2003 Ford Windstar Repair Question
Abs c1185 trouble code
Both the ABS(Yellow) & Brake(Red) Lights come on. Rear Brakes were cleaned by using a solvent, not sure what it was. Then they were rinsed with water & air dried. This was all done with a high pressure hose. Then the rear brakes were adjusted. Front pads were replaced after 1 mile of driving, the lights turned on & the van was returned to the repair shop. Everything was rechecked & the tech was not sure about what was happening. Advised me to drive van for a few days to break in the pads. The light went back on, I returned back to the repair shop & he ran a scan & it showed the above code(C1185). He agian was unsure, so he replaced pads again. The light continues to come on & off. So I took the van to the dealer where I was told that I needed to replace the ECU which I mentioned in the prior message. The van currently has 36K & this was the first set of replacement pad & rear adjust done. Do you have any advise?
What's the status? I have the same exact problem with my Windstar in addition to the HCU. Is it necessary to replace those or is there an easy fix? :?:
The problem started approx. 4 weeks ago. Both the ABS and the Brake Light come on immediately when the vehicle is warm. Sometimes they won't come on at all when the vehicle is cold. I brought to a Ford Dealer and they hooked up their computer and diagnosed that the ECU and HCU need replacement. At first I tried cleaning the rear brakes and adjusting them. No luck. I did a visual inspection on the ABS sensors and they appeared in good shape. I'm stumped?! :?
What's the status? I have the same exact problem with my Windstar in addition to the HCU. Is it necessary to replace those or is there an easy fix? :?:[/quote:090e6ca0be]
Sorry I didn't reply right away. (work issues) I drove the van as you suggested (slowly accelerating to 25 mph and hard acceleration to 25 mph or more). The lights did not come on. However my wife drove the van in the rain and went through a few water puddles and the lights came on. So the acceleration test did not cause the lights to come on but going through water puddles did. So now, the lights come on: 1. if the car has been driven a long time. Restarted and driven again without a chance to cooldown. 2. Driven through some water puddles.
Sorry I didn't reply right away. (work issues) I drove the van as you suggested (slowly accelerating to 25 mph and hard acceleration to 25 mph or more). The lights did not come on. However my wife drove the van in the rain and went through a few water puddles and the lights came on. So the acceleration test did not cause the lights to come on but going through water puddles did. So now, the lights come on: 1. if the car has been driven a long time. Restarted and driven again without a chance to cooldown. 2. Driven through some water puddles. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Hi, my name is Jeff from Charlotte, NC (Nascar capital) and I'm a first time user. I just happened to cross this thread and joined so that I could give you my .02 cents. I have a 2003 Windstar SE Sport with the same exact problem. I have been trying to figure this out for quite a while now. I have not been able to figure out if its heat or speed that triggers the lights to illuminate. It's always both yellow (ABS) and red (e-brake) lights. The problem is sort of intermitent. I have changed the front pads and inspected all the sensors visually and wiped the sensors clean with a mild detergent. A co-worker and I went to the dealership together and bought the same vans (mine green, his silver). He has not had this problem. I have already replaced the alternator and his is fine. Mine has less mileage and stays in the garage. His stays outside and is neglected, yet, he has had no service repairs since the purchase. I believe the vehicles were assembled in Canada. The bottom line is we all share the same problem. I am sure there are many many more out there too. We need to figure out what is causing these lights to illuminate. Lets all stick with this thread until we resolve this issue. My brakes are good, new pads and brake lines bled. The master cylinder fluid level is full. There are no leaks anywhere. Ah, just thought of something. Does anyones brake pedal make a creeking (scrunching) noise when depressed. Mine does and it has nothing to do with the pedel forward adjustment. Does anybody elses brake pedal make scrunchy noises when pumped? Maybe it's a clue. Lets keep thinking and updating. It's 4:30am and I need some sleep. I shall check back later on. Good night.
My name is Dave, I live in NY I haven't had the opportunity to replace my front brakes yet but they do need it. I will try what is suggested and remove the 2 wire connection on the side of the reservoir and I'll get back to you. Everyone, keep this forum updated if anybody has any luck. The dealer makes it sound like there's no choice but to replace the ECU and the HCU. I have another question for anybody who might know, will this cause the vehicle to fail a NYS Inspection? A guy I know who works for Jiffy Lube says it won't fail because of the lights. True or Not? :?
Hi, This in Jeff again. This morning I did as Steve suggested and disconnected the two wire switch mounted on the brake master cylinder FORWARD of the resevoir. Had to remove part of the air filter assembly to get my fat forearm in there to disconnect the switch. Any how, the switch is disconnected. Took the van for a few mile ride with heavy acceleration and braking. Came home and got coffee and cooled van in garage. Went back out and drove 5 to 6 more miles using same driving conditions. So far I can report that the lights have NOT come back on since I disconnected the switch. I am not excited. I will do some hiway driving this afternoon and report back. Steve, is this connection related to the low fluid level indicator in the resevoir or something? I have a brake squeel in the front passenger side that can be heard at low speeds. I knew I should have replaced original with ceramic pads. I will check back later. Have a great day. BTW: Conditions: HOT 90 + degrees, hazy and humid.
I drove about 30 more miles today both on interstate and local. I reached speeds of 75+ MPH. The ABS and e-brake lights never came on. Also, as you said, the cruise control no longer works. When the engine is not running and the key is turned to ignition, the lights come on and go back off. When the engine is cranked, the lights come on and go back off. I understand that as long as the ABS light is not lit when driving, it is functioning properly. Is this true? Is there something that needs to be replaced? Do you have any ideas what is causing this problem? Do you want me to leave the connector seperated or put it back together? What do you suggest that i try next? Please advise. Thanks
Still driving with the switch in front of the resevoir disconnected. No cruise control-no ABS or e-brabe lights. Have driven at least 100 miles over the weekend. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.
Dave, If you or french bull disconnected the switch on side of the resevoir, please report back with an update. We all would like to resolve this this issue.
One more thing, look at the switches below and side of the resevoir and check for wetness. Report if the wires are wet from a brake fluid leak.