Engine will not start

Yes I have a multimeter how do I test it crankshaft sensor? Thanks for the reply

Well I replaced the crank sensor without testing. (Figured while I was under there I could R&R it) No start. The crank sensor was not the culprit. Where do I go from here? Thanks

Well I changed. The module and my Saturn started right up thanks for the help.

What would cause my Sc1 saturn not to start? Battery is fine, all dash lights come on, radio come. There is no clicking from the starter, not even the motor will turn over.

My car won't start. I have power and it can turn over but immediatly stalls. We changed the fuel filter and plugs and wires that were mucky. Thinking of the fuel pump but it has perfect pressure. Not sure about a head gasket so we took it in to the shop!

Codes-B2960, B2958, U1000- something with the BCM.(I've been reading your site)

As well the work order shows u1016-no communication with ABS, ?Trans, Engine CC power management mode, engine stall

Does this make sense to anyone?
Not yet diagnosed by the shop and hoping we can fix it ourselves.

Hey car pros!
After too long a process, the car infact had to have the passlock sensor replaced and the cylinder changed as it was worn. I guess the stearing colom being loose and a bad key made the cylinder wear.
You guys made great on your advice. I did have a dealership reprogram and replace the parts.

Thanks again.

I tried to start my ca this morning, and when I turned over the ignition the only thing that happened was all the lights on my dash board sarted flashing, and there is a relay under the driver side dash that has a bunch ofwires going into, woud start making a ringing noise and vibrating, then the fuel pump fuse would click also, with a vibration, meanwhile the engine wont turn over, not even a single click from the starter, tur the key and I get to hear nayure not what I want, anyways, I called a friend and he said that it might have ben the starter stuck so try rocking it, and that didt work, ten he said to try to bypass the starter cylinoid which didnt work, so I out of idea and help would be great

I bought this car not runninI checked all the fuses with a test light and found the body comp fuse blown replaced it. The car would not start prior to this. So far I have checked compression 140psi in 1and4 and 130 psi in 2and3 the cps tested 836 for resistance and the ects is the brass on not the plastic however I haven't replaced it. There is spark at all the spark plugs. The fuel pump will cycle when the ignition is turned on and I have pressure at the fuel rail.

It acts like it wants to start almost like a flooded engine would be however the plugs are realitivly dry

Would bad or stale gas cause something like this it was also backfiring through the intake

I have gotten the car to start it took it being floored and ran very rough. I took the coils and ecm off and cleaned the connections and had the O2 sensor unplugged. It only ran a few minutes and then stalled and went back to the trying to start again almost getting there but not catching and running. The SES light is on now so I can actually try and gets codes. Also the comperssion tester is old and might not be accurate and the mileage is in kilometers not miles. When it started there was alot of black smoke when it was running rough it almost sounded like a miss and when I pulled the #1 plug wire it stalled and when back to not starting.

Ok so I have got it too run and I am getting code p0340 misfire in cylinder 4 by the scanner. However if I pull the #4 wire off the car will run the same and if I pull the #1 wire off the car will run the same. So I have changed the plugs and wires there was a bad arc on #2 still the same cleaned the contact on the ICm and mounting point checked all fuses still no spark on #1and #4 swapped coils and attaching bolts with #2and#3 car will run the same and still no spark on #1and4 last night I started it in the dark to look for any arcing could not see any. Pulled the plug wires off the #1and#4 coil towers there is no arcing between the two towers. So I know there is no spark at the coil could a CPS cause one side to fail and is there anyway of testing it? And is there anyway of testing the ICM short of replacing the unit it self I found a troubleshooting guide for testin for shorts between the PCm and the ICM with some voltage checks. If it were a groinging issue for the #1and#4 coil could I just ground it directly with a jumper? I have kinda went through everything short of changing ou the ICM as they are expensive also I changed the intake gasket manifold and the ECTS