Mechanics

CHEVY STALLING

2000 Chevrolet Silverado

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 194000 miles

Our 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 was driven to the store (acting just fine) and when we left the store, it wouldn't idle right, very rough. It wouldn't respond to the gas pedal. We started it several times and it would idle roughly for 5 - 20 seconds before stalling. Finally, it settled into a normal idle and we took it to a repair shop.
The repair shop called us and told us that it would cost us about $1000 to replace the fuel pump and there was 'another problem too, but we'd deal with that after the fuel pump'. I insisted on knowing what the second issue was and they told me it had to do with the 'air intake system' but wouldn't get more specific.

We picked the truck up and brought it home. (Still starting badly with rough idle and stalling but we got it moving.) It stalled three times in a 20 minute drive, while the truck was moving. I followed my husband home and he would just start cruising and slowing down, trying to restart it, till he'd eventually just stop and have to sit there until we got it started again.

Tech codes from receipt:
Perform EEC test: Found P1416 air system. Check fuel pressure: 15PSI. Rec; Fuel pump, F/F.
Tech found code P1416 System Air Bank 2, Fuel Pressure 16pts at axle.


Now, possibly related (or not). My husband was run off the road by an 18-Wheeler the evening before. He was going around 50-60 mph when he was edged off the road by the Semi. Uneven dirt and mud, tall weeds, very bumpy. He's worried something may have happened then to cause these issues.


We do not have $1000 to drop on any kind of repair. We can remove the bed to get to the fuel pump if needed. But I'm not 100% convinced it's the fuel pump. If the system air bank 2 is messed up, could it cause bad idleing/stalling? Would replacing the air pump fix that?

WHERE in the vehicle is the system air bank / air pump (I'd like to look for some loose wires / loose anything).
Avatar
Lizabeta
February 1, 2009.




The incident may just be a coincidence. The fuel pressure is extremely low, that will cause the poor running/stalling, should be 55-62 psi. The code is for the secondary air injection. That is almost always the " gulp" or check valves on the air injection pipes where the rubber hoses hook to the manifold. The valve goes away and the pump cant put air into the exhaust because the backpressure is too strong.I do suggest doing both of them, if one failed the other is usually right behind it and they are inexpensive

Tiny
Jack42
Feb 2, 2009.
The incident may just be a coincidence. The fuel pressure is extremely low, that will cause the poor running/stalling, should be 55-62 psi. The code is for the secondary air injection. That is almost always the " gulp" or check valves on the air injection pipes where the rubber hoses hook to the manifold. The valve goes away and the pump cant put air into the exhaust because the backpressure is too strong.I do suggest doing both of them, if one failed the other is usually right behind it and they are inexpensive. With the fuel pump, check all lines to be sure nothing got smashed when he was run off the road, if all is ok, I strongly suggest using an A/C Delco pump. Others are cheaper, but dont perform as well

Tiny
Jack42
Feb 2, 2009.
Is there a place that shows a GOOD diagram / photograph of what things should look like?

Chilton online is. Bah! I've never felt so taken by a such a well known company. Online they are the anti-helpful.

Tiny
Lizabeta
Feb 3, 2009.
You can try a Mitchell online sub here

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

What is it exactly you want to know should look like?
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Tiny
Jack42
Feb 3, 2009.
A healthy non-damaged fuel pump area and the wires/tubes/ for the system air bank 2.

Tiny
Lizabeta
Feb 3, 2009.
The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. All you have to do is look for any damage to the tank or marks where something may have hit it when he was run off the road. As far as the air injection, I couldnt find any pics of it in Mitchell either. There is a pipe that bolts to each exhaust manifold, at the end of that pipe is the diverter valve or gulp valve that you need to replace. Attached to the other end of the valve is a rubber line approx 3/4 inch in diameter that goes to the air injection pump

Tiny
Jack42
Feb 3, 2009.

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