Battery light is coming on?

GERMER2002

MEMBER
1998 HONDA ACCORD
183,000 MILES

Brake light, battery light, and door lights are coming on along with the trunk light. We just replaced the battery that tested bad and alternator that also tested bad. They are not stayin on. Any ideas?

Monday, September 2nd, 2013 AT 12:23 PM

74 Replies

SATURNTECH9

MECHANIC
30,870 POSTS

At idle what does the battery voltage read? these guides should help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

ANAFOZIE

MEMBER
3 POSTS
1997 HONDA ACCORD
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
155,203 MILES

Hi all,

I am in dire need of your help I bought a the car listed above with a v6 vetch. I went to get a oil change and I was told I had a leak in two places one by the transmission and one by the oil pan. I took it to a shop where they fixed the leaks by replacing the transmission gasket. Everything was running fine until I made a trip back to Sacramento and the oil light kept coming on. But the oil levels are fine both in the engine oil and the transmission oil. When I drove my car back from home today, I pressed on the gas and the car hesitated before it moved and the check engine light came on for a second and my car barely starts now with a funny smell to it. My battery light keeps coming on as well, I had my alternator and battery tested and the test came out fine. Would anyone please give me some insight on what may need to get fixed? I also found out I have a short in my car as well, my motor to my seat had burned out.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,727 POSTS

There's too may things that require a visual inspection, but I can offer some suggestions for the "Battery" light. When it turns off periodically, there is not a permanent failure, ... Yet, and it can go like that for weeks or months, but what is important is any testing of the charging system must be done while the problem is occurring, meaning while the warning light is on. When the light goes off, there is no defect at that time, so no problem will be found.

The most common cause of intermittent charging system operation is worn brushes inside the generator, especially at the mileage you listed. There can be intermittent wiring connections too, but those are much less common.

As for the "Oil" light, that is referring to low engine oil pressure, not level. Your mechanic can use a mechanical gauge to check the actual pressure. If that is good, the oil pressure sending unit, (sensor) is the typical suspect.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

ANAFOZIE

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you for your response. My car will not turn over now. Before my car stalled all the accessories stopped working ie lights, the speedometer, rpms. Erc The battery is dead. I had my battery and alternator tested before this happened. I was told my alternator was ok. My battery test good. I am wondering if it is the wiring connection. In my first post I had mentioned the seat motor not turning on, when I tried to put in a new fuse, the kept burning out. I had a new starter put in prior to fixing the oil leaks. If I do have a electric problem where can I take it to get it fix?

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,727 POSTS

I can only offer two suggestions for the electrical problem. You said the battery is dead. That is proof the charging system stopped recharging the battery, and that tells me it is almost a certainty the system was tested while it was working. As I mentioned in my first reply, you have to catch it while the problem is occurring. During those times it is working, there's nothing wrong, so everything is going to test okay.

Use an inexpensive digital voltmeter to measure the battery voltage. If the battery is good and fully-charged, it will be 12.6 volts. If you find it's closer to 12.2 volts, it is good but discharged. Charge it with a portable charger for an hour, at a slow rate, then try to start the engine. If the engine starts, measure the battery voltage again with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts.

If everything is dead and the battery is fully-charged, follow the smaller positive battery wire to the under-hood fuse box. Be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body sheet metal and be sure that connection is not rusty.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

ANAFOZIE

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you again for this information and Wisconsin, whew quite a ways! Haha. Ok so I found out that I have a bad battery. I had Autozone charge and test my battery. I will try these methods out and post a update. I appericate your time.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

JAVABABY

MEMBER
7 POSTS
1997 HONDA ACCORD
4 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
172,000 MILES

You guys please answer my question! My belts popped off for no reason. I let the guys @ an auto part store do an electrical test for my battery, alternator and starter (you know). All he did was connected his machine to my battery, had me cut on my A/C and raised the engine a little. He never touched my belts or came on that side of the car. when I drove off my car went crazy!!! My charge battery light came on so I pulled over and opened my hood, my belts was rattling like crazy. I turned around to go back and it was very hard to turn my stirring wheel. then it cut off. I opened my hood and my belts had come off. WHY? The AAA man came and tried to help me. He said he worked for Honda. He asked me if I had enemies because it looked like my car had been tampered with, but that's not the case. He said my bolt was coming out and he said something about a pulley(?). He actually pulled out tools and put my belts back on (I love you guys for that) but it didn't work. After I drove off it did it again. Please tell me what's wrong so I'll know what to say. I'm sick and you guys advice would make me feel better. Please forgive me for no donation, I'm broke!! I appreciate you guys advice like I know you personally. And speaking for the ladies, you guys save us at least 1 or $200 just because we know what we're talking about when we come in. I'm on the bus and it's hot out here. PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME!.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

F4I_GUY

MECHANIC
3,302 POSTS

There's really no big mystery here. The belts became loose over lack of maintenence and evenutally came off. You will have to purchase new belts and tension them properly.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,727 POSTS

Don't panic if you don't hear from me for two days. I have to drive ten miles to town to sit in parking lots and use their wireless internet. It's snowing a pile tonight and I might not get out tomorrow.

Would you mind keeping the doors to your house open so it gets warmer outside!

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

JAVABABY

MEMBER
7 POSTS

I told you guys advice makes me feel much better!

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

ANAFOZIE

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Its was the alternator bad I replaced it again and everything worked.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

CARADIODOC

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33,727 POSTS

Keeping my fingers crossed.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)

CPAMBURGY

MEMBER
1 POST
1997 HONDA ACCORD
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
350,000 MILES

Car has been daily commute no issues until battery light came on. Had alternator and battery tested. Alternator tested as overcharging the battery 16.6. Replaced alternator and battery. Battery light is still on. Starter has also been replaced within the last month. What could be causing the issue? At times the light flickers off and on. Any ideas?

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)

KASEKENNY

MECHANIC
18,907 POSTS

The battery light coming on only indicates the operating voltage is low. If the alternator and battery have been replaced, it is possible that the ECM is the issue. Your vehicle has the voltage regulator inside the alternator but the ECM is what controls the regulator. It is less likely that they ECM is the issue on these types of vehicles but if not tested properly on the vehicle with what is called a VAT 40 tester then we don't know that.

I attached the tests for you to review but again, we need to find a shop with this tester so we know for sure which is the issue.

Images (Click to make bigger)

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)

MEMBER
14 POSTS
1996 HONDA ACCORD

1996 Honda Accord 6 cyl Automatic 95000 miles

Is there any connection between

1) the battery light coming on;
2) the a/c blowing warm air;
3) and the a/c clutch coil needing to be replaced.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

Hi there,

They can be related because AC and alternator utilises the same belt and pulley. A broken or badly slipping belt will cause the problem.

Without any recharging of the battery, the voltage might drop too low for the AC coil to operate.

Check for a faulty pulley if the belt is not broken. The pulley has a rubber damper ring which might have come detached so the pulley is freewheeling on the inner power steering pulley.

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)