Battery or Starter, Relay?

Tiny
ELLISONE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Car has starting problems after replacing battery and positive terminal end System showed charging rate at 14.5V while running and the battery was at 12.75V before starting it that morning. Car ran and started fine for a day at which time later that night it had slow start then the next morning no start but quickly started after just being connected to another battery for a min or two. When first battery was replaced there was a lot of corrosion around positive post which is why I replaced positive cable end could problem be in one of these areas like the positive cable, crank sensor, computer or possibly the starter recently bought car and I suspect this is reason it was up for sale since this has happened three times so far and same thing happens only needs to be hooked to another battery for a min and starts right up
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Wednesday, September 23rd, 2015 AT 9:47 AM

19 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Start with a load test of the battery, check terminals at starter and if all is ok there get the starter out. Here is a guide to help us get started with the starter removal instructions and relay locations in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

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Wednesday, September 23rd, 2015 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
DSCHINBE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My first question is: I had my starter replaced approx. 1 1/2 weeks ago. Afterward I noticed a 'scratching' noise when I start the engine. The mechanic told me the flywheel probably had bumps of grit built up between some of the teeth and the new starter will over time 'clean them out and the noise will go away. Another mechanic told me that the first mechanic should have shimmed the new starter to keep it from hitting incorrectly on the flywheel. I'm not sure who to believe and I don't want to do damage to something because of an improper starter being installed.

My second question is: A few months ago I had all 4 motor/transmission mounts replaced and the bearings replaced. Afterward my car continued to 'jump' when I start it and put it into gear. I assumed replacing the mounts would correct that problem since that was the issue I mentioned to the mechanics when I took it into their shop in the first place. When I took it back they said my idling was running fast upon start up and I needed to let it warm up to a slower idle before engaging the engine. I tried that but it seems to take a very long time (several minutes) before it even begins to slow down a little bit. We don't have this problem with either of our other cars so I don't understand why my car has begun to do this. It wasn't a problem until a few months before having the mounts and bearings replaced. What might be causing it to idle so fast and take so long to slow down? Tapping the accelerator doesn't help either.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
I would have to hear the starter to be sure, but chances are it needs shimmed. As far as the idle, what are the temps where you are located?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DSCHINBE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I'm outside of Tampa, FL so it has been in the 80's during the day.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
It is normal to an extent for the idle to remain a little high when the vehicle is first started. A couple minutes is normal. If it exceeds that, you may have a vacuum leak or the idle air control valve may be going bad. As far as hitting the gas to lower the RPM's, that doesn't work on fuel injected engines. That was to shut the choke on a carburated engine.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BGAINER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 187,000 MILES
Nissan No Starter: Good running 2000 Altima GLE. Left trunk open - got a jump. At Advanced Auto Parts store tested battery, which needed to be replaced. When battery replaced, discovered connections to battery corroded -no good. Received temporary fix as no mechanics available on Sunday. End of day car won't start. Tow man affirmed connections to battery no good. Can't jump, must tow. Next day, mechanic reports just coincidence - real problem not getting fuel. Checks fuel pump which is in good working order. Checks fuel delivery to filters - no problem. Mechanic says could be many different problems - costly to ascertain, not worth it -advises to junk car.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
If the vehicle is in good shape, why junk it. If there is good fuel pressure and you get spark to the engine, it should run. Were the battery cables replaced? Does the starter engage and crank the engine?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
56R73G80J
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 NISSAN ALTIMA
How to remove starter.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Disconnect battery, if your radio has a security code make sure that you know it as you will have to use it to get the radio working after the battery has been disconnected. remove main starter cable from starter solenoid and pull off small push on solenoid wire also on the starter solenoid, undo the two attach bolts and withdraw starter.

This guide will help walk you through

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MR E
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1994 NISSAN ALTIMA
I have a great deal of experience and my dad retired as a diesel engine mechanic. I've replaced brakes, mufflers, shocks, starters, heater cores, radiators, alternators, water pumps, etc. Etc. On both domestic and imports.

However even getting to the mounting bolts for this nissan starter seems to be a physical trial at best. I am SURE I was engineered so the home mechanic would NOT be able to do the job! I even have the typical Haynes and chiltons manuals, What they say and the diagrams are very misleading. The main challenge is to get to the mounting bolts! Any help you give is greatly appreciated!
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
1998-99

Disconnect battery ground cable.
Disconnect starter wiring from starter.
Remove starter retaining bolts and the starter.
Reverse procedure to install

I believe the bolts are under the hood, below the air filter assembly. There are 2 14 mm bolts.

