Battery light goes on and off the all lights

The alternator has to be tested while the battery light is on.

Your description is a bit confusing. "No battery light the 2 or 3 day the light came back on". Was the battery light on before and that's why you went to the shop, or was there some other problem?

Worn brushes inside the alternator are a very common problem and that will cause intermittent operation. Any testing has to be done while the problem is occurring, meaning the warning light is on. The brushes can be replaced separately but since it takes extra time, most people just replace the entire alternator.

A break in one of the wires can also cause intermittent operation and a few quick voltage tests will verify that before the alternator is replaced.

Wrenchtech is right. The secret here is the alternator has to be tested while the light is on indicating the problem is occurring. Intermittent problems are always frustrating because you can never know for sure if you fixed it. You only know you didn't fix it if it acts up again. In this case though there is a real common cause for this symptom. It can happen on any car but it seems to occur most commonly on Chrysler products with Nippendenso alternators. On some of the front-wheel-drive vehicles the brushes can be replaced without removing the alternator from the engine. A stamped cover has to be unbolted first. The brush assembly costs about ten bucks, but you would have to do this yourself. Very few mechanics will repair an alternator because they want to know it's repaired right the first time and won't let you sitting somewhere. For that reason they are going to install a professionally rebuilt unit with a warranty. You'll pay more for parts but a lot less for labor so your cost will be the same either way. If anyone is willing to replace just the brushes, they may have more time on their hands than they know what to do with, which is never a good sign, but don't be angry with your mechanic if he refuses to do that.

I don't recall anyone suggesting to change the alternator. The voltage regulator is built into the PCM on that vehicle and you need some testing before throwing any more parts at it.

My newest service manual is for a 2006 and there's no reference to a code 17. Perhaps brother Wrenchtech will have a description.

Normally a break in the control circuit, including the circuitry in the PCM, sets the diagnostic fault code "field circuit not switching properly". I guess I'll be happy if the charging problem is fixed, but only time will tell.

P0017-CRANKSHAFT-CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT-BANK 1 SENSOR 2

That sounds like a stalling "snow job". He could clear everything right then and there and if it comes back, he has a problem to find. He's trying to buy time til it's not covered.