Ignition Switch?

Tiny
GUSTAFA75
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
When I started the Suburban and shifted into drive, the gear indicator line did not move and the speedometer did not work. I turned it off and restarted, the gear indicator line was not there and the speedo still did not move and the airbag light was on. I took it to Autozone and the only code that was pulled was from the history and it was for a TPS. After plugging the diagnostic reader up to the Suburban it was fine and everything operated normally. Driving down the road and the parking brake light came on. Turned it off and restarted it was fine. Took it to the dealership today and they said that I have a faulty ignition switch and want to charge me $165. My question is when I do a search on the internet two parts come up and they are a module and the lock cylinder, which one is the dealership talking about? Each are about $40 and would this be feasible for me to change out, do I need any specialty tools?

Thanks ahead of time,
Gus
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Thursday, December 19th, 2013 AT 11:46 AM

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Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Item 7 in pic the module. Here are the instructions on how to replace the ignition key and tumbler for you car in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Thursday, December 19th, 2013 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
GUSTAFA75
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Sorry for the late reply but that was exactly the problem. Thanks for the help!
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Tuesday, September 30th, 2014 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
TED MORETA
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  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 72,000 MILES
My key does not turn in the ignition however the steering wheel is not locked. I plan to replace the ignition key tumbler assembly. Can you tell me how to remove and replace the assembly. I'm hoping I dont have to pull the steering wheel.

Thanks
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_1015.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname2_287.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname3_108.jpg

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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FAUXTEXAS
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  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
The key will not turn the ignition switch
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
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I want to verify that you can not get the key to turn out of the LOCK position?

I'll be right back.

There are 4 things that I see over and over again, that keep an ignition lock cylinder from turning.

1.
The steering wheel lock is under pressure.

When you turn off your car and remove your key.
A spring loaded post sticks up in to one of many holes in the steering wheel.
This locks the steering wheel in place, making your car harder to steal, because a bad guy cant turn the steering wheel if they somehow get your car started without the key.

But this can also keep you from turning the ignition lock.
If the steering wheel is under pressure because your front wheels are against a curb, or you have the wheel cranked all the way to one side or the other. The pressure from the steering wheel on the spring loaded post keeps you from being able to turn the key.

So while trying to pull the steering wheel one direction or the other, try to turn the key, this may solve your problem.

2-A.
The pins are not falling into place.

You kinda need to know how a lock works for this part.
Look at a key and you will see there are different depth cuts in it.
Those different cuts correspond with different length pins in the lock cylinder.
See how the red pins are of different length?
But with the key inserted, they are all even with the blue pins.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/281878_Pin_tumbler_with_key1_1.jpg



When the red pins are held in the correct position by the correct key, the spring loaded blue pins are flush with the outer housing of the lock, and the red pins are flush with the inner cylinder of the lock
And thus the inner cylinder can be rotated.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/281878_250pxPin_tumbler_unlocked1_1.png



If debris such as pocket lint, ear wax, or just plain old dirt gets into the pins and causes enough friction for the spring loaded blue pins to not be able to push the red pins back in place.
Then the red pins will be partially stuck in the hole for the blue pins and the cylinder can not turn.

Putting the key in the lock and then tapping on it with a small hammer may help until you have the chance to have the lock cleaned.

Do a search for the word "bump key" if you want to know more about how a lock cylinder works.

2-B.
The same goes for if a key is worn out.
If a key is badly worn, then it will not put the red pins in the correct spot and some of the pins will keep the cylinder from turning.

If your key is worn out, try a spare if you have one.
Or put the key in and "Jiggle" it while trying to turn the lock.

3.
A problem with the interlock cable from the gear selector to the lock cylinder. Make sure you are completely in park.
You pretty much have to take things apart and visually inspect it to verify this problem.

4.
A mechanical problem with the linkage from the lock cylinder to the electrical part of the ignition switch.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FAUXTEXAS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I tried all your suggestions except for the taking apart. I got a manual & will start down the uglier road shortly
Thanks
Robert
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAAZIEL HAMPTON PICKEL
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  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My old lock cylinder was not allowing the key to be turned to lock to release the key. We got new cylinder and it works outside just fine. Second it is installed we can turn it to start and run but still will not turn to lock and release the key. Help!
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Two things come to mind first is the ignition switch is locked up or the interlock solenoid is not working not allowing the key to be fully turned off. Here are diagrams to help you see what I am talking about. Try to turn the switch with the key out. Use a screwdriver to work the switch.

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGELO159
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  • 2002 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 208,000 MILES
Due to a leaking windshield, water had gotten the steering column wet. A few times. Not sure how bad. Looks to have been a few drops that splatter on the top cover.

My problem is that the right blinker, brake lights, ignition (accessories), cruise control are all not working properly.

The left blinker, windshield wipers (all functions), brights, horn all work fine.

The right blinker works but it will stay on. No blinking go on, only when I manually control it. Also, a noise coming from around fuse panel area will make a buzz sound when I use the right blinker. The brake lights are on the entire time while driving or in park. Here the kicker though; if I keep my foot on brake pedal and then take keys out of ignition, the car will stay running until I take my foot off the brake pedal. Then it will turn off. But when it is off I can push the brake pedal and car acts like the key is in and turn to "on" (radio, dash lights, air will all turn on) without keys even in the truck.

Today I thought I would mess with it. I took covers off the steering column. Proceeded to look around the ignition area. Disconnected to top three wires above ignition. Then reconnected it. I do not why but it worked! No more problem blinkers all work. Brake pedal does not turn car on. And brake lights worked normally. So I celebrate quickly and go to put the cover on carefully. And just as I got the top half on. I tested it again. And it went back to acting up. Bummer.

So taking the cover off I tinker more. And found out that if I either have the hazards on, or the right blinker on the brake will not turn the car on. Maybe extra resistance in the circuit may play a factor. I do not know. Think it might be running through my blinker into my brake. So yeah any help or direction would be awesome.

I looked up a couple things and it led me here. So I thought I would throw this out there and see what I get. Thanks.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello,

It sounds like you have an ignitions witch that is shorting out. Here is some diagrams that will help you get the switch changed out.

Also I have some wiring diagrams and a guide to help you do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LORI SHEPHERD DEBOSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 17,643,290 MILES
Car crank up but the battery light was still on. So I turned the car off now the car security is blinking and I cannot turn the key. Replaced the battery but still no turn action.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello Lori,

It sounds like the ignition switch tumbler needs replacing. This happens becasue the keys gets worn out due to usage which is normal.

If you get a new tumbler make sure you have the old key made to fit it or the car will not start. You can go to a locksmith and they can make that happen, here are some diagrams that should help you get the repair done.

Please let me know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DENNISW59
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Electrical problem
2001 Chevy Suburban V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

have bought new remote after other has stop working have tried to program them buy holding unlock down and turning switch on and off twice then release unlock button and hold lock and unlock at same time on remote for over a minute is there a relay I should be looking at?
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DR LOOT
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,311 POSTS
First of all do your power door locks work manually? If they do not work. You can not program the remote, you may have to take it to the dealer and have them on the scanner and do it manually. Or the remote is not compatible to your system., And if you bought it off of eBay a may be no good.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Why dont you just try this first, Close all the vehicle doors.
Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder.
Press and hold the door unlock switch.
While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF.
Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode.
Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter.
Repeat the previous step to program up to four transmitters.
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter mode.
Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 5:05 PM (Merged)

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