1990 Chevy Cheyenne How to replace and where is the Ignitio

No I dont have an alarm system.

I rechecked the power voltage inbetween the neutral safety switch and the connector, and still nothing.

I checked the fuel relay connector and it was fine.

Going to get a new neutral safety switch and a fuel pump relay.

Okay, so I replaced the fuel pump relay, the neutral safety switch and the relay I wasnt sure about.

I tested the connector for the fuel pump relay, it has power, but it didnt hurt to replace it.

So I finally got the plastic column shroud off of the steering column, so got to pull the ignition wires, and get a look at the ignition gears inside.

Pictures are posted. Now, the purple wire (which I was told is the ignition wire), has a break in its insulation right before it inserts into the circuit board. This seems to be what keeps making the relay click repeatedely.

Anyways, after a close inspection of the rest of the wiring, I see nothing wrong. The crack in the wire insulation could be something?

I later took and cleaned all the electrical connections with rubbing alcohol and qtips; they were very dirty and could have been preventing spark?

Tell me if you see anything in the pictures that I dont.

Connect the positive lead of your voltmeter to the purple wire at the ignition switch (poke the lead thru the insulation to contact the copper or touch the bare exposed portion you were talking about), and the negative lead to a good ground. When you turn the key to start, you should read 12 volts.

OKAY: At the ignition switch connector is a purple wire, you will see it in the first picture. This wire, and the grey wire, both show no volts. But the white wire leading into the connector is good, and reads 11.75V when you turn the key.

There is no purple wire leading into the ignition switch itself, but there is Orange, Green, Yellow, Pink, Dark Brown, Dark Grey/Black, and two Red wires.

If no reading, poke the voltmeter lead thru the insulation to either of the red wires at the ignition switch and the negative lead to a ground, and you should read 12 volts without turning the key from the off position. (You said the dash lights come on when you turn the key, so there should be 12 volts here all the time). If no reading, the connector is not making a good contact with the ignition switch.

OKAY: Both of the red wires in this test showed 11.75V again.

Then connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the yellow wire at the safety switch connector (disconnected from the safety switch), the negative lead to ground. Turn the key to start. If you're not reading 12 volts, there's a break in the wire between the ignition switch and safety switch. (Not likely)

OKAY: This yellow wire continuously showed a range of 35 to 40V varying. And I tested at the wire, the connector terminal, and inside the connector terminal getting the same voltage every time.

If you are reading 12 volts at the safety switch when turning the key, then connect the positive lead of your voltmeter to the purple wire at the starter solenoid, and the negative to a ground. Have a helper turn the key to start. You should read 12 volts. If not, there's a break in the wire between the starter solenoid and the safety switch.

OKAY: This purple wire showed no volts until the key was turned, then IT ALSO
continuously showed a range of 35 to 40V like the previous test.

If you are reading 12 volts at the purple wire at the starter solenoid when Becca turns the key to start, the starter is bad.

NEXT:

Get a length of wire long enough to run from the battery to under the dash. Peel � " insulation off each end. Stick one end in the safety switch connector purple wire terminal (disconnected from the switch). Make sure you are in neutral and wheels blocked. Touch the other end to the positive battery terminal. The starter should turn. If not, try the yellow terminal at the connector. If it still doesn't turn, there's a break in the wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. If it does turn over, turn the ignition on and repeat. The engine should start.

OKAY: Nothing as a result of this test. I read elsewhere yesterday to try this and almost tried it last night. Tried it this morning, and not a sound.

Its your ignition starter switch its under the dash on top of the steering column near brake pedal its easy to replace takes about 5-10 min then your truck will start no problem