Blinker problems

Tiny
CHEVYBROBLEM
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Blinkers stopped working along with my brake lights. Checked all fuses and none blown
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Monday, January 17th, 2011 AT 5:25 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Do the hazzards work? Third brake light work?
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Monday, January 17th, 2011 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Try messing with your emergency flasher switch.
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Monday, January 17th, 2011 AT 6:38 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Might be your multifunction switch in column. The thing you do the blinkers with.
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Monday, January 17th, 2011 AT 6:46 AM
Tiny
LITLJON
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
Electrical problem
1996 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl

no brake hazard turn signal lights, No the high mount brake light. Running lights work. Bulbs and fuses flasher good multi switch new. I do have power at fuses and the multi-switch.
WHAT else could it be?"
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
How did you test the flasher unit? Looks like itis solid state. Start by testing for power at the brake light switch, orange wire should have power, then white gets it when brake applied. The 3rd brake light doesnt go through the flasher unit, should work if it has power and good bulbs. There are 3 fuses for the system, ext lp- 20 amp, turn/back up-10 amp, stop/hazard -20 amp
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DJMK1955
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
Electrical problem
1996 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I HAVE NO BLINKERS OR FLASHERS. I WAS TOLD IT IS THE FLASHER SO I BOUGHT ONE IT IS A BLACK SQUARE PLUG SO IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE UNDER DASH BY STEERING WHEEL I CANT FIND IT. HELP.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
LH Lower I/P Near Steering Column


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_t_24.jpg



The hazard flasher is located under dash panel, left side of steering column.

The turn signal flasher is located under dash panel, right side of steering column.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEWLZ07
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 123,000 MILES
My battery won't hold a charge. I have to jump start it everytime. While it's running the blinkers won't work, the horn won't sound, the radio cuts out, and all of the dash lights go out. I jumped it, and removed the cable to the battery, and it died automatically. Which lead me to think it was the alternator. I removed the alternator an had it tested. Works fine they said. Now what should I check first? I am doing the repairs myself. So if u have a step by step guide that would be great! Thank you
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
AGGGGHHHH!

DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY CABLE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!

That was a trick done many years ago by mechanics who didn't understand how these simple systems work or how to diagnose them. Today, with all the expensive computers on cars, a lucky inexperienced mechanic who pulls this stunt will get one verbal warning from his supervisor. If he's caught doing that a second time he is likely to be fired. It's that big a deal.

Every year I did a demonstration on the alternator test bench for my students to show what can happen when you do that. It was real easy for the voltage to reach over 35 volts. That WILL destroy any computer on the vehicle, the generator's internal diodes and built-in voltage regulator, and any light bulbs that are turned on.

The thinking is that if you disconnect either cable and the engine stays running, the generator must be working but a lot of them will stop working due to the voltage regulator responding to the dips in the "ripple" voltage being produced. That will make a perfectly good generator appear to be bad so that test is not valid.

Some generators respond to the high points in the ripple. That momentary higher voltage goes right back to the field winding and creates a stronger magnetic field. That stronger electromagnet creates a higher output voltage which again creates a stronger electromagnet. It's a vicious circle and voltage can keep on rising until something gives out. The main thing that smoothes out that ripple so it doesn't affect the voltage regulator or the generator is the battery.

Three things are needed to generate the output current. They are a magnet, (electromagnet, in this case), a coil of wire, and most importantly, movement between them. That's why the belt needs to make it spin. One thing that can save you from doing damage by removing a battery cable is not raising engine speed. Generators are relatively inefficient at low engine speeds and their output voltage is less likely to rise to dangerous levels, ... As long as you don't raise engine speed.

One other thing to keep in mind is batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas. Regardless if your generator is working or not there is going to be a big spark when you remove a battery cable with the engine running. Either the generator's current will be recharging the battery, and that can be up to 20 amps, or the battery is going to be supplying the car's electrical systems, and that can easily be over 30 amps. That kind of current is going to create a big spark when a connection is broken or reconnected. Small arc welders run as low as 40 - 60 amps and look at the sparks they create. The reason we don't hear about more battery explosions is because people are careful to not disconnect the cables when there is current flowing through them. It's also why there are huge warning labels on all battery chargers to be sure they are turned off before connecting or disconnecting them from the battery.

Another common generator problem is one defective diode out of the six. You will lose exactly two thirds of the generator's capacity but system voltage will remain normal or it could even be just a little high from the voltage regulator responding to the greatly increased dips in the ripple voltage.

It's always a good idea to wear safety glasses when working around car batteries, but if you still insist on removing a cable while the engine is running, a face shield makes more sense, and have plenty of water on hand to wash any acid off the vehicle's paint.

Ford used to have a really nice generator design that allowed testing right on the back of the unit. Only Chrysler alternators are easier to diagnose. Unfortunately the engineers don't really care about ease of service and on yours one of the key test terminals is no longer accessible.

Start by measuring the voltage on the large output wire bolted to the back with the engine off. You should find full battery voltage there, approximately 12.6 volts if it's fully charged. The small brown wire will have about one or two volts before the engine is running. The battery light will on too. That wire should go to 12 volts when the system is working to turn the dash light off.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUMP_ABOUT_CARS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • CHEVROLET CAVALIER
One day they wouldnt come. They wouldnt come on in the dash board either. And we already bouth a new switch, but what else can be wrong? A cavalier I think its a 96 or 97
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RWDCAVY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Underneith your dash there is a round silver fuse conected to 2 wires which is the fuse for your signals, its located on the right side under the steering colum, if u need more info just post again with info
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TITANSFAN1105
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 197,000 MILES
My 96 cav z24 has something wrong with it. The blinkers and tailights dont work. The man I bought it from said it was a fuse but we replaced that and still no luck. The person I bought it from had alot of things wired up in there and there was alot of loose wires. That could have something to do with it. What do you think could be wrong with it. Also once it gets up to about 65 it doesnt want to acclerate any faster.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Hmm, well sounds like alot of messed up wiring to me, your best bet is a specialty shop.

The 65 mph problem may be electrical or not, but since you say things are loose and spliced I wouldnt doubt the lights are inoperative due to the wiring.

See it alot.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DHICKERSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 22,000 MILES
My right rear turn signal and brake light have stopped working. When I remove the plastic cover, the signal and brake light work properly. When I replace the cover and close the back (on my station wagon) and test the turn signal and brake light, neither one work. I do not know what to do next.

Thank you.

P.S. I failed to mention that I replaced the black socket too. Does that make a difference in the suggestions you gave me? Thank you so much.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Take the bulb out and spray some contact cleaner in the socket, put in some dielectric grease and new bulb, see if that helps, it's a corrosion or contact problem, any greenish goop in the socket, and you might want to buy a new pigtail. There is a small spring under the middle lead, it could be disolved away!
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISTLEBRANDON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
I have a1992 chevy cavalier with 188,000 miles i'm having a problem with my turning signals. I have headlights breaklights and also hazards but no turning signals I replaced all of my bulbs thinking that was the problem but there still not working i've been looking for a picture of my fuse box online but I can't seem to find one I want to make sure I have all of my fuses right if you could help me with my problem I would really appreciate it ! Thanks for your time!
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRONICSILVER
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
The easiest way to find out if the fuse(s) are bad is to actually pull them out, one at a time, and check every single one, unless you have a fuse card. Another thing that could help is a cheap fuse tester that you can get from Advance, which won't require you to take out the actual fuse.
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Saturday, April 25th, 2020 AT 5:08 PM (Merged)

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