. a bad MAF sensor

Get you some intake and throttle body cleaner and a baby bottle brush and take off the air intake and clean out the carbon build up works great my 03 was doing the exact same thing i changed the alternator and battery and still the same thing. $230 later i pick up the $3 bottle of cleaner and it did the trick live and learn

Our 2003 chevy silverado stalls when you stop and drops down to 0 rpm. If we hold onto gas it runs.Also it drags like timing is off but does start right up and runs good.

i have two thoughts. one is the i.a.c. motor isn't functioning properly or the bore that the i.a.c. mounts to has excessive carbon build up and needs to be cleaned. i heard that i.a.c. motors are no longer used. this may be true. it doesn't make a lot of sense to me because the engine needs a way to get air at idle. that's what the i.a.c. motor does. when you decelerate the throttle plate closes thus shutting off air flow through the throttle body into the engine. the i.a.c is mounted below the throttle plate. it has a pintle that blocks a bore in the t.b. when the pcm senses deceleration, the pintle retracts and opens the bore to let air in. if the i.a.c. motor fails and you come to a stop, the engine isn't getting air unless you press the accelerator. that would explain why it stay's running when you press the accelerator. now, having said all that, it could be several other things and have nothing to do with the iac. my second guess has to do with a common gm problem from the late 80's and 90's. the t.c.c. solenoid. (tourqe converter clutch) there are 3 parts of the tourqe converter that join together as your speed increases to lock the engine to the tranny. sometimes a solenoid is used to to lock up the converter. when you decelerate the converter should unlock to allow the engine to idle. the problem was the solenoid would fail and the converter didn't unlock and the engine would stall when you came to a stop. anyway, run that by your local mechanic. let us know

2003 Chevy Silverado 6 cyl 98300 miles

My truck starts and stalls immediately...a list of repairs already done.... spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, lucas fuel cleaner, cleaned throttle body, cleaned iacv, cleaned mass air flow sensor, still same thing PLEASE HELP???

HAS the check engine light come on? It sounds like an ignition module problem. Also, I realize you replaced the fuel pump. What is the pressure you are getting from it?

i cant figure out why my truck battery keeps dying ater i let my truck sit for like a week..it keeps getting worse. it seems like something might be slowly draining the battery but i cant figure it out and help would be appreciated

Do the battery drain test below:

there is time i turn on a/c but the idol goes low and right back to normal idoling it just keep going high and low for a couple of minute and yes it shut off the truck and i started right back up to be on the go
.......when the a/c is off it fine idol is great......

Chances are the throttle position sensor is bad. Has the check engine light come on?

the check engine have turn on at one time for three days and after that it turn off never came back on...

If the light was on, there should be a code stored in the computer. Take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. As them what the codes are and let me know. From that, It will be much easier to determine the problem.

Joe

I have a Silverado 2003. For the past couple months everytime I try to make a turn without coming to a complete stop it dies. When making a turn after a complete stop I never have any troubles just when I drop my speed and coast to turn. I've been told it may be the fuel pump but I don't want to try that first and it not be it, especially due to cost.

Do this first. Get a fuel pressure gauge with a long enough fuel line so that you can tape the gauge to the windsheild and drive it while you monitor the fuel pressure.

after sitting for approxematly 15 minutes it will start and run for 1 minute and then stall and will not run again until it sits for 15 minutes , it will turn over fine but will not fire