engine stalls while driving?

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor is going ot which is common here is a guide to help walk you through the steps with the location of the sensor for your car in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

My 99 cavi does almost the same thing. I"t has not cut out on me yet but I have not drove it much since she started acting up. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and took off the catalytic converter. She still runs really rough and spits and sputters. While driving her she did blink out a code so I changed out the crankshaft sensor has been good ever since.

When i stop and start to turn the car stalls. It starts right back up. It also happens when i stop sometimes. It is quite dangerous. Any ideas? I have no error codes and took it to a mechanic who claimed it was the spark plug wires. He was doing it under a free service deal from a used car dealer however. We replaced and it stalled that day on the way home.

Hi:

It could be a couple things. First, check the easy items, air filter, plugs, fuel filter... If no problems, it could be a vacuum leak. Have someone with experience help you with looking for the vac leak.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

Joe

I had a neighbor look at it, who works at a toyota dealership as a mechanic. He told me he couldn't do anything till it actually happened. He said chevy's have notorious fuel pump issues. He said check the same things you mentioned. The plugs and wires and air filter are new.

I have a little better than basic knowledge of cars. Anything i dont know i can look up. Does the fuel pump seem likely though? It sounded like a long shot. Any opinion?

Where would i look for a vacuum leak?

About the fuel filter, i havent checked that. Is fuel filter hard to reach and replace on these cars? Ive only had it 3 months, haven't delved in too much yet.

Hi:

I'm glad you got someone to help. The fuel filter should be along the frame. As far as the fuel pump, it could be going bad. The only real way to check it is when you're having trouble, the fuel pressure and volume needs to be checked. You will the tools to do it correctly. The fuel pressure may be droping. On the other hand, it could be a map sensor, a mass air flow sensor, o2 sensor... There are so many things that could cause that problem. Have the fuel pressure checked. If it's normal, we'll go from there.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

sorry i havent replied sooner. I will look into how to check the fuel pressure. THe neighbor i had helping me turned out to be no real help. But the problem has progressed. Now it stalls if you are idling and turn the air off. It will start to stall and catch itself sometime other times it just stalls. I had the alternator and battery checked because the the clock shut off when the lights turned on. The battery turned out to be bad. Ill reply when i check the fuel pressure. Does this info change anything though?

Hi:
When you had it scanned, was the car running ok? I'm starting to think it may be the TPS (throttle position sensor). Let me know what you find. I'm anxious to hear what you find.

Good luck,
Joe

That was my original thought from looking around. Should i cause the car to stall then put the little diagnostic computer on it? Do you think it would tell me anything?

I believe the car was running fine when i put the tool on it.

Hi:

The engine should be off when you scan the computer. Also, if you need a laugh, I have a Jimmy (S-15) which just started doing the same thing tonight (11:30PM). I'm 99.9% sure it's the TPS. I feel confident that is your problem too. I'll scan it tomorrow to be sure.

To answer your question, I do feel a scan tool may be helpful for you. Hopefully a code has been stored for you. If not, maybe you could get a TPS for it just to try.

JOe

I have replaced the plugs fuel filter and the check engine light said the piston in the egr valve was stuck so i replaced the egr valve.Now no light but the stalling problem is still there also the light flicker when driving at night replaced the battery and had the alternater checked car checked out great even with a load it will run great and rev up without a miss fire at a idle. Im so lost now checked for a vacum leak all lines in great shape.I need any help i can get at this point.

The flicker makes me think there is a ground problem. Check to make sure the main grounds from the battery are clean and tight. If they are, check compression to make sure the engine isn't wearing.

Engine stalls after running car several miles and temp. has reach normal operating temp. When you shut car off for short time and crank it to continue driving it will want to stall, you can take out of gear and raise rpm for several seconds and it clears up. Temp. has risen to about 200 or so while shut down. When I scan computer it gives code that fuel too lean or too much air , where should I begin.

If you have a lean mixture code, have you checked for vacuum leaks?

I have checked for vaccum leaks and can't locate any. Is there a better method other than visual. Also wondering if it's possibly the upstream O2 sensor is bad, this code showed up along the same time the cat. stopped up. I replaced cat. and downstream O2 sensor and erased code and it reappeared. Thanks for your suggestions and have a great day!

As far as vacuum leaks, if you spray carb cleaner on and around them, the engine will rev if there is a leak. I don't like doing it because there is a risk of fire. I would also have the O2 sensor checked if you had a code.

