CVT transmission replacement?

Do I have to take the sub frame all the way down or out? Do the radiator have to come out? Both axle or one, how much time do it take to do the job?

Do you think pulling it out the top is faster than from the bottom? Will I have to take less stuff a lose if I do the engine and trans together?

I had purchased a used Honda in 2004 (55K miles at that time and 3 year old)

I always used to have jerks while driving but never researched. Now that it happens more often at 122K miles I took it to dealer and dealer has recommended transmission replace.

Few questions:

- if I keep driving, what are my risks? Can the vehicle come to a sudden halt in middle of driving on highway? What does the vehicle do when the transmission totally fails and car in motion?

- If I keep changing transmission fluid, how long can I go? Vehicle works perfectly just jerks more often while sudden acceleration

- What is the disadvantage of doing transmission replace with a local guy rather than honda dealer

- honda had a recall but now I am over their extended warranty period they dont want to fix it. Is there any wa?Y I can get them to pay me atleast a part of the repair costs

I own a 2001 Accord with a 2.3L and 85,000 miles. The transmission started having problems around 78,000, I found out that Honda actually extended the warranty to 7 yrs / 100,000 miles so I got it replaced for free.
My question is whether this is going to be a reoccurring problem with this car or if Honda just made some of the 00 and 01 Accords with bad transmissions.

Honda dealership provided quote of $3,500 to replace transmission. This is based on two codes they retrieved upon inspection: P1739 - 3rd gear pressure switch failure and P0780 - problems with shift control system. I contacted a transmission repair shop in the area for a ballpark figure over the phone and they indicated it would be approx $1,600 but could be more if there is damage to the outside casing. Are the codes indicative of transmission failure and the need for a replacement? Any idea why the significant price variance between the two. Is there any benefit to having Honda do the work rather than a transmission repair company (they both offer 12 mos / 12,000 mile warranties).

I got check engine light last month and had the transmission rebuild after consulting a few mechanics in my area. I got the car back 2 weeks ago and it has been running smooth until yesterday. With the cold start, the car is idling too fast - it goes till 3000 rpm w/o giving any acceleration. It doesn't do that when the car has been driven for a while and is warm. I called the mechanic who fixed my transmission (I have a 1 year warranty on it) and he says this has nothing to do with what he changed. But my car never had a problem like this before and I'm concerned. Could you tell if this problem could have been caused while rebuilding the transmission?

I have a similar problem and it is worse when cold or just started. My 99 accord v6 slips and shifts hard into 2nd gear. I have been told that it could be the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid. I'm going to change my solenoid out and I will see if that helps the cold, hard shift. Hopes this helps

CAR: Honda 200 Accord, V6, Auto transmission, sedan

Experience: 40 yrs auto & mechanical although not on Hondas.

After replacing boots, ball joints - Pressing axle into transmission - I'm curious & concerned about process of and amount of force required to properly reinsert axle (cv joint cup axle stub). Into transmission.

Issue/Question:

In process of replacing CV Boots (Inner & outer), upper & lower ball joints, also turning rotors (both sides).

Present state:

Driver side - ready to reinsert transmission side cv joint cup tranny axle stub into transmission. Have replaced aforementioned parts, inspected shaft & cv joint all is well. At present, have axle stub partially inserted into driver's side of transmission. Have encountered the need for considerable force to allow me to continue to press axle stub into transmission (currently axle has slide about half an inch to an inch but does not allow me to push further without what appears to be considerable force - ie firmly hit the axle on the rotor end with a hammer) Is this normal? Alignment of the cv joint cup splines in transmission.?

Issue/Questions: When removing axle I didn't mark or otherwise make location indicators/note when removed the transaxle & inner cv joint cup/axle stub from tranny. Now reinserting cup & mini shaft into tranny.

I'm assuming axle shaft rotational location is not position dependent (other than merely splines aligned to allow shaft to be completely seated in the tranny - not like properly aligning a distributor where there is a 'specific' spot/alignment? - Ie. I can insert axle shaft without any concern or need to match specific location/spline in a specific location in transmission receptacle. Am I correct?

Second question/concern: As previously stated, inspected & cleaned transmission side of transaxle's cup & mini shaft's spines- all is fine no damage or noticeable wear whatsoever. I didn't notice any sort of alignment keyway or positioning determinant. However, as/when I attempt to slide transaxle-cv joint cup-mini axle side into transmission process appears (to me - and I'm unfamiliar w-Honda front wheel cars & thus this process- specifically, the normal amount of force required to reinsert shaft; although, I've worked on SAAB front wheel drive cars for 30+ yrs they slide in easily and the shaft bolts into place unlike this Honda)

Should this process require hitting the transaxle/rotor end firmly with say a 5 lb hammer/small sledge a couple of times to force axle so the retaining ring is in a 'locked position'?

There is a what appears to be a 'ring retainer' on the inner portion of the tranny cv joint axle cup's axle shaft stub. I assume the axle slides in freely for the first inch or so - until it reaches the ring then as you attempt to continue to fully seat the axle into its proper location/depth the ring is forced to 'collapse' briefly until it clears/slips into a 'locking position' in the tranny at which time the shaft can/will rotate by hand as needed to allow an alignment of the splines to align and then continue to be pressed/slid/pushed completely into axles's fully inserted proper operating/driving location. Is my assumption correct?

I assume once the axle is slid to the point where the retainer ring is inside/beyond the 'locking point' and the splines aligned to allow continued insertion very little pressure is required (meaning the hammer blows/firm pressure is only required to get the retainer ring to collapse slightly thereby allowing shaft to slide in to its normal seated position). Furthermore, that the axle will then need to be turned until the splines will then align thereby allowing the axle to be pushed farther in until properly and fully seated. Correct?

Do I appear to understand this process? Am I correct? Or, does what appears to be a considerable force (the need to hit with hammer to drive axle in) an indicator there is a problem or that there is an alignment issue I need to understand and respond to immediately by properly aligning axle? I don't wish to damage axle or transmission. Am concerned something may be wrong.

I will need the torque specs for all of the related bolts/nuts etc. Where can I find a complete list of the torque specs for the front end, including sub frame? (I replaced a struts and bushings etc which I wish to torque properly before considering the job complete.)

Thank you.

Alex

Ok. I will remove snap ring then either compress it or replace it.

However, the part of my question regarding axle/ spline alignment & insertion was not addressed or answered. Please address it. Will the splines automatically align thereby allow me to completely insert & properly seat axle OR is the a special /specific rotational alignment I need to concern myself with or can it be slid in anyway the splines allow?

Also where can I find torque specs for the front end bolts & nuts.

Thank you

HI I have been through numerous sensors on this vehicle from tps to map sensors and cylider position sensors and transmission keeps entering limp mode we do not have auto zones here where I am and no one in town will scan the car for free it is getting crazy expensive to keep retrieving the codes and every time I have changed these sensors another one comes up and then another one and every time throwing the transmission into limp mode I'm beggining to believe that with the high milage on this car that the tranny itself is failing and entering into limp mode or is it actually these faulty sensors throwing the tranny into limp mode?
Muchly appreciated I tell everyone about you guys You guys are Great Thank you! As soon as I can donate I will guys! Just got a bit of a cash cow on my hands right now