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Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Tiny
KATES0103
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
Does the engine coolant temperature sensor control both the condenser fan and the radiator fan? The car sat up for about 6 months, and now neither of the fans will come on. They both worked when we parked it. I was able to jump the fans directly from the battery and they both work. The fuses are fine too. The fans just won't come on. A guy at the auto parts store said that the engine coolant temperature sensor may be the problem. Can that little part be the root of the issue?
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Saturday, March 6th, 2010 AT 6:59 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Hello,

The engine coolant sensor is near the distributor here is a guide that will walk you through the steps with diagrams below to show you on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Saturday, March 6th, 2010 AT 8:54 PM
Tiny
PATRICK4286
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1997 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 97 Acura Integra and have been having check engine light issues. The issue I'm trying to address here is that of my ECT sensor. The code was for high input to this sensor. I checked the voltage on the wiring harness and was getting battery voltage when according to both the repair manuals I have I should only get 5 volts. I measured the voltage that was coming out of the ECU for the sensor and I got 5 volts, as well as continuity between the wire coming out of the ECU and the voltage wire on the ECT sensor wiring harness. So, I guess my question is, how do I have separate voltages on a wire that has continuity? And how do I address this issue and get this check engine light off?

Thank you for any assistance,
Patrick
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Check voltage at TPS and IAT.
Let me know
Thanks for donate
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PATRICK4286
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Don't mind donating one bit if this site can help me figure this damn car out. Well, the voltage for the TPS and IAT are both 5V
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
TPS, IAT, ECT and O2 all get 5V on green/black wire from ECM. So somewhere after wire breaks out to ECT it must be in contact with another wire carring 12V. Any recent repairs that could have pinched wiring? Was wire you checked continuity on ECM D 11?
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PATRICK4286
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
There is continuity with the ECM, and on the ECM side there is 5V to ground. I have replaced the timing belt last fall and the speed sensor last month. Don't think I would have pinched any wires doing those jobs.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
When you checked voltage at ECM was connector off? If yes connect and back probe wire
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PATRICK4286
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
No the connector was on and I back probed it like you said.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
INTEGGY95
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1995 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
I am curious as to why my Integra has this issue with the temperature gauge slowly rising past the halfway mark when I am in heavy traffic? I noticed it for the first time a few days ago. I have a feeling that the fan doesn't turn on because I never hear it come on and that concerns me. I think it may be a combination of the cooling fan switch, coolant temp sensor, and the thermostat or any of those by themselves. Which one would most likely be the culprit?
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Well some where wire is picking up 12v you could check wiring from ECT to ECM or run another wire
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,136 POSTS
You can check the fan by running it at a fast idle (1500-2000 rpms) and watch to see if the fans work. If the radiator gets hot then the tstat opens. If the fan doesn't come on then check it for power and ground. If its got both and doesn't work then the fan is bad. If it doesn't have power and ground then the switch is probably bad.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PATRICK4286
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Well, I feel like an ass. I was getting my voltage reading from the temperature sensor that is more towards the intake manifold. The one directly below the distributor does have the correct voltage of 5V. I pulled the back up and ecm fuses and waited 10 seconds before putting them back in and the check engine light went off but came right back on within 2 seconds of the engine running.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
I figured something was wrong cause if continituy on wier and 12v would have 12v at ECM. Check for continuity on ECT red/white wire to D2 on PCM also ohm check ECT cold high resistence as it warms resistence drops
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 2:22 PM (Merged)

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