My 97 Cav has been a great running vehicle, have had very few issues over the past 11+ years we've owned it.. the problem I have is that there is a medium-high pitched whine/vibration sound coming from the back of the car... it happens about 80% of the time and when the engine is going to die, the pitch of the sound increases and then stops and the car conks out about 5 seconds later. It almost always happens if I have to stop and go a few too many times, sit idling at red lights, or go thru the drive thru... it just doesn't like sitting still :). I'm not sure if the fuel pump is getting hot and stops pumping fuel or what. Most times I can let the car sit in the off position for a couple minutes and it will restart and I can head on home, sometimes it stops repeatedly and I just want to drive it into the lake.

I replaced the fuel filter at about 90-100k just to see if that was the problem and it made no difference. Anything I can try or test to see if that is the problem before I start ripping out the fuel tank and getting into this repair?? I'm not the most proficient mechanic but I think I can do this repair. I have replaced my entire AC system and several simple repairs like alternator and serpentine belt in the past...

Hi:
First, don't drive it into a lake. (LOL) But I do know what you mean.

It sounds like the fuel pump is bad. A way to test it is to check pressure. If the car dies when at an idle, view the "How To" video and check it in your drive way. My guess is you will have pressure then it will drop.

Here is the video:

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/test_fuel_pressure.htm

If you need the gauge, many parts stores will rent it. If you can't find one, they sell them at the "Test Equipment Store" site on this page. Also, the pressure should be between 41 and 47PSI

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Ok I watched the video and it made perfect sense to check the pressure first. However, I searched and searched and can't locate any place to connect a pressure tester on the fuel rail. I poked around on the internet and asked in a Cavalier forum and it appears that you can remove the fuel filter and connect the tester inline?? I remember that when I replaced the filter I had a really hard time getting it off and back on again. Do you think it is a better use of my time and money to just purchase a new filter and pump and install them both at the same time?? I know replacing the pump is going to be the harder of the 2 tasks but I think the fuel filter might have to be taken out in the process of dropping the fuel tank anyway??

Thanks for your time in reviewing my questions!

because of the cost of the pump, I would recommend identifying that it is bad first. I know it has to be near 200 dollars. And, the tank can be a pain, so if we can avoid that, I would recommend it. And yes, you can check the pressure as you mentioned.

I have a 1997 chevy Cavalier with a 2.2 My oil light has been coming on for a while after it warms up and only when it is idleing. It has enough oil in it the dip stick says it is full. but 2 days ago it has started dieing on me after it warms up. when it cools back down I can drive it agin till it gets warm again. Could this be the oil pressure switch? if not, what could this be?

I changed the oil pressure switch but did not solve the problem. what else could this be?

Use an analog gage in place of the oil sending unit. Double check the oil pressure. Do think the engine is siezing, when it warms up? What is the temp gage showing? When it stalls, can you turn the cranshaft by hand? How long since a tune-up? Any applicable codes?

After the engine is warmed up and runs a couple of miles, it tends to stall and hesitate. After replacing the fuel filter, the problem still remains. However, some days the car runs fine.

If the problem is temp related, check the coolant temp sensor. Can you check for applicable trouble codes? To check codes, yourself, at the least, you need and obd2 code reader. Some of the national brand autostores will check codes for free. Let us know what you find?

Got new alternator, battery,cool packs; plugs,wires,checked battery;modlue. Runs terrific; never know when it going to act up again. I have two kids; and don't trust my car to drive it. It like it has a dead short somewhere.

have your mechanic check the crank position sensor. these never come up in a scan when they are bad. is there a check engine light on?

I could be going down the road at 55 mph; then all the sudden; I can tell in the gas pedal; it's losing power; then the motor just stops. Then I can start it right back and go again.I can drive it for 2 or 3 weeks like a charm; then all the sudden it will do it again. Sounds like something simple;but can't find the problem or the short.

is there a check engine light on? I would check the crank sensor, and fuel pump relay. this is gonna be hard because you cannot mimic it at any time to test the spark and fuel. once again leads me to the crank sensor. just have it checked. or if there is a check engine light on. bring it to autozone they will check it for free and bring the codes back to me and i will look them up for you

first of the year had sugar put in gas tank, cost me over 2k to take care of that problem at reputable car repair shop.

