Trunk release not working

Can you get the trunk open at all? I would check the easiest at first, the actuator on the lid. It might be hidden by a liner held on with clips. If you have and can use a test light, connect it across pins 'A'(tan/white) and 'B'(black). Push the door button and/or fob button, the light should light. If it don't, then check the 'trunk dr release' fuse in left rear fuse block(under rear seat bottom that pulls up). There is a relay(trunk dr rel solenoid) also located in the left rear fuse block. Listen for this to click when trunk switch is pressed. Let me know the progress.

If you have power on the circuits I described, replace the trunk release actuator/latch.

I don't understand what your after. If you checked power and ground with the info listed above, and you still get nothing from the release solenoid, replace the solenoid/actuator.

The rear integration module provides the ground signal to control the trunk release micro relay. At the trunk release solenoid connector, The tan/white wire (pin a) should be hot when a request to open is sent. That validates the relay, fuse, and signal. If you have that signal, then check pin B black wire continuity to ground, it is G402 located in the trunk by the left(drivers side) taillight.

As simple as the system should be, it isn't. With what you have done so far, it looks like you only have a few possibilities. Control of the relay is done by the rear integration module grounding it, and that appears to be what is missing. It grounds the relay in response to messages sent to it on the data line, this is where the integration of the key-less path, and the door switch path, is made. You should be able to verify that you have two powers at the relay connector, and then you would almost need a scan tool to read data and see if the RIM is getting a trunk release request. If it is, then you could have a bad RIM, missing power on the control side(which is on the same fuse through a joint connector in the fuse block), or an open ground circuit between the relay and the RIM.

If you are using a known good ground and probing the tan/white wire, you are not getting power from the relay. If you are getting relay activity, that means the fuse is good, it supplies both the control side and the controlled side. Next you would check the continuity of the tan/white wire to the fuse block terminal R33 if it is labeled.

Your welcome, glad I could be of some assistance.

I assume you have the vehicle listed on this heading. If so, there are a number of ways to figure this out however, the best way to do this is to check for your draw with everything hooked up and then start unhooking the components on this wiring diagram one at a time until the draw is gone. More then likely this is the actuator in the rear to release the trunk.

I would just go right to that and see if this causes the draw to go away and if it does then replace it. Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks