1996 Chevy Silverado

Check the -ECM Fuse-1. It is located in the fuse block under the hood - on the left side of the engine compartment. I believe it is a 20 amp fuse - this fuse sends power to the injecters (which have power at all times). Being that you have the proper fuel pressure and spark indicates that the injecters are not allowing fuel into the combustion chamber...

[quote:73ccf0ffbd="pear69"]Check the -ECM Fuse-1. It is located in the fuse block under the hood - on the left side of the engine compartment. I believe it is a 20 amp fuse - this fuse sends power to the injecters (which have power at all times). Being that you have the proper fuel pressure and spark indicates that the injecters are not allowing fuel into the combustion chamber...[/quote:73ccf0ffbd]
I checked the fuse ECM fuse 1 and it is good,in fact they are all good. I notice that when I crank the engine, it has backfire every so often. I herd that it's not good to fill the gas tank pass a certain mark? We had filled it with gas cans until it was full, is there a safty device that might not let it start?

[quote:27f1eb932e="pear69"]Check the -ECM Fuse-1. It is located in the fuse block under the hood - on the left side of the engine compartment. I believe it is a 20 amp fuse - this fuse sends power to the injecters (which have power at all times). Being that you have the proper fuel pressure and spark indicates that the injecters are not allowing fuel into the combustion chamber...[/quote:27f1eb932e]
I checked the fuse ECM fuse 1 and it is good,in fact they are all good. I notice that when I crank the engine, it has backfire every so often. I herd that it's not good to fill the gas tank pass a certain mark? We had filled it with gas cans until it was full, is there a safty device that might not let it start?

How did you test he spark? What color is the spark? Observe how strong the spark is..
Over filling the gas tank will not cause the engine to not start..There is no shut off devise.

Remove the plugs - tell me what they look like..and if they all look the same.

[quote:e7ae591f50="pear69"]How did you test he spark? What color is the spark? Observe how strong the spark is..
Over filling the gas tank will not cause the engine to not start..There is no shut off devise.

Remove the plugs - tell me what they look like..and if they all look the same.[/quote:e7ae591f50]
I checked the spark with a tester that connects to the spark plug boot and the other end connects to ground in the center of the tester it has a in close window that one can see the spark. The spark is an orange color and it seems to me to be a strong spark. I checked one side of the spark plugs, right side all 4 and they locked wet with gas and smelled like it also looked kind of black. When we cranked the engine over it sometimes back fires. I also removed the crank sensor and cranked the engine over and there was no spark when the crank sensor was disconnected.

The wet plugs indicates that there is no spark. Also, the spark should be blue in color - an orange spark indicates a weak spark...Test the ignition coil and the ignition module. Also, autozone or a place like that can test both for free....Be very carefull when you unplug the coil and module. The pins inside of these connectors are very easily damaged. Pull the connector straight out - do not wiggle them..

[quote:4f538d41e3="pear69"]The wet plugs indicates that there is no spark. Also, the spark should be blue in color - an orange spark indicates a weak spark...Test the ignition coil and the ignition module. Also, autozone or a place like that can test both for free....Be very carefull when you unplug the coil and module. The pins inside of these connectors are very easily damaged. Pull the connector straight out - do not wiggle them..[/quote:4f538d41e3]
I went ahead and replaced the coil with a new one and it did not start. It smells a lot like raw gas when crank over.

Well that's around 40 bucks down the drain because you did not test the coil. There is no way to determine the problem if you do not test items first. Test to see if there is 12 volts to the coil with the key turned on. Unplug the coil and test the pink wire to a good ground - There should be 12 volts there.
The next step is to test (or have it tested) the ignition module. These are around 75 bucks. If it is ok, test ignition control modules' ground. It is the black wire that connects to the module. Make sure there is good continuity to ground. If ok, then test to see if the module is working properly..You need a 12 volt test light..Do you have a 12 volt test light?
You mentioned that you removed the crank sensor. Did you reinstall it? There will be no spark if the crank sensor is not installed. The computer reads the sensors' input to determine when to send a signal to the ignition control -- which in turn fires the coil..

[quote:344a7582ec="pear69"]Well that's around 40 bucks down the drain because you did not test the coil. There is no way to determine the problem if you do not test items first. Test to see if there is 12 volts to the coil with the key turned on. Unplug the coil and test the pink wire to a good ground - There should be 12 volts there.
The next step is to test (or have it tested) the ignition module. These are around 75 bucks. If it is ok, test ignition control modules' ground. It is the black wire that connects to the module. Make sure there is good continuity to ground. If ok, then test to see if the module is working properly..You need a 12 volt test light..Do you have a 12 volt test light?
You mentioned that you removed the crank sensor. Did you reinstall it? There will be no spark if the crank sensor is not installed. The computer reads the sensors' input to determine when to send a signal to the ignition control -- which in turn fires the coil..[/quote:344a7582ec] Well, There is 12volts at the coil, I bought a ignition control module, that wasn't it ,so I returned it. Next, I was running a compression test, First, I checked the #1 cylinder it had120-180p.s.i. Second, I checked the #3 Cyl. well, I was going to but the truck started, it read 120p.s.i., once it was running! It ran pretty smooth without the #3 spark & plug wire connected. I then connected it back and went to try #5 cyl. but this time the truck would not start. To keep it shot( the truck starts only when I disconnect the #3 spark plug wire,not when it is connected.)