Roy
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MR E
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Mr. E SCREAMS! Yes everyone says that much! Sounds real simple. However the bolts are nearly impossible to get to. That is the challenge! Have you ever done this on this car? How do you get to the bolts! I've done much car repair work. This is the worse design I have seen in over 30 years! PLEASE ANYONE who answers this one please answer from personal experience ONLY! Not from any of the manuals, I read them all and it's all crappola!
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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I have done dozens and only speak from expierence. You have to remove the airfilter assembly and yes, you can do it with patience. It sounds like that is something you dont have much of.

Take a breathe and take your time. A human put it in and the same will take it out.

Roy
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MR E
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
As I said my Father retired as a mechanic and at age 55 I have done much work on import and domestic autos myself, in the freezing ten degree below zero weather, outdoors, in Ohio. In situations where it was literally fix the car or die!

I have more patience than a Beverly Hills Plastic Surgeon! Heh heh heh!

Anyway, I already removed the air filter assembly before I came to this website to ask the question. (However, I need help and you should be fair on this point, this step in removing the air filter stuff is not mentioned in any manuals and I am not being critical just pointing out that in your original post you did not mention this step either. Correct? I'm just asking.)

Now the main issue is being able to reach these two bolts holding the starter in, because you can hardly see either of them and doing it strictly by feel (which I have done so on many other jobs) just is not working in this case.)

Also the 1994 Altima setup seems different from other model years, at least from the pics I've seen in some manuals. Perhaps I am wrong on that point.

BUT it does not matter since you have done DOZENS of 1994 Altima starter-endectomies exactly how do you get to these bolts. And while we are at it is this really a one person job? Because getting the new one in while trying to thread some bolts blindly would seem to be interesting to say the least.

Yes a HUMAN put it in, however the engine may have not been in the car when the started was attached to it! So.I was wondering does one have to remove the entire hood and climb on top of the engine in order to get at the starter bolts for the 1994 Altima? Please explain exactly all the steps and any tricks you used in your dozen times of doing a 1994 Altima started removal and replacement job. I do REALLY do greatly appreciate your help, and I follow instructions well! I have been patiently working at this on and off over a month and using my spare car in the meantime.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Just to add my 2 bob's worth. When faced with tight access like this, often using 3/8" drive is easier as 1/2" drive is so bulky, and a trick I often use is to use a universal joint taped with electrical tape, this helps hold the joint from flopping at that critical moment, but still allows it to flex, and I also magnetize the socket to help hold bolts and nuts.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MR E
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks mhpautos!

I appreciate all the help and suggestions I can get. As I said I have replace many parts in the past 40 years working on cars and trucks. This one really is quite the challenge.

Have you actually replace this EXACT starter in this model car? HAS ANYONE OUT THERE this EXACT starter in this model car?

I'm still waiting on confirmation from ASEMaster6371 since he said he has done dozens I am hoping this 1994 Nissan Altima GXE is one of those dozens and that he will provide more exacting details on how it is exactly done, leaving out no steps.

One thing for certain, anyone who had to do this would NOT forget the sense of TRIUMPH and ACCOMPLISHMENT over this daunting feat! I'm convinced Nissan had the started attached to the engine before putting the engine in the car and engineered this to be difficult purposely. Having said all of that.

It appears that additional "plumbing" may need to be removed and not just all the air cleaner stuff (which I already removed as well as some parts under the car). Removing the hood to gain better access does not really seem like it with help, though I do not mind doing so.

So how about it? HAS ANYONE OUT THERE on this forum replaced this EXACT starter in this EXACT model car?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHELDONLAWRENCE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Mr.E
Hey so I own a 1996 Nissan Altima and I just bought it about 6 months ago for real cheap so I knew that it would have a few issues. It was leaking oil because the valve cover gasket was blown and antifreeze because there were cracks in the top plastic part of the radiator right underneath the radiator cap on the inside.I fixed those issues. But oil had gotten to my spark plugs because of the gasket leak so I got the oil out and replaced the plugs. Right before I got the new plugs it started just randomly dieing on me. I could not figure out what was going on I ended up replacing the cam shaft sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Then finally it would start but anytime I put it in gear it died which ended up being the distributor button on the inside so I replaced that and the cap. It ran beautiful for a couple months and now I'm having an issue starting it again. Banged on the starter and it started.I replaced the starter and OMYGOD u are so right I feel your pain. I did it by myself and its ridiculous it was almost literally impossible to do without any help but I got it replaced. Now I'm getting lights but no crank no start nothing.I have no clue what to do now. Any ideas?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
Hey SHELDON,

It sounds like you have the wires installed wrong on the starter, can you please recheck them and get back to us?

Best, Ken
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)

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