Hello

I believe they conducted a very extensive leak test. They kept the car for a couple of days, and told me the only area where leakage was present was where the filter was located. Granted, I was there when the tet was done. If you would like, I can contatct the shop and ask specifics about the test.

In addition, in speaking with the mechainc, he was very baffled as to why the code was coming back. As a guess, he said it could be the purge valve, but then the purge valve would carry their own fault code p0445 if I am not mistaken.

By electrical issues, are you referring to ground fault, loose connection?

I have the shop manual for the 2004 suzuki xl-7. I plan on doing some diagnostics on the PCM and looking for loose wiring.

Understand. I am on my way to do a diagonostic now. I have seen on this forum where a simple test can be conducted to determine the voltage from the PCM. According to this forum and the shop manual (which are basically the same) the C51-2-18 terminal should exhibit a 10 to 14 Volt reading.

The steps are outline below. Keep in mind this is without the use of what the manufacture calls a Suzuki scan tool. I guess they figure not everyone will have that scan tool. I know I don't and I have priced one and they are quite expensive.

So in detail the steps from the manual are as follows.

A) Remove ECM cover and disconnect connectors from ECM with the ignition switch turned off.
B) Check for proper connection to vent valve at C51-2-18 terminal.
C) If OK, measure voltage at C51-2-18 terminal of ECM connector disconnected with ignition switch turned On.

The voltage should between 10-14 V.

Regarding my initial question, should there be leakage around the filter?

By-the-way, I really appreciate all the responses.

Being a mechanical engineer, I have diagnosed and solved some very intricate problems on my car which the dealer could not solve. Put simply, in the past, I showed them how to fix my car.

This problem here has me a little stumped.

Hello Saturntech9 and ASEMaster6371.

I have some interesting news that I think is the culprit for the check engine light. Here are some particulars.

1. Conducted the voltage check on the wire harness for the C51-2-18 terminal location. Yesterday I had to go out and get me a new multimeter because the old one I was using was cheap and I believe I fried the circuitry inside of it doing some high power stuff. Most likely I blew a fuse inside of the darn thing. Anyways I hooked up the new multimeter leads to the C51-2-18 teminal and grounded everything and I got a voltage reading of zero (0). So there is no confusion, I had the ingition switch turned to ON. Reading was 0 volts. Should of been 10 to 14 volts.

2. Looked at another terminal to make sure I was using the new multimeter correctly and I got a proper voltage reading for that particular terminal. So multimeter was working correctly.

3. Decided to look up under the car where the evaporator canister is located along with the solenoid valve. Looked at the electrical connection where the wire was going into the connector that plugged into the solenoid valve. In past when I purchased the car, I noticed that these wires were exposed and I taped up this area fairly well with black tape. I unwrapped the black tape and there it was. A BROKEN WIRE. Yes this wire is the same wire that goes to the C51-2-18 terminal and it is light purple with a red stripe. The wire is completely separated. I have about an inch of wire coming out of the connector and I need to splice that to the remaining wire.

4. I did look at the old solenoid valve I have an the resistance was 27 ohms, and the manual states is should be 28 to 30 The new valve read 26.3 ohms. Most likely the old valve is still functional.

5. I fixed the broken wire by using a crimp section. The check engine light ceased coming on and I am finally rid of the dreaded P0449 code.

I would like to thank both of you for your inputs and most of all your professionalism in helping me solve this problem.

Enjoy your New Years and God Bless.

Phil