Test the resistance in the wire. It should have about 30000 ohms of resistance ( a rule of thumb on spark plug wire resistance is 10000 per foot). Try switching number 2 plug wire with number 3 -- they are close to the same length..See if the problem switches to cylinder 2..If it does then it is the wire..Remember to use A/C Delco ignition parts ONLY on these engines.. Aftermarket will only lead to more headaches...
Do you have a digital multi-meter to test for voltage and resistance? If not then I suggest purchasing one or borrowing one. Actron automotive multimeters are the best bargan out there, they are sold at Sears and most automotive parts stores, and they are well worth the 60 bucks or so..
Your problem is electrcal, the fact that the engine fires when you disconnect cylinder 3 plug wire is strange. It may be that wire causing the problem - but it is not likely because you found that all 4 cylinders on one side were wet with fuel..
What about the crank sensor? Did you re-install the sensor or did you replace it? If you replaced it, did you have the computer reprogramed to see the new sensor?
The compression seems good, but check all the cylinders. Eventhough it is about 120PSI or so, all of the cylinders must be within 10% or 12% of eachother. If not then the knock sensor may send a trouble signal to the computer.
Did you check the ground to the ignition control module..(it is the black wire on the plug). It should have zero resistance to ground..

[quote:f223c1a1ba="pear69"]Test the resistance in the wire. It should have about 30000 ohms of resistance ( a rule of thumb on spark plug wire resistance is 10000 per foot). Try switching number 2 plug wire with number 3 -- they are close to the same length..See if the problem switches to cylinder 2..If it does then it is the wire..Remember to use A/C Delco ignition parts ONLY on these engines.. Aftermarket will only lead to more headaches...
Do you have a digital multi-meter to test for voltage and resistance? If not then I suggest purchasing one or borrowing one. Actron automotive multimeters are the best bargan out there, they are sold at Sears and most automotive parts stores, and they are well worth the 60 bucks or so..
Your problem is electrcal, the fact that the engine fires when you disconnect cylinder 3 plug wire is strange. It may be that wire causing the problem - but it is not likely because you found that all 4 cylinders on one side were wet with fuel..
What about the crank sensor? Did you re-install the sensor or did you replace it? If you replaced it, did you have the computer reprogramed to see the new sensor?
The compression seems good, but check all the cylinders. Eventhough it is about 120PSI or so, all of the cylinders must be within 10% or 12% of eachother. If not then the knock sensor may send a trouble signal to the computer.
Did you check the ground to the ignition control module..(it is the black wire on the plug). It should have zero resistance to ground..[/quote:f223c1a1ba]I have used a new spark plug wire on the #3 spark plug and it still did not start. Yes, I do have a multi-meter,but I don't know how to use all the positions. Like, the testing for resistance, how is it done? I did plug in my code scaner after the truck started and it had 2 codes (1) was P0101 which is MAF or VAF A circuit Range/Perf (which I don't know what this means). The other code was P0300=Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected; I guess because the truck ran on 6 cylinders when I had #1,3 spark plug wire off. On the plugd been wet, all 8 plugs were wet. The crank sensor is plug in. The compression how exactly is it done, because I had the engine turned over until the gauge reached the highest that it could go. How do I keep the engine from starting, do I disconnect the coil wire to the distributor cap? Again, how do you test resistance on the ignition control module? I checked the ign control module by connecting the test light to the + of the battery and the point of the test light to the Black wire on the module.

Your multimeter should have a setting for resistance. Resistance is measured in ohms. Find the setting on the meter where either a beep is heard when you connect the two leads together and/or the meter goes to 00000 when the leads are touched together. This is the resistance setting..I suggest getting an instruction manual for your multimeter and reading how to use it...You can probably get one on-line somewhere--what type of meter is it?
You test the resistance of the spark plug wire by setting your meter to the highest resistance level and connecting the meter leads to each end of the wire (the wire is disconnected).
To test the resistance to ground on the module - unplug the connector, set the multi meter to the resistance setting , and test the same wire (the black one) to ground..See if there is any resistance there...If there is then clean up the ground that connects to the thermostat housing...

Is the crank sensor new or did you change it?
The p0101 indicates a failing or bad Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter...The p0300 may be a result of many things that have to be tested. Before you go any further, learn how to use the multimeter or take the parts I keep mentioning to Autozone or a place like that and they will test them for free....