in the last 6-8 weeks, every other week and no joke always close to my payday....the car will just simply die. It has done it 2 blocks from my home during a rain storm, while exiting a fast food location, and just in the driveway. the car will die...and when you hit the key you get no sound at all plus no dash lights. Before asking there is no clicking sound either, there is simply nothing. But, i do have headlights, and 4 way flashers, i think turn signals, but the wipers dont work.
The first time this happend the alternator was bad and was replaced with a tested but good condition used alternator. week or so later it died while driving in rain to work, this time...the next day, a connecting wire to the starter was a bit loose, so we tightened it, but still wouldnt start. removed battery to have it load tested, when battery was replaced car started, but battery tested fine. One other time a wire to the battery terminal was loose and this fixed it and it started. but this time, today, it died while leaving fast food place and has the same issues as earlier, no sound no dash lights nothing when turning the key. Fuses have all been checked and are fine. Im at my wits end! please help

[quote:f6c7f497c2="dreamer37"]Electrical problem
1997 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles

first of the year had sugar put in gas tank, cost me over 2k to take care of that problem at reputable car repair shop.

in the last 6-8 weeks, every other week and no joke always close to my payday....the car will just simply die. It has done it 2 blocks from my home during a rain storm, while exiting a fast food location, and just in the driveway. the car will die...and when you hit the key you get no sound at all plus no dash lights. Before asking there is no clicking sound either, there is simply nothing. But, i do have headlights, and 4 way flashers, i think turn signals, but the wipers dont work.
The first time this happend the alternator was bad and was replaced with a tested but good condition used alternator. week or so later it died while driving in rain to work, this time...the next day, a connecting wire to the starter was a bit loose, so we tightened it, but still wouldnt start. removed battery to have it load tested, when battery was replaced car started, but battery tested fine. One other time a wire to the battery terminal was loose and this fixed it and it started. but this time, today, it died while leaving fast food place and has the same issues as earlier, no sound no dash lights nothing when turning the key. Fuses have all been checked and are fine. Im at my wits end! please help[/quote:f6c7f497c2] removed a fusible link and direct wired, still because of not much spark from the battery ,when shorting across terminal, car was jumped still nothing from turning key in the ignition. But, after having key on jumper cables in place and shorting across the starter the car started, and has restarted several times since, but im not content the problem has been resolved....Still need help!
update: there is power to the wire running from the battery to the under hood fuse/relay box but no power to fuses within the under hood fuse/relay box.

Hi dreamer37,

Thank you for the donation.

When problem occurs, if battery voltage is not present at the Ignition Fuse ( 50A) in underhood fuse box, either the connection from battery is bad or the fuse box ia faulty internally.

My cavalier runs great and it only has trouble when is wants to.. It stalls going down the road now lights come on you coast to ou stop and put it in park hit the key and away you go might run for 500 miles or 50 it has a mind of its own. I put it on the scanner looking for codes but nothing. is this electrical or machanical I don't know

This is a good one.A lot of the time when electronic componets heat up they fail.which makes for hard diagnosos.I have found that the ECM is most often the gremlin.But hard to say without being there..just a thought for you

1997 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 22,000 The engine races on its own. Also accelerates from about 45 up to 90 mph maximum throttle on its own; brakes don't stop it, have to shift to neutral and turn off ignition switch. Intermittent situation can't prove it to dealer. Sometimes engine will stall while driving 35 to 60 mph. Could this be the cruise control? Have you heard this before?

Yes. The cruise control could cause your problem – acceleration on its own. The cause of the engine stalling 35 to 60 mph could be many things. Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. The computer will store any fault or error codes. Having it scanned will retrieve these codes and pinpoint the malfunctioning component.

may be a vacuum leak problem?

I have a 97 chev cavalier , it broke down mechanic put in a battery. week later died again, jumped it brought it back he thought the radio even though it doesnt work was somehow hooked up so that it was sucking juice from battery. 2 days ago died again, started back up but dash was going crazy on way home and every time i touched the brake felt like it wanted to die. died again when i got it home. next day jumped it and it started but when i touched brake felt like it wanted to die and dash still going nuts. then when went to put in reverse it just died again. what could it be

beth it sounds like you need an alternator.

Did you or someone put the radio in the car before this happened or had it been in the car for a while? From the description you have given I would have the altinator checked !! The new battery had enough juice to work ok for a few days but when it started to get low it acted like the old one, when a car is running off the battery and the voltage gets low it would act the same way as you described.